DIY: Headlight LED's and blackout

igotcabada · 03-08-2011, 01:55 PM

ok anyone around charlotte that wants to do this for me? i dont have the cojones

Dembflyr · 03-12-2011, 09:13 AM

All finished!!

But with one problem.

Big J ya jinxed me dude. I have one friggen Led that isn't working. Oh well, at least I know how to get them apart now.

Plus it'll give me a chance to redo the demon eye. Not real happy with how that came out.

Skorch · 03-21-2011, 01:33 AM

Hey guys, I ran into an issue with my LEDs. A couple days after it was all finished I blew a fuse. It was the 10 amp fuse labeled 'clearance' in the hidden fuse box behind the battery. I replaced it, and it blew again in a couple days. I decided to replace it with a 15 amp fuse but it also blew after a while. I don't know what could be causing this.. Any ideas? Do you guys think it would be safe to try a 20 amp fuse there?

Dembflyr · 03-21-2011, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skorch

Hey guys, I ran into an issue with my LEDs. A couple days after it was all finished I blew a fuse. It was the 10 amp fuse labeled 'clearance' in the hidden fuse box behind the battery. I replaced it, and it blew again in a couple days. I decided to replace it with a 15 amp fuse but it also blew after a while. I don't know what could be causing this.. Any ideas? Do you guys think it would be safe to try a 20 amp fuse there?

No. What ever you do, do not go with a bigger fuse. How did you wire your LED's?

Skorch · 03-21-2011, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dembflyr

No. What ever you do, do not go with a bigger fuse. How did you wire your LED's?

The LEDs are wired to the driving lights (side markers) inside the headlight. When the fuse blows neither the LEDs nor the side markers work.

Dembflyr · 03-21-2011, 11:49 AM

How long does it take to blow the fuse? If it happenss fairly quick then I would disconnect one headlight plug and see if it blows. If it doesn't blow then the problem is most likely in the other light.

LED's don't draw much current so I doubt that it is blowing the fuse because of the additional draw. That and the fact that you put a fuse that is 5a more and it still blew makes me think that there is a short somewhere.
If you just keep increasing the size of the fuse and there is a short, you will wind up with much bigger problems.

Skorch · 03-21-2011, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dembflyr

How long does it take to blow the fuse? If it happenss fairly quick then I would disconnect one headlight plug and see if it blows. If it doesn't blow then the problem is most likely in the other light.

LED's don't draw much current so I doubt that it is blowing the fuse because of the additional draw. That and the fact that you put a fuse that is 5a more and it still blew makes me think that there is a short somewhere.
If you just keep increasing the size of the fuse and there is a short, you will wind up with much bigger problems.

It takes a couple days to blow the fuse. For instance I replaced it on Friday and noticed the lights were not turning on on Sunday. I'm not sure how to even go about diagnosing the issue since it takes a while for it to blow..

Dembflyr · 03-21-2011, 02:05 PM

Then I'd recommend that you use a different power source with a dedicated fuse. That way you can at least isolate the LED's from the parking light circuit.

If you use a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) relay you can get the power directly from the battery and still have them turn on with the parking lights.

You can get the relays at any auto part store for about $5 each.

Let me know if you are going to give that a try and I'll post a schematic if you need one.

KyleBucket · 03-30-2011, 02:48 PM

This is a great DIY. I plan on doing this with my father (nuclear electrician) and I'm hoping this holds up. The only thing that is scary is the oven. I might look into the heat gun method. Any recommendations though on things that you MUST concentrate on? Oven doesn't scare me so much but the fact if the cardboard or whatever isn't wet enough, **** goes wrong, etc. I just feel like the heat gun is more controllable. Btw, did you clear anything after you painted and how many layers?

Dembflyr · 03-30-2011, 04:46 PM

I would say that the oven is less scary then a heat gun. The heat gun directs a lot of heat in a small area.

I put some wet cardboard and a wet towel in a pan that was big enough to hold the light. Every oven is different so I would start at about 225 degrees for about 10-12 minutes. If that doesn't get it to come apart then try going up 10 degrees and 2 minutes. I found that mine came apart fairly easily at 240 degrees and 15 minutes.

Make sure that no part of the light touches any part the oven and you are good to go.

As far as paint, I had a local body shop spray my rings for me. I've never been good at painting. They used my paint and only charged me $75.

cperusa · 03-30-2011, 06:21 PM

I tried both heat gun and oven method. I think oven method is better if you ensure no part of the light touches the oven. I think you are more likely to take the lights out early and put it back in a little longer. If that happens, my suggestion would be to keep the temperature same and bake it longer.
I used 2 coats of paint. But no clear. I think that should be enough since it is not being exposed to the elements.

KyleBucket · 03-30-2011, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dembflyr

I would say that the oven is less scary then a heat gun. The heat gun directs a lot of heat in a small area.

I put some wet cardboard and a wet towel in a pan that was big enough to hold the light. Every oven is different so I would start at about 225 degrees for about 10-12 minutes. If that doesn't get it to come apart then try going up 10 degrees and 2 minutes. I found that mine came apart fairly easily at 240 degrees and 15 minutes.

Make sure that no part of the light touches any part the oven and you are good to go.

As far as paint, I had a local body shop spray my rings for me. I've never been good at painting. They used my paint and only charged me $75.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cperusa

I tried both heat gun and oven method. I think oven method is better if you ensure no part of the light touches the oven. I think you are more likely to take the lights out early and put it back in a little longer. If that happens, my suggestion would be to keep the temperature same and bake it longer.
I used 2 coats of paint. But no clear. I think that should be enough since it is not being exposed to the elements.

Thanks you guys. Also, the only thing I didn't see Caravan mention (at least at the top) was where and what type of sealant to get? I know it's a special headlight sealant.

Dembflyr · 03-30-2011, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyleBucket

Thanks you guys. Also, the only thing I didn't see Caravan mention (at least at the top) was where and what type of sealant to get? I know it's a special headlight sealant.

No need for new sealant. There is plenty in there. Just make sure that you push the old sealant back in the channel while it is still a bit warm. I have had my lights apart twice and no leaks using the old.

dev929 · 04-10-2011, 03:09 PM

Nice write up! No way I could try this myself. Anyone in Houston doing this for cash?

Javier · 04-24-2011, 12:16 AM

Hi. I'm thinking of doing the same to my headlights but my numbers indicate that I should be using 200 OHM resistors at 1 watt. The LEDs are runnung at 26mA not the 20mA that they are designed for so the current draws .762 watts. Therefore you should us at least a 1 watt resistor not 1/4 or 1/2. My numbers are as follows: 12 v devided .060mA (3 leds in series) = 200 ohms. Please let me know what you think. I just do not want to be opening these headlights once a year. The way I see it the current is greater than the resistor can handle and they may burn up.

03-12-2011, 09:13 AM	#122 (permalink)
Dembflyr Track Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 886 Drives: G37S Sedan Rep Power: 16	All finished!! But with one problem. Big J ya jinxed me dude. I have one friggen Led that isn't working. Oh well, at least I know how to get them apart now. Plus it'll give me a chance to redo the demon eye. Not real happy with how that came out. __________________ 2012 G37S Sedan 6MT - Project Practicality 2009-6MT-Sport/Touring-Dembflyr's Journal-TT Build Thread-CAR IS SOLD

03-21-2011, 01:33 AM	#123 (permalink)
Skorch Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 469 Drives: 2012 370Z Rep Power: 540	Hey guys, I ran into an issue with my LEDs. A couple days after it was all finished I blew a fuse. It was the 10 amp fuse labeled 'clearance' in the hidden fuse box behind the battery. I replaced it, and it blew again in a couple days. I decided to replace it with a 15 amp fuse but it also blew after a while. I don't know what could be causing this.. Any ideas? Do you guys think it would be safe to try a 20 amp fuse there? __________________ '12 370Z + Sport \| Stillen Gen3 Intakes \| Stillen UD Pulley \| Motordyne M370 \| FI Exhaust \| FI HFCs \| 4.08 Gears \| Uprev tuned

03-21-2011, 11:49 AM	#126 (permalink)
Dembflyr Track Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 886 Drives: G37S Sedan Rep Power: 16	How long does it take to blow the fuse? If it happenss fairly quick then I would disconnect one headlight plug and see if it blows. If it doesn't blow then the problem is most likely in the other light. LED's don't draw much current so I doubt that it is blowing the fuse because of the additional draw. That and the fact that you put a fuse that is 5a more and it still blew makes me think that there is a short somewhere. If you just keep increasing the size of the fuse and there is a short, you will wind up with much bigger problems. __________________ 2012 G37S Sedan 6MT - Project Practicality 2009-6MT-Sport/Touring-Dembflyr's Journal-TT Build Thread-CAR IS SOLD

03-21-2011, 02:05 PM	#128 (permalink)
Dembflyr Track Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 886 Drives: G37S Sedan Rep Power: 16	Then I'd recommend that you use a different power source with a dedicated fuse. That way you can at least isolate the LED's from the parking light circuit. If you use a Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) relay you can get the power directly from the battery and still have them turn on with the parking lights. You can get the relays at any auto part store for about $5 each. Let me know if you are going to give that a try and I'll post a schematic if you need one. __________________ 2012 G37S Sedan 6MT - Project Practicality 2009-6MT-Sport/Touring-Dembflyr's Journal-TT Build Thread-CAR IS SOLD

03-30-2011, 02:48 PM	#129 (permalink)
KyleBucket Base Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: DE/NJ Age: 35 Posts: 160 Drives: '14 Mercedes CLA 250 Rep Power: 16	This is a great DIY. I plan on doing this with my father (nuclear electrician) and I'm hoping this holds up. The only thing that is scary is the oven. I might look into the heat gun method. Any recommendations though on things that you MUST concentrate on? Oven doesn't scare me so much but the fact if the cardboard or whatever isn't wet enough, **** goes wrong, etc. I just feel like the heat gun is more controllable. Btw, did you clear anything after you painted and how many layers? __________________

03-08-2011, 01:55 PM	#121 (permalink)
igotcabada Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Charlotte Posts: 104 Drives: 10 Nissan 370Z 40th Rep Power: 15	ok anyone around charlotte that wants to do this for me? i dont have the cojones

03-30-2011, 04:46 PM	#130 (permalink)
Dembflyr Track Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Indiana Posts: 886 Drives: G37S Sedan Rep Power: 16	I would say that the oven is less scary then a heat gun. The heat gun directs a lot of heat in a small area. I put some wet cardboard and a wet towel in a pan that was big enough to hold the light. Every oven is different so I would start at about 225 degrees for about 10-12 minutes. If that doesn't get it to come apart then try going up 10 degrees and 2 minutes. I found that mine came apart fairly easily at 240 degrees and 15 minutes. Make sure that no part of the light touches any part the oven and you are good to go. As far as paint, I had a local body shop spray my rings for me. I've never been good at painting. They used my paint and only charged me $75. __________________ 2012 G37S Sedan 6MT - Project Practicality 2009-6MT-Sport/Touring-Dembflyr's Journal-TT Build Thread-CAR IS SOLD

03-30-2011, 06:21 PM	#131 (permalink)
cperusa Base Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: houston, tx Posts: 7 Drives: '10 Nizzan 370z 40th Rep Power: 15	I tried both heat gun and oven method. I think oven method is better if you ensure no part of the light touches the oven. I think you are more likely to take the lights out early and put it back in a little longer. If that happens, my suggestion would be to keep the temperature same and bake it longer. I used 2 coats of paint. But no clear. I think that should be enough since it is not being exposed to the elements.

04-10-2011, 03:09 PM	#134 (permalink)
dev929 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 8 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 14	Nice write up! No way I could try this myself. Anyone in Houston doing this for cash? Bert_12Z likes this.

04-24-2011, 12:16 AM	#135 (permalink)
Javier Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 40 Drives: 09 nissan 370z Rep Power: 10138	LEDs Hi. I'm thinking of doing the same to my headlights but my numbers indicate that I should be using 200 OHM resistors at 1 watt. The LEDs are runnung at 26mA not the 20mA that they are designed for so the current draws .762 watts. Therefore you should us at least a 1 watt resistor not 1/4 or 1/2. My numbers are as follows: 12 v devided .060mA (3 leds in series) = 200 ohms. Please let me know what you think. I just do not want to be opening these headlights once a year. The way I see it the current is greater than the resistor can handle and they may burn up.

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