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Pat, if you get the Evo R fog light it is very easy to install and wire up. You do no need a switch in the console if you only
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Pat, if you get the Evo R fog light it is very easy to install and wire up. You do no need a switch in the console if you only want flashing reverse and brake light. You will just tap into the driver's side tail light wiring. There is a grommet once you remove the plastic covers in the trunk that you will be able to tap easily. It is just 2 wires, and 1 ground. 1 to trigger the reverse flashing and the 2nd for brake light. The DIY tells you exactly what color wires you need, then just ground it, there is a grounding bolt right by there also
Forgot to mention, you do not need to remove the bumper, taillight or anything like that. Just jack up the car a bit will make it easier to work on removing the fog assembly etc. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Dembflyr, no worries. Seems like the Evo R model is the way to go for something that's on the lower section of the car.
Martin just seems to make sense about only having the light function in this manner. Most of the time I'm driving the car here in Alaska, it's daylight. With that, it seems like an economical way to prevent someone from running into the back of me, or to help others when I'm backing up. Won't be any sweat for me to access this wiring. Already been into the rear area installing Dynamat. Might look at doing the light install over Spring Break. Am wanting to jack the car up enough to change out the diff. fluid anyway. Couldn't own one of these cars without the forum!! Much appreciated!! Pat. And by the way, we received another 4 inches of snow today. Right around 8 ft. total for the winter. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Epic rain light!
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#5 (permalink) |
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It's the rain light on the new F12!
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For those having issues with the bolt spinning / loctite, here's what I did: spray the nuts with some PB Blaster. Let it sit for about 30 seconds. Then take your 10mm and do a quick / hard turn on the nuts to break the (now softened) loctite. Both of mine spun right off doing this. Less than a minute to remove it.
I'd normally break loctite with a wrench / hammer combo, but I couldn't get a hammer in there. A quick turn should accomplish the same thing. The key is, you have to do this first, not after you've jacked with them and spun the head. |
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531890_10151422443655858_613600857_23622491_1842279755_n.jpg had mine for a month still love it people are backing off a lil bit
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Do you have the specs on the flasher and the relay?
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I've read absolutely every post on this thread. Now you can call it lack of sleep or stupidity but I'm completely lost. All these words are just confusing the s*** out of me. I'm a visual learner and I have absolutely no experience with wiring of any sort. I ordered the jdm version and I want it to be on when my headlights are on and I also want it to function as a brake light(if that makes any sense). Someone please point me In a general direction. More than willing to rep anyone that helps. Thanks in advance.
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#13 (permalink) |
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the JDM version comes with a single filament bulb 7440, and thus it always looks like the light is "braking" when it is on.
if you want it on as a parking light when driving, and brighter when you hit the brakes... then you have to obtain a dual filament light bulb harness 7443 to achieve this. there's pictures of the general install on the first page of this thread, and if you search my posts i explain how i did it with a Lexus IS300 brake lightbulb harness. |
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#14 (permalink) | ||
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Here's a write up I did recently on how to achieve this by modifying the fog light assembly and wiring diagram. Rear Foglight - Running light AND brake light
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#15 (permalink) | |||
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This is good if you want to use it as a fourth brake light, but it makes it ineffective as a fog light until you are braking. Three brake lights is enough for me ![]()
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