DIY: of complete FOG LAMP install

simota1 · 03-22-2010, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Minicobra1

oooops!!

X2 lol ooops

CBRich · 03-22-2010, 05:20 AM

Most of the wires back there to the tails have no power when the car is off so you're usually fine. It's just a better safe than sorry kind of thing.

kielbasa16 · 03-22-2010, 11:16 PM

Sorry its been delayed a bit, but here are some pics of my fog light install from Saturday. I actually did some of the work despite the fact that only my girl appears in the pictures! This isnt a DIY just some pictures.

Nissan 370Z Forum - kielbasa16's Album: Fog Light Install

Also check out my 370Z & GTI album from the same day. My buddy came through to do a rear wiper delete and put on some polished chrome body pieces.

LunaZ · 04-17-2010, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

mmmmm, nice of you to put together, but the challenge is not installing the fog light. It's WIRING the fog light appropriately to a usable switch.

I disagree!
So far, the removal of the old dummy fog lamp is FAIL. Broken plastic pins and so much Loc-Tite on the nuts that I'm gonna have to Dremel them off.

I simply want my rear fog light to turn on and off, so the wiring will be the easy part!

simota1 · 04-17-2010, 12:30 PM

damn nissan for making it so hard to remove our dummy fogs...

CBRich · 04-18-2010, 10:18 AM

I posted a very simple way to remove that dummy fog somewhere. Before you even mess with the nuts you take your dremel cutting wheel and put a small slit in the stud. Now put your ratcheting wrench on the bolt and a flathead in your slit. Hold the flat head tight and start cranking.

LunaZ · 04-18-2010, 09:00 PM

OK, I'm now part of the rear fog light club!

After fighting with the dummy light, I was finally able to get to to removing some interior panels and running wires.
My hookup was simple since all I wanted the light to do was go on and off. Using the wiring harness with relay and switch available from The Z Store, I ran my wiring through a grommet on the passenger side where I spliced the hot wire the driver side license plate light wiring as demonstrated earlier in the thread. Then, I ran the wires and plug for the fog lamp between the aluminum bumper and styrofoam behind the rear fascia. I facilitated this route by popping off the rear tow hook plate and cutting out a channel in the styrofoam so the plug could slide down easily. This keeps everything neat and safe from the heat of the exhaust.
By the way, when I popped off the plate covering the tow hook mounting point, there wasn't a hole to screw the tow hook into. Weird.

simota1 · 04-18-2010, 10:48 PM

looks great

G35guy84 · 05-06-2010, 12:23 PM

I've got the rear fog light ready to install, but I first took it to Radio Shack and the Nissan service dept. and neither place knew what gauge wire to use to splice the fog wire to the license plate wire. Does anyone here know what gauge to use?

simota1 · 05-06-2010, 05:19 PM

16 gauge or 14 gauge is good... i think 14 gauge would be a lil over kill though

SigPapa226 · 05-06-2010, 07:46 PM

Courtesy of West Marine

Even the experts have to check occasionally on the correct gauge of wire for a given marine DC load. The simplest method we've found uses the charts below. Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes.
• Select either the 10% or 3% voltage drop chart, based on the type of load you are running.
• Next, find the current consumption of the load on the vertical axis of the chart.
• Find the length of the circuit on the horizontal axis of the chart, noting that the length is the "round trip" distance from the panel or battery to the load and back.
• The color of the graph at the intersection denotes the gauge of wire to use.

We've included copper wire specifications which comply with the AWG standards at the bottom. Of particular interest is the equation: Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot

This simple equation allows you to calculate the voltage drop for a circuit of any length and any current flow, if you know the resistance of the wire. Finally, note that the amp capacity of the wire curtails using very short lengths of wire for large current flows, as show by the "flat tops" of the 10% chart areas.

wire graph.jpg

Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes.

These simple, proprietary graphs assume:
• 105ºC insulation rating: All Ancor wire uses 105ºC insulation rating. Lower temperature insulation cannot handle as much current (the flat tops on the 10% graph would be lower than shown)
• AWG wire sizes: Not SAE All Ancor wire uses AWG wire sizes. SAE wire sizes are 6%-12% smaller, carry proportionally less current, and have greater resistance
• Wires are not run in engine spaces: Maximum current is 15% less in engine spaces, which are assumed to be 20¼C hotter than nonengine spaces (50¼C vs. 30¼C).
• Conductors are not bundled: If three conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 30%. If 4-6 conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 40%. If 7-24 conductors are bundled, reduce amperage by 50%.
AWG Wire Specs

jadeb0x · 06-08-2010, 07:59 PM

thanks for the info and diagrams, it made my install a lot easier. i installed mine as a 4th brake light with parking light feature, no flash. i did use male/female connectors so that if i wanted to add a flasher later it wouldn't be so hard to do.

anyhow, my extra tip... i used the tan 7443 harness end from the original Lexus IS300/Altezza brake light to obtain the low/high intensity (sourced from a junkyard). i had to shave the circumference of the harness down, and took out 2 of the locking prongs. it eventually sat snug and even locked into place within the light.

for wiring, i used the diagram that was previously provided here and of course i skipped over the flasher. hook up as follows:

nissan red wire - lexus green wire
nissan green wire - lexus green/white wire
nissan black wire - lexus white/black wire

as for the bolts, i didn't have any problem removing mine, just a little TLC with the removal. good luck with your installs and thanks again!

Calvin · 08-10-2010, 03:34 PM

quick question,
in order to remove the taillights, i have to remove the panels to get to the inner bolt right?

simota1 · 08-10-2010, 05:41 PM

yup

ZeeCar · 09-03-2010, 10:15 PM

For any of the 2010 guys with the dummy harness already in the rear from the factory this picture shows which wire (beige) to splice to make "hot". The ground from the harness is functional. I just spliced my install into the mint green wire on the taillight harness (will make it function as a 4th brake light). BTW this is on the passenger side.

04-17-2010, 12:30 PM	#140 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 405	damn nissan for making it so hard to remove our dummy fogs... __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

04-18-2010, 10:18 AM	#141 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 544	I posted a very simple way to remove that dummy fog somewhere. Before you even mess with the nuts you take your dremel cutting wheel and put a small slit in the stud. Now put your ratcheting wrench on the bolt and a flathead in your slit. Hold the flat head tight and start cranking. Last edited by CBRich; 04-18-2010 at 10:26 AM.

04-18-2010, 09:00 PM	#142 (permalink)
LunaZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Vagabond Posts: 6,704 Drives: Project: a white one Rep Power: 512	OK, I'm now part of the rear fog light club! After fighting with the dummy light, I was finally able to get to to removing some interior panels and running wires. My hookup was simple since all I wanted the light to do was go on and off. Using the wiring harness with relay and switch available from The Z Store, I ran my wiring through a grommet on the passenger side where I spliced the hot wire the driver side license plate light wiring as demonstrated earlier in the thread. Then, I ran the wires and plug for the fog lamp between the aluminum bumper and styrofoam behind the rear fascia. I facilitated this route by popping off the rear tow hook plate and cutting out a channel in the styrofoam so the plug could slide down easily. This keeps everything neat and safe from the heat of the exhaust. By the way, when I popped off the plate covering the tow hook mounting point, there wasn't a hole to screw the tow hook into. Weird. __________________ 2009 370Z Sport/Touring/Navigation \| see my journal for mods facebook: Be my friend... or not.

04-18-2010, 10:48 PM	#143 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 405	looks great __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

05-06-2010, 12:23 PM	#144 (permalink)
G35guy84 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: New York Posts: 305 Drives: '09 370Z 7AT Sprt PW Rep Power: 16	I've got the rear fog light ready to install, but I first took it to Radio Shack and the Nissan service dept. and neither place knew what gauge wire to use to splice the fog wire to the license plate wire. Does anyone here know what gauge to use? __________________ '09 Nissan 370Z Base 7AT - Sport Package - Pearl White \| Performance Mods: Stillen G3 CAI \| F.I. HFC \| F.I. TDX CBE w/ 18" resonators \| Megan Racing coilover kit \| Ichiba rear camber kit \| 20mm front / 25mm rear H&R spacers \| Aesthetic Mods: White interior/license plate LEDs \| 6000K bulbs \| 20% tint

03-22-2010, 05:20 AM	#137 (permalink)
CBRich A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: SC Posts: 2,464 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 544	Most of the wires back there to the tails have no power when the car is off so you're usually fine. It's just a better safe than sorry kind of thing.

03-22-2010, 11:16 PM	#138 (permalink)
kielbasa16 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NY Posts: 770 Drives: 09 Blk Z Spt Rep Power: 17	Sorry its been delayed a bit, but here are some pics of my fog light install from Saturday. I actually did some of the work despite the fact that only my girl appears in the pictures! This isnt a DIY just some pictures. Nissan 370Z Forum - kielbasa16's Album: Fog Light Install Also check out my 370Z & GTI album from the same day. My buddy came through to do a rear wiper delete and put on some polished chrome body pieces.

05-06-2010, 05:19 PM	#145 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 405	16 gauge or 14 gauge is good... i think 14 gauge would be a lil over kill though __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

05-06-2010, 07:46 PM	#146 (permalink)
SigPapa226 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 205 Drives: 300 ZXTT, 370 ZR Rep Power: 16	Courtesy of West Marine Even the experts have to check occasionally on the correct gauge of wire for a given marine DC load. The simplest method we've found uses the charts below. Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes. • Select either the 10% or 3% voltage drop chart, based on the type of load you are running. • Next, find the current consumption of the load on the vertical axis of the chart. • Find the length of the circuit on the horizontal axis of the chart, noting that the length is the "round trip" distance from the panel or battery to the load and back. • The color of the graph at the intersection denotes the gauge of wire to use. We've included copper wire specifications which comply with the AWG standards at the bottom. Of particular interest is the equation: Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot This simple equation allows you to calculate the voltage drop for a circuit of any length and any current flow, if you know the resistance of the wire. Finally, note that the amp capacity of the wire curtails using very short lengths of wire for large current flows, as show by the "flat tops" of the 10% chart areas. wire graph.jpg Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes. These simple, proprietary graphs assume: • 105ºC insulation rating: All Ancor wire uses 105ºC insulation rating. Lower temperature insulation cannot handle as much current (the flat tops on the 10% graph would be lower than shown) • AWG wire sizes: Not SAE All Ancor wire uses AWG wire sizes. SAE wire sizes are 6%-12% smaller, carry proportionally less current, and have greater resistance • Wires are not run in engine spaces: Maximum current is 15% less in engine spaces, which are assumed to be 20¼C hotter than nonengine spaces (50¼C vs. 30¼C). • Conductors are not bundled: If three conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 30%. If 4-6 conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 40%. If 7-24 conductors are bundled, reduce amperage by 50%. AWG Wire Specs __________________ Black 300ZX TT Stock + Megan CBE; Black Cherry 370Z Roadster, 6MT, Touring, Sport, Nav., 3-way Fog Light (Running, brake & flashing backup), Triple Tone Air Horns. Last edited by SigPapa226; 05-06-2010 at 07:54 PM.

06-08-2010, 07:59 PM	#147 (permalink)
jadeb0x Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 136 Drives: 09 370Z PW M6 Rep Power: 15	thanks for the info and diagrams, it made my install a lot easier. i installed mine as a 4th brake light with parking light feature, no flash. i did use male/female connectors so that if i wanted to add a flasher later it wouldn't be so hard to do. anyhow, my extra tip... i used the tan 7443 harness end from the original Lexus IS300/Altezza brake light to obtain the low/high intensity (sourced from a junkyard). i had to shave the circumference of the harness down, and took out 2 of the locking prongs. it eventually sat snug and even locked into place within the light. for wiring, i used the diagram that was previously provided here and of course i skipped over the flasher. hook up as follows: nissan red wire - lexus green wire nissan green wire - lexus green/white wire nissan black wire - lexus white/black wire as for the bolts, i didn't have any problem removing mine, just a little TLC with the removal. good luck with your installs and thanks again!

08-10-2010, 03:34 PM	#148 (permalink)
Calvin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Castro Valley, CA Age: 34 Posts: 1,418 Drives: 4GS, R8v10 Rep Power: 18	quick question, in order to remove the taillights, i have to remove the panels to get to the inner bolt right? __________________ BUILD THREAD SPONSORED BY: SPEEDELEMENT

08-10-2010, 05:41 PM	#149 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 405	yup __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

09-03-2010, 10:15 PM	#150 (permalink)
ZeeCar Base Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Federal Way, WA Posts: 26 Drives: 2010 370z PW 6MT Rep Power: 15	For any of the 2010 guys with the dummy harness already in the rear from the factory this picture shows which wire (beige) to splice to make "hot". The ground from the harness is functional. I just spliced my install into the mint green wire on the taillight harness (will make it function as a 4th brake light). BTW this is on the passenger side. __________________ 2010 370z PW 6MT She's Still a Virgin

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