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DIY: LED Halo w/Video's

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Old 07-07-2012, 03:15 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Can't wait!!!
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:54 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Awesome progress man! I did mine in the oven. First time I've seen anyone use a cardboard box.
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Looking good.

Are you blacking everything out or going with a different color sceam?

My Z is silver also so it'll be great to see what it looks like.
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thread jack. Nice knife man, is that a folder or fixed? looks real good.
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:59 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thread jack. Nice knife man, is that a folder or fixed? looks real good.
No folder, strait knife.. Was a gift.. Thanks
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I saw the box used on youtube. Some guy in a fab shop did it with 2 heat guns.
Sorry I don't know how to quote yet!!

Okay,
A picture tells a thousand words, so here it goes. To fill the dimples just use body filler, I use Lizard Skin body filler. It works great. Make sure when you fill the dimples you leave enough to sand down flush. As the stuff dries it sinks into the dimple, moisture leaving the filler.



This is the piece that needs to be cut, be careful and take your time!! You need to cut it as close to the grey as you can with out damaging it.




To remove the clear plastic I settled on using this:




You want to leave an 1/8 of an inch lip around the bezel all the way around.





The front side just needs to be flush. That's the side you will use to epoxy the halo on.. Currently there is no way to recede the halo. It will just be attached on the outside of the plastic. Making the plastic smooth will give you a cleaner look at the seam.



When you think your close try a test fit.. You DO NOT want the lens to sit flush on the bezel, there needs to be a 3/16th gap between the bezel and the lens. That gap will allow the halo to sit flush when you mount it later to the front of the bezel. The gap keeps the lens from push the halo out. The halo wont sit flush on the plastic if you try to flush mount the G35 Lens. There will be a gap between the lens and the plastic; its okay. Will discuss mounting it all when I do it, I'll take lots of pictures.



This looks good, now I'll move to the the halo clearances.


Last edited by Nut_N_Much; 05-03-2013 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:36 PM   #22 (permalink)
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After your test fit you can clean it up and smooth it out repaint it if needed. Remember the grey is all that will be seen.. When you glue the lens on its goop is clear but try to avoid getting it all over the lens.

I measured the halo, its 1/4 inch width then I measured the gap between the Light Shroud and The Turn Signal Shroud we just modified. It looks like the halo wont fit with out modifying the Light Shroud. So I need to cut 1/4 out of the housing. I have to figure out how to do it, if I cut the wrong side I ruin the hole thing. So when you mark it check it twice before cutting.




Mounted the modded turn signal shroud and slide the halo in front of it. This will show you which side you need to cut. Once cut it will allow the halo to sit centered on the shroud. Once you figure out what you need to cut off the light shroud you can go ahead and glue the halo on the turn signal shroud you modified.

I marked were i needed to cut with a marker and used the air grinder to grind it out slowly and get a good tight fit. Check it as you go you don't want a huge gap. You should be able to slide the turn signal shroud (with everything mounted to it) in and out freely. If you grind to much don't worry, once the lights are painted its not very visiable unless guys like us are looking for it.



My cut worked perfectly see the pic. Also gave me a good location to run the wires to the control box.




The hard part over is now over, just remember what you did and do it again to the other light. Next I figured out how I wanted my 90mm halo wire to run so I drilled a small hole in the projection light shroud. Now I have done a lot of lights I recommend running wires through the top of the shroud, if you run them at the bottom or on the side they will be visible once they are put back together. The picture is old and shows the hole being on the side, drill at the top not the side.

The retrofitsource.com XB halo's fit snugly in the valley of the shroud. This halo ring from LitWurkz (Angel Eye Kit) will not sit in the valley. They are glued to the outside. This DIY I used the lightwurks kit and also ordered LED Turn Signals. ****You will want to replace the stock turn signal light bulb**** The stock bulb gives off a lot of heat, that heat will transfer to the G35 Lens we installed, That lens will get hot enough to cause your paint to bubble up over time.



I hate wrapping, I tried to do it with one piece. NOT going to happen with me at the helm. I did what I could..




Came out okay just worried about the heat. I have seen a few forum members wrap the inside of the lights but not on the shroud itself. I guess we will find out. The worst that can happen is I take it off and paint it some crazy color .

The wife says to stop and eat, I have been at it all day and it started to rain. Good timing. Please REP +! and LIKE if you like the progress or this build helps you do your own.. Thanks for lookin !

Last edited by Nut_N_Much; 05-03-2013 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:45 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ericzmyers View Post
Looking good.

Are you blacking everything out or going with a different color sceam?

My Z is silver also so it'll be great to see what it looks like.
I wanted to color match the rims (Dark Silver) and leave the shrouds carbon fiber wrap. I thing it will look good. My problem is I don't have the rims yet. I will run out of leave time next week so I needed to start the mod.

If you have some basic tools you can do this mod. Not to difficult at least until I wire it up.
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Dang.... I like your idea using the box as an oven, it seem much more easier then just using the heat gun. Can the box bake a cake as well? Haha jk... Nice work
Cant wait to see the final finish...
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:47 PM   #25 (permalink)
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this is a fantastic write up. thanks for taking the time to do it!
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:41 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Very nice work so far. I dread opening my headlights up again - 3 of my halo LEDs have gone out and I need to fix the connection that is loose
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:01 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Dang.... I like your idea using the box as an oven, it seem much more easier then just using the heat gun. Can the box bake a cake as well? Haha jk... Nice work. Cant wait to see the final finish...
Haaa, I bet it would make a cake!!!

Quote:
this is a fantastic write up. thanks for taking the time to do it!
Thanks, the main driving force is money!!! I have more to spend on sway bar kit if I do the lights my self. Plus I hate for someone to think they can't do this.

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Very nice work so far. I dread opening my headlights up again - 3 of my halo LEDs have gone out and I need to fix the connection that is loose
I am worried about that. Most LEDs are sold with 60 watt resisters. I posted a write up from Javier in it he talked about mili amps and 1 watt/200 ohms. It made since the way he wrote it, but now seeing all the LEDs that are sold from factory with 60Watt resisters, I may go with that. Anything electrical scares the crap out of me No matter what I need to wire them up outside the light for easy access to fix or make changes.

What are your thoughts on why the LEDs are going out?
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:31 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Also started to heat wrap the Gen 3 Intake, and the ART test pipes arrived (thanks FootLoos301)
Sweet deal

Yours should have the tabs on them too... Mine don't
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:05 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Update

This morning started good, I wrapped the reflector and mounted the large halo with 2 part epoxy. Later in this thread I will recommend not using epoxy, just use Auto Goop for Everything. It works great.. The large halo wont recede so its generously glued to the outside of the shroud.



Sanded the filler from last night and finished taping off the light shroud and painted..



Waiting for the paint to dry I cut the strip for the light shroud..



I would like to say PAINTERS TAPE SUCKS.. It was probably my fault i should have gotten some better tape. I used what I had laying around. Man it would have had the perfect balance of chrome trim and carbon.



So I picked up the hammer and .... Just kidding, shifted gears and re-taped the Carbon strip. Going all black.. I will say I did NOT sand these to ruff them up before painting. ***Make sure you do rough them up before painting*** I was amazed how easy it flaked off when I removed the tape.. Lesson Learned.



Starting the second Light wile this one dries. Now I have to repeat everything I did on the first light.

Last edited by Nut_N_Much; 05-03-2013 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 07-08-2012, 03:32 PM   #30 (permalink)
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This is how I attached the modded turn signal shroud. The epoxy drys quick so mixing and putting it on is PITA. Like I said before use Auto Goop for everything it works great and give you time to fix any mistakes you might accidentally make.



Using some impact sockets to press it all together while it dries. I want the Halo and lens to dry together. The socks just act as a press. Use anything thats heavy and will keep it pressed until it drys.


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