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This is what I was able to find in the service manual. This might be helpful when combined with the information from Fritz, and the Steering lock DIY thread. Basically,
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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This is what I was able to find in the service manual. This might be helpful when combined with the information from Fritz, and the Steering lock DIY thread. Basically, this info may be relavant to some, and it might not...
This is the Steering lock connector, I have not found full schematics in the service manual as of yet. All that is needed for this is to stick your head under the dash and record the wires and locations, ![]() Here is the Steering Lock in relation to the BCM and IPDM E/R ![]() Here is a break down of the wiring, what conditions to look for and when, This is the conditions for wires 97(L) and 98(P) these wires also goto the IPDM E/R as wire 32(L) and 33(P). The service manual lists wire 97 as S/L Condition 1 and wire 98 as S/L Condition 2. It looks as though wire 32/97 is S/L Lock and wire 33/98 is S/L Unlock ![]() Here is the condition for wire 106 ![]() Here is the condition for wire 111 ![]() conditions at the BCM ![]() wire location at BCM ![]() Diagnostics, ![]() If there is something specific someone needs or wants to see, let me know and I'll do my best to find it. Also, use your brain before you start digging around the wiring in your car, I'm not responsible for any problems you might cause or encounter from this information.
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#2 (permalink) |
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So it is as simple as making sure the wheel is unlocked first, and then cutting one wire and taping off the cut end with electrical tape so it doesn't short ? If this works I would be happy to forego the lock function rather than pay $500 for the new lock revision part or risk being stranded somewhere and have to be towed to a dealer. I probably wouldn't even wire in a new switch, especially if I don't get an error light on the dash and the car starts with the cut wire.
Who is going to be the next one to do it and report ? ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Many thanks, folk, for the thank-you..s
And thanks to Gale Force too for his effort ....but With great respect I found the shop manual a complete pain. It does not cater for such heathen manipulation of sealed steering locks and I doubt the manual writers had proper access to steering lock information anyhow. (Nissan do not actually make the lock...made by security specialists, Huf Hulsbeck and Furst ... in the USA dontcha know... who probably hate to see this). I got my head out of incredible repair manual confusion (partly shown in the Gale Force post) and inside the steering lock. The electric motor in the lock is supplied by two Omron relays. The primary power source to each relay is singular (terminal #1 brown wire). As there's only one power supply it must be switchable on/off/pos/neg. That's logic. That way the electric motor worm turns clock or anti-clock to drive a gear wheel with an internal cam which drives the lock element in or out, depending on that polarity at the motor. Take away the power and the motor is stopped at "locked" or "unlocked". ....and for good....until power is re-applied (with any switch). The position sensors, including the one in the driver's door switch, will determine which rotation to use. That's it: so broody difficult .. yet hindsight changes that: any questions? Fritz Now: who'll tell me the numbers written under the "made in" ..... on a VVEL relay? (I can tell you where it is and how to look at it (5 mins). |
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