ALL CREDIT GOES TO FRITZ FOR THE GREAT R&D ON OUR STEERING LOCK AND ITS INNER WORKINGS - LINK The hardest part about this whole deal is getting comfortable enough
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
05-20-2012, 06:36 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: In the shop
Posts: 281
Drives: Women Crazy
Rep Power: 13 |
Steering Lock: Cutting the Brownie
ALL CREDIT GOES TO FRITZ FOR THE GREAT R&D ON OUR STEERING LOCK AND ITS INNER WORKINGS - LINK
The hardest part about this whole deal is getting comfortable enough to work, I had a couple of new wheel boxes that were just the right height next to the car to make a level place to lay on my back and look up under the dash at the steering lock. I put some blankets and horse pads (I have a couple of horses) in the foot well to lie on and put my head. Once you get your place to lay all nice, put your car in ACC (steering lock should disengage, should be able to hear it). Car will start beeping (PITA) – I put ear plugs in at this point. Get a little LED flashlight or headlight so you can see up in there. The wire loom holding the wires going to the steering lock socket has a wire tie connected to it above the metal steering lock, cut that wire tie and it will be easier to get the plug out of the socket – be careful cutting. I used a Snap-on curved pik tool to get the plug out of the socket – THE NOTCHED PART OF THE PLUG IS ON THE TOP – The pik tool helped a ton getting the plug out of the socket. The real hard part is done! If you are not too big (I’m 6 foot and 200lbs.) you can then slide in on your side facing the front and gently pull the plug downward to be able to work on it. Once the plug is out the wires are covered with wire loom and tape, with your small cutters, cut back the wire loom/tape so you don’t have to cut the brown wire right flush with the socket, if you cut the wrong wire (highly unlikely) flush with the socket it would be next to impossible to do a splice repair and you would be up sheet creek. I cut the wire loom up a couple of inches, removed more tape and exposed the wiring, this made it much simpler to cut and retape the brown wire. ALL THIS TIME THE CAR IS BEEPING!! – PITA!! Tape up the wires, plug in the socket and done – viola!, no more steering lock. Make a nice work bed... I used this tool to remove the plug... After the plug is out of the socket it is easier to work on laying on your side, don't cut the brown wire too short at the socket just in case. Last edited by rhd; 05-20-2012 at 07:15 PM. |
05-20-2012, 06:41 PM | #2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,722
Drives: z34 - R1
Rep Power: 490 |
Thanks for the diy. This is great for someone who's ok cutting a wire.
__________________
2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts |
05-21-2012, 12:34 PM | #4 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Andorre
Posts: 90
Drives: 2010 370Z M6
Rep Power: 16 |
rhd, very many thanks, twofold.
Pics were sorely needed! Job done......and really great too. That B.......buzzer noise: Fuse box at driver's left foot. The 11th fuse on the left side of the fuse array. That is the third from the bottom. Remove it to prevent buzzer noise. Removing it does other, nice to me, things when the fuse is put back. It re-sets the clock to 1. It re-sets the computer It re-sets the two trip meters to zero (plus the computer one) I therefore added a switch between the two legs of the fuse (The computer's readouts go blank until switched on...stationary or on-the-move. ) One gets: Ability to play the radio/CD with the door open (important to me on a hot day) Elapsed trip time from the clock (starts at 1.00...hey, there's a clock on my wrist!) Elapsed seat time (from the computer) Fresh trip mileage from zero, in 3 places Trip fuel consumption/average speed etc So the switch is turned off after most trips..and one does not forget to switch it on for the next, as the computer is unlit. Fritz |
07-21-2012, 12:32 PM | #10 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 67
Drives: 09 Touring/Sport/Nav
Rep Power: 14 |
Getting the plug out of the socket is a major PITA. I spent over an hour trying to remove it. Finally I grabbed some small needle nose pliers and it came right out. The pliers were able to engage the little piece of plastic that holds it all together. (I chase to purchase the plug and play adapter.) This is a piece of cake once you remove the plug.
|
07-21-2012, 01:00 PM | #11 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North East
Posts: 6,203
Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6
Rep Power: 653 |
Quote:
__________________
Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms |
|
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Steering lock failure | Terrace | Canada | 52 | 06-16-2013 10:32 PM |
Those of you who have had Steering Lock Failure | Thechidz | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 449 | 01-12-2013 06:05 PM |
Steering Lock Elimination | Vince | Exterior & Interior | 38 | 05-18-2012 11:43 AM |
Steering lock repair | fritz | DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself) | 38 | 02-22-2012 10:30 PM |
steering wheel lock | rosankyslim | Exterior & Interior | 4 | 01-19-2012 04:43 PM |