DIY: Fang Vents: Forced fresh air to your airbox

MeetJoeAsian · 02-09-2010, 05:08 PM

any idea how much of a temperature difference this mod makes in the winter time?

And also, how does this mod compare to short tube and CAI?

Modshack · 02-10-2010, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeetJoeAsian

any idea how much of a temperature difference this mod makes in the winter time?

And also, how does this mod compare to short tube and CAI?

Over stock, None as the OEM boxes are sealed to the radiator wall and pull air from outside the bay. Intake Air Temps (IAT's) will run 5-10 degrees over ambient typically, while rolling. That 5-10 degrees, as measured at the MAF, is mostly a function of the airbox and MAF being inside the bay. Both a Stillen G3 and my Custom short rams run roughly the same temps based on reports here. Open element short rams though typically will run 25 degrees+ over ambient. The hose will lower that a bit, but without completely shielding the filters they're still gonna suck a lot of engine bay heat. Mine are shielded and insulated so the impact there is minimal. During very cold weather I've seen the difference from ambient go to 2-3 degrees.

jtown82 · 03-17-2010, 01:02 AM

only thing i dont like is it looks like your sealing the ducting to the air box? making it the only way of air getting in. wont that basically make it have to suck through a straw to get air at idle and low speeds. though that doesnt seem like much but im pretty sure your hurting the performance through a good bit of the launching untill certain speeds are hit. ive seen setups like this and watched cars lose power because of that until certain speeds are pushing enough air in. have you actually had the car on a dyno with that setup? cool air is good an all. but it the engine is actually having to struggle to get the air its not helping. you need something to actually monitor air CFMs and see if its actually helping or hurting. but i could be wrong. but that happened to me and a few others on our grand prix bck when i had one. the intakes are very similiar to the Z other than only having one box.
we had places at the bottom of our front fascia perfect for ducting. but it turned out because of the length of tubing the engines were being starved of air.

Modshack · 03-17-2010, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtown82

only thing i dont like is it looks like your sealing the ducting to the air box? making it the only way of air getting in. wont that basically make it have to suck through a straw to get air at idle and low speeds. though that doesnt seem like much but im pretty sure your hurting the performance through a good bit of the launching untill certain speeds are hit. ive seen setups like this and watched cars lose power because of that until certain speeds are pushing enough air in. have you actually had the car on a dyno with that setup? cool air is good an all. but it the engine is actually having to struggle to get the air its not helping. you need something to actually monitor air CFMs and see if its actually helping or hurting. but i could be wrong. .

My airboxes are not connected/sealed to the inlets. Even if they were, the flanges are no smaller than the actual pass through ports to the OEM boxes.
My experiments on another similar design (sealed) on another car showed that the flow up dual 2.5" hoses was enough to pretty much eliminate any restriction at the airbox outlet, and actually show some positive pressure on a Magnehelic gauge..

bejan · 03-30-2010, 09:43 PM

Hey Modshack, did you get pack A or pack B for the stainless clamps on the website (Http://www.aircraftspruce.com) you provided?

+1 times as many times as I can for you by the way =]

Modshack · 03-30-2010, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bejan

Hey Modshack, did you get pack A or pack B for the stainless clamps on the website (Http://www.aircraftspruce.com) you provided?

+1 times as many times as I can for you by the way =]

Not sure what you mean by A or B......I used clamps I had laying around.....Just pick some up at Home Depot (Plumbing Dept) or your local hardware store. These are just standard stainless worm clamps. Be sure they'll handle 2.75" diameter...

bejan · 04-01-2010, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Not sure what you mean by A or B......I used clamps I had laying around.....Just pick some up at Home Depot (Plumbing Dept) or your local hardware store. These are just standard stainless worm clamps. Be sure they'll handle 2.75" diameter...

Perfect, Thanks!!

kevin1985912 · 04-05-2010, 04:15 PM

is there a chance for the water to get into the filters when it rains?

Modshack · 04-05-2010, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin1985912

is there a chance for the water to get into the filters when it rains?

No...The airspeed is not fast enough to carry water (other than a mist) up the tubes....I believe the airboxes have drains anyway...

jtown82 · 05-02-2010, 11:11 PM

had a chance to get any dyno numbers? esp say with a good fan blowing into the inlets to see the true difference in power gained with air rushing in.

Modshack · 05-02-2010, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtown82

had a chance to get any dyno numbers? esp say with a good fan blowing into the inlets to see the true difference in power gained with air rushing in.

Huh?......No...This is not a RAM AIR set-up. All it does is help cool the air charge coming into the filter area. Cooler IAT's usually result in more timing advance which equals more power. Doubt you could ever dupicate this on a Dyno...

Dr.Awkward · 05-03-2010, 12:42 AM

Think this would work to put air onto oil/dif coolers mounted in front of the wheel wells, would it be effective?

Modshack · 05-03-2010, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.Awkward

Think this would work to put air onto oil/dif coolers mounted in front of the wheel wells, would it be effective?

You could by cutting holes in this panel and ducting air into the area in front of the wheel liner:

Looks like there's already a mold mark for this! You'd also have to louver the front of the wheel liner to promote flow through...

Dr.Awkward · 05-03-2010, 12:10 PM

So make a vent that would move the air out into the wheel well, that might help keep the brakes cooler too.

Modshack · 05-03-2010, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr.Awkward

So make a vent that would move the air out into the wheel well, that might help keep the brakes cooler too.

For street use you'd get a better bang for the buck running the lines to the intake. There are simpler ways to duct air to the brakes..(Flaps on the lower control arms etc)

02-09-2010, 05:08 PM	#46 (permalink)
MeetJoeAsian Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 342 Drives: 350Z to G35c to 370Z Rep Power: 16	any idea how much of a temperature difference this mod makes in the winter time? And also, how does this mod compare to short tube and CAI? __________________ http://facebook.com/meetjoeasian

03-17-2010, 01:02 AM	#48 (permalink)
jtown82 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: southern Arkansas Posts: 158 Drives: 09 chicane yellow Z Rep Power: 15	only thing i dont like is it looks like your sealing the ducting to the air box? making it the only way of air getting in. wont that basically make it have to suck through a straw to get air at idle and low speeds. though that doesnt seem like much but im pretty sure your hurting the performance through a good bit of the launching untill certain speeds are hit. ive seen setups like this and watched cars lose power because of that until certain speeds are pushing enough air in. have you actually had the car on a dyno with that setup? cool air is good an all. but it the engine is actually having to struggle to get the air its not helping. you need something to actually monitor air CFMs and see if its actually helping or hurting. but i could be wrong. but that happened to me and a few others on our grand prix bck when i had one. the intakes are very similiar to the Z other than only having one box. we had places at the bottom of our front fascia perfect for ducting. but it turned out because of the length of tubing the engines were being starved of air. Last edited by jtown82; 03-17-2010 at 01:06 AM.

04-05-2010, 04:15 PM	#53 (permalink)
kevin1985912 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: san diego Age: 39 Posts: 285 Drives: 370zMT touring sport Rep Power: 16	is there a chance for the water to get into the filters when it rains? __________________ FI non resonated test pipes, CBE. Stillen G3 intakes, Amuse Kit, KW V3 coilovers, SSR Type F, Blackout headlights. 3M clear bra, UpRev tune, 320whp, 260 wtq http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...ect-raven.html

05-03-2010, 12:42 AM	#57 (permalink)
Dr.Awkward Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 39 Drives: 09 370z PW M6 Rep Power: 15	Think this would work to put air onto oil/dif coolers mounted in front of the wheel wells, would it be effective? __________________ Dr.Awkard

05-03-2010, 12:10 PM	#59 (permalink)
Dr.Awkward Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton AB Posts: 39 Drives: 09 370z PW M6 Rep Power: 15	So make a vent that would move the air out into the wheel well, that might help keep the brakes cooler too. __________________ Dr.Awkard

03-30-2010, 09:43 PM	#50 (permalink)
bejan Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chatsworth, CA Posts: 70 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z PW M6 Rep Power: 15	Hey Modshack, did you get pack A or pack B for the stainless clamps on the website (Http://www.aircraftspruce.com) you provided? +1 times as many times as I can for you by the way =]

05-02-2010, 11:11 PM	#55 (permalink)
jtown82 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: southern Arkansas Posts: 158 Drives: 09 chicane yellow Z Rep Power: 15	had a chance to get any dyno numbers? esp say with a good fan blowing into the inlets to see the true difference in power gained with air rushing in.

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