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Steering Lock: cut one wire. /switch optional

Originally Posted by kenchan so basically turn the car to ACC (listen for the lock to wind and unlock), then unplug car harness from steering-lock, plug one end of the

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Old 04-27-2012, 02:17 PM   #91 (permalink)
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so basically turn the car to ACC (listen for the lock to wind and unlock), then unplug car harness from steering-lock, plug one end of the new bdl99-hotwire harness to the car harness and the other end to the steering-lock (?)
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Ok on a functioning lock with the soon to be made dummy plug/hotwire harness installed. How will we know it's working? When the car is off (w/the plug installed) we shouldn't have a key light on and we should be able the turn the wheel? Will this tell us what we want to know?
That's the idea. The steering wheel should move freely as if the lock doesn't exist, and the light *should* remain off.

This is why I wanted to try to get a couple of plugs first so I could do some R&D first, then share my findings... I don't want to cut up my wire harness to do testing.

I'm assuming from the fix Frtiz has suggested that the 2 wires that go to the BCM and IPDM will stil register unlocked. I don't know if there will be problems down the road because the BCM is also monitoring the driver door, ignition, key, etc... It may throw a code or service light... Not sure. If someone is willing to cut a wire, we'll have another tester...
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:41 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:08 PM   #93 (permalink)
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I'm assuming from the fix Frtiz has suggested that the 2 wires that go to the BCM and IPDM will stil register unlocked. I don't know if there will be problems down the road because the BCM is also monitoring the driver door, ignition, key, etc... It may throw a code or service light... Not sure. If someone is willing to cut a wire, we'll have another tester...
With Fritz's fix the "state" signal to the BCM should still exist since that is a passive signal that loops through the lock through the contact closure switches. I don't foresee any BCM/IPDM problems.

The power cut prevents the lock from being able to change state or report any problem. My end goal is to identify the "loop through" signals and make a loop back connector so the lock can be completely disconnected and removed for those that desire.
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:20 PM   #94 (permalink)
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With Fritz's fix the "state" signal to the BCM should still exist since that is a passive signal that loops through the lock through the contact closure switches. I don't foresee any BCM/IPDM problems.

The power cut prevents the lock from being able to change state or report any problem. My end goal is to identify the "loop through" signals and make a loop back connector so the lock can be completely disconnected and removed for those that desire.


Much much rep for this my good man....
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:05 PM   #95 (permalink)
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With Fritz's fix the "state" signal to the BCM should still exist since that is a passive signal that loops through the lock through the contact closure switches. I don't foresee any BCM/IPDM problems.

The power cut prevents the lock from being able to change state or report any problem. My end goal is to identify the "loop through" signals and make a loop back connector so the lock can be completely disconnected and removed for those that desire.
So, we just need to figure out what to do with Wire #111, if anything at all. Wire 97 will need 12v, wire 98 and 106 need 0v. Have you tried that with wire 111 at 0v or even not connected?
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:10 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Sub'd and in for pics.
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:17 PM   #97 (permalink)
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So, we just need to figure out what to do with Wire #111, if anything at all. Wire 97 will need 12v, wire 98 and 106 need 0v. Have you tried that with wire 111 at 0v or even not connected?
I haven't been able to do anything yet as I don't want to hack my wire harness to pieces. Once I get the connector I will be able to do more experiments and measurements. Also once the wire numbers are identified at the lock end of things it will be a lot easier.
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:05 PM   #98 (permalink)
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I haven't been able to do anything yet as I don't want to hack my wire harness to pieces. Once I get the connector I will be able to do more experiments and measurements. Also once the wire numbers are identified at the lock end of things it will be a lot easier.
I'm in the same boat as you. We should be able to get this figured out.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:05 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Correct. That's what we're going for.
I'm in if it works too. Great work guys !
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Old 04-29-2012, 12:39 PM   #100 (permalink)
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GaleForce wrote:

I'm in the same boat as you. We should be able to get this figured out.

There's a whole lot of "figuring out" goin' on! (Hard to do without knowledge of the lock internals)

While I take no responsibility anyhow, (for something that works AOK for me),
I take even less (!) for any cutting or looping at any place other than at the end source: the steering lock.

Information from the steering lock goes every-which-way by routes actually unknown...just as the lock maker (not Nissan) and Nissan intend.

My objective included the ability, but not necessity, to fit a switch "for gummt inspections" or as "extra" (not less) security in insecure areas....etc.

FYI: see my other posts on this damned lock...I know it inside (and out). There was/is just no logical reason for the BDM (et al) to throw a light or give other drama....or I'd not have used my car as a guinea pig.

"A harness addition" at the lock ? AOK and smooth if you need the switch. If not just cut the wire. As an afterthought one could still hire an "electronic kid" to solder in a switch ...
[a switch can go high up on the left ankle (fuse box) panel which is easily removed for drilling or cutting. A switch wire can be neatly taped back on the steering lock harness].

Small warning (though I'm interested!)..Any work further back up the harness could go expensively awry, especially if using the shop manual for information which it will not, and in fact cannot give you on a security matter...think about it...

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Old 04-29-2012, 02:03 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Good words of warning Fritz. Thanks again.
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Old 04-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #102 (permalink)
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I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:37 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill.
Completely agree. Having a switch would be useful for this purpose, but otherwise, can't really think of a reason to use it. I'm also down in case anyone can mock up a few test harnesses.
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Old 04-29-2012, 06:55 PM   #104 (permalink)
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I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill.
Exactly. And supposedly the new 2012's don't have the steering lock...
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:39 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Yeah no lock in the 2012.
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