Okay guys, so finally got around to posting this up. The product is an Altect 400EU Show-n-go front license plate holder. The retail is $159. The cheapest I could find
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06-09-2009, 09:24 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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DIY: Power Retractable Front License Plate Install
Okay guys, so finally got around to posting this up.
The product is an Altect 400EU Show-n-go front license plate holder. The retail is $159. The cheapest I could find is Summit Racing for $130 plus shipping. Altec 400EU - Altec Products Powered Show N Go License Plate Mounts My overall impressions: First, I wanted to place this in the grill section by removing a few of the vertical slats, unfortunately it will not fit. Even if you remove a lot of the grill, which would look bad, the assembly would stick a few inches out past the bumper which would look worse. Hacking into the plastic pieces undeneath made me a little uneasy, but after installation everything looks fine and no one should notice your little hack job. Ground clearance has not been an issue, it actually sits higher than the chin spoiler does by about a 1/4". I haven't noticed any effect on oil/water temps with the plate up even in 90 degree weather. Finally, this thing will have to be unbolted (2 bolts) and wires disconnected for each oil change, but that shouldn't be a major issue. I did this without jacking up the car or ramps, but it was a PITA, would recommend doing it on ramps! First, if you have the front chin spoiler installed you are either going to have to remove it which is painful because it is placed on with plastic rivets, or cut a section out of it. Hacking into my car made me mildly nauseous, but I figure I can always replace these parts if I want to later. This is the area I measured to cut out Cut out the section with a really sharp razor knife or a saw. Remember to tape off the underside of the bumper for some protection against a slip of your instrument. The result from cutting away this piece prior to filing/sanding down the edges smooth. As you can see, you are still left with a lip behind this from the plastic tray covering the underside of the motor. You will need to cut this away as well, it is softer and can be handled with the razor knife. Now we have a flush surface to mount to. Next, you will need to unbolt all of the front and side 10 mm bolts holding the tray in place so you can pull it down, it does not need to be removed so leave the back bolts in place. Unfortunately, the track for the plate is long enough that it bumps into the angled section on the plastic tray. You will need to cut a flap into this tray to insert the end of the track/motor assembly into. I would recommend against cutting an actual hole, because leaving the flap in place secures the end of the track/motor. Again this soft plastic can be cut with a sharp razor knife. Track/motor placed into the flap. Now you will want to run the wiring and hook up the reciever to the battery. I would have liked to place the reciever into the battery box area and run the wires through one of the pre-drilled holes in the firewall, but the wire they give you is too short. I plan on splicing in an extension in the future and relocating the reciever, this will make the underhood appearance much more cosmetic. Here is a pic of the "temporary fix" Next, hook up the wires to the motor and place the motor cap per the instruction sheet. Now it is time to mount the front of the plate assembly to the undersurface of the bumper. They include rubber inserts that are threaded and self expanding, however I couldn't get the damn things to work, they kept pulling out of the bumper. So, I used the included j-bolts in the factory license plate kit and it worked like a charm! Despite pushing things all the way back, you will still have a slight tongue of the plate assembly sticking out past the bumper 1/4". My car is black so it's less noticeable, owners of other colors should keep this in mind. I placed the remote here, but you can obviously place it wherever Let me know what you all think! |
06-09-2009, 09:55 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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EDIT: actually, it is worth the trouble to me b/c I need a front plate and I think having the plate low down like this looks better than the high factory position. I don't like the offset appearance of the Stillen frame, I'm a stickler on symmetry. |
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06-09-2009, 10:06 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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for the creativity! James Bond license plate!
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06-10-2009, 12:49 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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Can I put that on the rear too for speed cameras and toll roads
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06-22-2009, 07:09 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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I use to have one of these on another car of mine. When I did get pulled over for no front plate I flipped the switch. The cop would come up and tell me I have no front plate and I would say yes I do. He would then look and seem confused. I never got a front plate ticket.
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07-18-2009, 03:46 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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That is F-in amazing lol. I love the bit about freakin the cop out too... The video seals it, if I was in a 2 plate state I'd totally have one of these. I'm wonderin though with the plate sticking out, would it work if you drilled 2 holes in the plate itself and mounted the plate to the bracket a little higher? Would that help conceal it more... or is that more anal than it needs to be? |
07-19-2009, 12:30 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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I don't think that would work...the 1/4 inch that is sticking out is part of the track, not part of the plate bracket. If you did do that then you would have a bit of exposed black plate frame when in the up position.
Since I originally posted this I have re-routed the wires under the hood so it is stealth and mounted the remote to the right of the steering wheel, concealed but easily accessible and also I just leave it down at all times. I'll put it up if I get pulled over. |
07-20-2009, 01:04 AM | #14 (permalink) | |
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