this!

Here is the image from the service manual. I hope to do this in the next few months and definitely plan to document the process for the forum.

http://i45.tinypic.com/358nr85.jpg

For those looking for pictures underneath. Sorry it took me so long to post them. Follow the clutch line to the transmission and you will see a little black cap. Pull that off and thats the bleed nipple you'll be working with.

http://www.the370z.com/members/wsarv...-cap-black.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/wsarv...-black-cap.jpg

dayam is that salt corrosion from the ocean? yikes...

Probably. I think the car came from the Carolinas and more than likely has seen some salty roads. There's also a little rust here and there but nothing I haven't seen on other vehicles. But I bet that's why I had such a hard time getting the stock exhaust off. I had all 4 bolts siezed up at the cats and ended up using those extractor sockets along with a blow torch. Was under the car for the entire day sunrise to sunset wrestling with those suckers.

Any video for this DIY?

Anybody change there break and clutch fluid when it still looks clean and is full in the resivour and notice a difference in the clutch? My clutch feels like it has half the peddle length to the floor than it normally does,but only in the morning after the car sits all night. At first it would do it once in a while,but now is a common occurrence. I'm thinking that it has absorbed a bunch of moisture,so it's lost its ability to keep pressure. After about ten minutes it's fine. I got the car last October so I don't know when the fluid has been changed,or if at all. I bought fluid anyways and will be bleeding the system for piece of mind,but was curious if anybody has ran into these symptoms with the clutch and looked to have decent and clean fluid.

sub'd. doing this this weekend!

Can this be done with a motive pressure bleeder? Similar to bleeding brakes?

The FSM specifically says NOT to use them :twocents:

Thanks!

Gravity bleeding works real well. Suck out most of the old with a syringe, then refill to the top, open bleeder at the bottom a turn or two, then monitor to to make sure it doesn't run dry.

You can use a helper at the end to pump the pedal a few times and do a traditional bleed. Not really necessary if there's no problem to begin with and it's just preventative maintenance being done.

just curious how long does it take to drain out all the fluid from the clutch fluid reservoir?

When I did mine, i'd start refilling it when it got to the low mark. Went through 4 or 5 repetitions like this. It wasn't gushing out the other end, but definitely coming out. I'd say it took a good 30 seconds (or more) to go from almost at the top to the low mark.

I used about half of a 12oz bottle. Keep in mind, clutch fluid capacity is very minimal to begin with.