I've always wanted to get some hands-on experience on my car, however, I don't have the proper tools necessary to do so. So it comes down to this, what do
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08-29-2012, 03:52 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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What tools do I need in order to DIY?
I've always wanted to get some hands-on experience on my car, however, I don't have the proper tools necessary to do so. So it comes down to this, what do you use to mod/fix your Z?
Tried using the search function, couldn't find anything to do with "Tools Needed". So I might as well, right? edit: I should've been a bit more specific. Basic Tools! Metric Tools, gotcha. Last edited by EndyKwon; 08-29-2012 at 04:31 PM. |
08-29-2012, 04:02 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Well, every DIY job is different. I've tinkered on my cars for years with nothing more than a good Socket set and a set of wrenches.
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08-29-2012, 04:14 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: For spinning pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: For testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. ARC WELDER: An industrial tanning machine that also drops molten steel down into your shoes thus teaching how to dance at the same time. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh -- ' PLIERS: To round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. HACKSAW: Transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: To convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: To crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: Used to make hoses too short. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
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08-29-2012, 05:04 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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First - I believe in buying adequate tools for the job, but I do not believe in spending too much to get a better tool than I need. Opinions will vary WIDELY.
I tend to buy tools at Sears. Craftsman tools are not the best, but they are pretty good. For the jobs that a person who asks your question has any business tackling, they are fine. Again, opinions will vary. Here is a decent starter list: tire pressure gauge compressor to put air in the tires (go ahead and buy a big one if you think you will EVER want to use air tools) Your first project is probably changing your own oil: Rhino ramps (Wal-mart) and 2x10 boards to make extensions (so you don't drag the nose going up and down the ramps) Wheel chocks (Wal-mart) (so your car does not roll back down your Rhino Ramps and extensions, killing you) 3/4 inch drive socket set (metric) for most fasteners on the car - Craftsman is fine Some kind of oil filter wrench. Lots of people swear by the ones that grab the end of the filter and use a ratchet. I have found that the filter just flexes allowing those to turn. I prefer the metal strap variety, but I also use the kind that looks like giant pliers. Oil drain pan Nitrile gloves 3/4 inch drive torque wrench (because you will be paranoid about how tight to get the drain plug) A funnel that will hold a quart of oil but that will not fall over if you are not holding it (worth its weight in gold) Next, you might want to rotate your tires: A floor jack Jack stands (so that when (not if) the floor jack unexpectedly lowers the car, you will have an awesome internet story instead of a funeral) 1/2 inch drive non-ratcheting breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts (don't use your torque wrench to loosen things) OR, if you bought the big compressor, an air impact wrench. Only use the impact wrench to loosen fasteners. ALWAYS spin it in your hand to verify that it is loosening before you stick it on anything and pull the trigger. You will be surprised what one of these can strip. 1/2 inch drive 21MM non-scratch socket for lug nuts - Harbor Freight makes one that is adequate, but you have to buy a set of 6 for like $30. Craftsman probably makes them, too. Just get one that is wrapped in vinyl so it can't scratch your wheels. 1/2 inch drive torque wrench with 80-100 ft lbs somewhere in the middle of its range - Craftsman is fine, and it normally goes on sale on Black Friday for something close to nothing. Now, for your first mod: Long #2 Phillips screwdriver (to take the glove box off to install a cabin air filter). I am not a fan of buying a big screwdriver set, because they come with lots of crap you don't need. Buy a decent phillips screwdriver set that emphasizes #2. Get a real long one, a real short one, and a screwdriver size one. You need a small flat blade screwdriver for some of the body clips, but I am not sure I have encountered other slotted fasteners on the car. Others can chime in on this. Next - bleed your brakes - Stuff above plus Motive power bleeder (preferred) or Mity Vac brake bleeder (way cheaper but adequate) Set of metric open end wrenches Other: A little pump that allows you to pump fluids up for your next pieces of maintenance, changing your own diff and trans fluids - Motive makes a great one, but people get by with the crappy orange one from Wal Mart. One of those crappy plastic interior prybar sets that you will think is worthless until the first time you successfully don't break some small clip by having the proper tool to for the job Maybe an oil extractor so you can change your oil (but not your oil filter) without getting under the car. Considered sacrilege by some. Kitty litter. Shop towels Paper towels Window cleaner A set of pliers (regular, needle nose, slip joint) If you are going to do any electrical stuff, an automotive electrical kit Very optional: OBDII code reader TPMS reset tool |
08-29-2012, 05:10 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
-Pliers (All sorts) -Screwdriver set (Philips/flathead..etc) -High Quality socket set (A good set will last a lifetime, so don't buy the cheap ones) -High quality wrench set (Same deal as sockets) -Work Light -Panel removal tools (so you don't mess up any interior panels) -Hydraulic Floor Jack or racing ramps if you plan on doing oil changes. -Jack stands Nice to have -Power Drill/Driver and bits -Torque wrench -Zip Ties -Air Tools & Air Compressor (Impact wrench, etc.) -Soldering Tools It really depends on the DIY job.... Oil Changes for example, I would need to have a job specific material list: -Oil catch/container -Socket Set -Oil Filter Wrench -Oil funnel -Oil filter, Drain Plug & Oil For more specialized jobs like the brake pads, some auto parts stores let you borrow tools for free.
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