Get rid of the oem oil cooler It's just keeping the oil hot. What ever the coolant temp is. The oil cooler will not cool below that with the oem cooler.

Let me just "hijack" this thread and ask a sufficiently on-topic question so that I'm not hated :D

I'm looking into buying an oil cooler kit, and I was thinking about the 25 or so row kit from Z1. I have a stock 370z without the oil cooler. Does the kit include *everything* needed, such as holder for the filter that's long enough (or the sandwich plate fits the stock one?), as well as other stuff? I know this might be in some of the other threads, but I felt now is the right time to jump in here and ask :)

I believe it does, yes.

Delete it, the Oem cooler's capabilities are superseded tremendously by an external cooler. It also has a con which is the heating of the oil by design since the coolant sees a faster rise in temp than oil. Once oil passes 215F it starts to play an effect on the coolant as they're both trying to influence one another they both end up rising with time X load.

Divorcing both fluid systems is the way to go. Understand that its not the way to go for a production vehicle, one that needs to perform the same in North Russia as well as in the Mojave which is why the cooler and heater come in. By design this becomes an issue once performance is applied.


Not to sound like an ******* however Z1 as well as CZP do a fantastic pictoral job with their products.

If you check out the Z1 kit you'll see it brings all of the brackets to hold the cooler, the way it gets the oil out/in the engine is by a plate, you'd have to specify if you want thermostatic plate or not in which you should do thermostatic.

For you it would just take removing the oil filter stud and installing the Z1 plate with the new stud. The end look will be a similar to OEM with Oil cooler/warmer plate, instead of water it would be seeing oil in/out.
The kit is made as a "bolt on" piece and instructions will yield proper installation. Best part about a system like that is once the plate an lines are ran any additional temp control can be adjusted with a switch to a bigger/smaller cooler.

A big enough cooler will just see more cycling of the thermostatic plate vs a medium size. The plate controls all of the temperature which is why is so important.

Thanks for the info, I was just wanting to reconfirm the info about the stud for the filter/sandwich plate. I'm still on the fence as to take 25 or 34 row cooler. Thermostat is a nobrainer.

Since you're running a thermostatic plate you might as well go for a 34 row. 25 row is sufficient for a N/A car but it's not like you're going to overcool the oil with a therm plate on there.

I want to remove the factory oil cooler also. On my car I can’t change the filter with disconnecting the oil cooler lines. Makes a mess.

Since installing my oil cooler and thermostatic plate the engine oil and water temp match exactly after warmed up. The oil never cools more than engine temp. This all makes sense now why the oil won’t drop any lower than water temp.

Will the oil filter stud shipped with the Z1 Mocal plate work after removal of the factory cooler? This is on a ‘14.

Thanks

Update: Spoke to Z1 earlier. I ordered the 09-12 370Z oil filter stud. This will allow factory cooler to be removed and mocal sandwich plate installed.