Originally Posted by Modshack Ummm...Everything was listed at the top of the album page: (4) 2.5" aluminum flanges P/N 10350-10 (6) foot Aeroduct hose P/N 05-29810 (4) Stainless clamps From:
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07-13-2009, 08:39 AM | #31 (permalink) | |
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"Brake cooling project in the works. Cost $16 per side using a shop vac nozzle, 2 1/2 flanges from Pilot Supplies, Avionics, and Homebuilt Aircraft Parts from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co. (part # 10350-10 $6.80) and some 2 1/2 hose. Testing resulted in a 10-12% reduction in rotor temps under normal driving conditions (stops to measure temps with an IR thermometer)"
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07-13-2009, 02:40 PM | #32 (permalink) | |
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Ah...OK...Didn't realize you were referring to the Brake Mod (since this thread didn't start out that way), but the parts for the Fang vents are the same Plus a few shop vac nozzles from Home Depot. You won't need as much hose either, but I'd buy that much anyway..... |
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07-13-2009, 03:16 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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You should always have a filter to clean the air before it goes into your engine
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07-13-2009, 03:41 PM | #34 (permalink) | |
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07-14-2009, 04:59 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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Huh?...All this stuff is pre-filter. Doesn't matter what you have..Stock or otherwise. It's simply a means to get outside (and cooler) air to the filter inlet..
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07-14-2009, 06:36 PM | #36 (permalink) | |
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Awesome write-up Mod. Definitely will be doing this once I get my next Z. +rep to you sir.
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Last edited by bboypuertoroc; 07-14-2009 at 06:39 PM. |
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07-16-2009, 08:56 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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Why wouldn't I do the same setup for Stillen Gen 3 long tube as was done for the brake? Actually asking about using the Shop vac aimed at the filter. That Shop vac bit was brilliant. I had been contemplating adding some vents in the nose until I saw this thread.
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07-22-2009, 05:36 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Very nice writeup. I too would be interested in routing the hose to the brakes. I have been told by more than one race shop that when doing ducting for any car, they only recommend routing air to the center of the rotor, so that it can blow from the inside out through the cooling vanes. Blowing air directly on the inside of the rotor will result in only that side being cooler, which puts uneven heat/stress on both rotors and pads.
Here is one example of a kit for BMW M3: Turner Motorsport - Item# TMSBRAKE46 - TMS E46 Racing Brake Duct Kit - E46 I wonder if there is enough room to come up with a similar solution for the 370Z? |
08-16-2009, 12:35 AM | #40 (permalink) | |
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09-05-2009, 02:05 AM | #41 (permalink) |
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Looking to have the vents done soon. I am wondering how much cooler air will get through on a Injen CAI versus the Stillen G3 CAI being they are mounted in different areas.
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09-07-2009, 12:18 AM | #43 (permalink) | |
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btw...props in advance for this great contribution to the community. |
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10-08-2009, 02:38 PM | #44 (permalink) |
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Here is a slight variation that will save you $17 on installation.
I used 2.5 inch neoprene brake duct hose from Porterfield brake company. Rather than attaching a set of flanges to the air pass through I just jammed the hose directly into the airbox. With a little flexing of the hose it fits in perfectly. The last picture is one taken with my cell phone directly into the airbox. Oh, yeah. I also routed the hoses around the outside of the crash bar. This required removing the air deflectors.
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10-15-2009, 09:53 AM | #45 (permalink) |
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gonna finally do this mod today
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