I'll buy a wiring harness if its < $100 shipped.

Correct. That's what we're going for.

I am in too!! :excited:

I'm in pending it works.

In here!

id do it too, but would prefer the connector.

so basically turn the car to ACC (listen for the lock to wind and unlock), then unplug car harness from steering-lock, plug one end of the new bdl99-hotwire harness to the car harness and the other end to the steering-lock (?) :confused:

This is how i'm thinking/hoping it will work.

Sound interesting let see...

Ok on a functioning lock with the soon to be made dummy plug/hotwire harness installed. How will we know it's working? When the car is off (w/the plug installed) we shouldn't have a key light on and we should be able the turn the wheel? Will this tell us what we want to know?

Right :tup:

That's the idea. The steering wheel should move freely as if the lock doesn't exist, and the light *should* remain off.

This is why I wanted to try to get a couple of plugs first so I could do some R&D first, then share my findings... I don't want to cut up my wire harness to do testing.

I'm assuming from the fix Frtiz has suggested that the 2 wires that go to the BCM and IPDM will stil register unlocked. I don't know if there will be problems down the road because the BCM is also monitoring the driver door, ignition, key, etc... It may throw a code or service light... Not sure. If someone is willing to cut a wire, we'll have another tester...

:tup:

With Fritz's fix the "state" signal to the BCM should still exist since that is a passive signal that loops through the lock through the contact closure switches. I don't foresee any BCM/IPDM problems.

The power cut prevents the lock from being able to change state or report any problem. My end goal is to identify the "loop through" signals and make a loop back connector so the lock can be completely disconnected and removed for those that desire.

Much much rep for this my good man....:tiphat::tup::driving:

So, we just need to figure out what to do with Wire #111, if anything at all. Wire 97 will need 12v, wire 98 and 106 need 0v. Have you tried that with wire 111 at 0v or even not connected?

Sub'd and in for pics.

I haven't been able to do anything yet as I don't want to hack my wire harness to pieces. Once I get the connector I will be able to do more experiments and measurements. Also once the wire numbers are identified at the lock end of things it will be a lot easier.

I'm in the same boat as you. We should be able to get this figured out.

I'm in if it works too. Great work guys !

GaleForce wrote:

I'm in the same boat as you. We should be able to get this figured out.

There's a whole lot of "figuring out" goin' on! (Hard to do without knowledge of the lock internals)

While I take no responsibility anyhow, (for something that works AOK for me),
I take even less (!) for any cutting or looping at any place other than at the end source: the steering lock.

Information from the steering lock goes every-which-way by routes actually unknown...just as the lock maker (not Nissan) and Nissan intend.

My objective included the ability, but not necessity, to fit a switch "for gummt inspections" or as "extra" (not less) security in insecure areas....etc.

FYI: see my other posts on this damned lock...I know it inside (and out). There was/is just no logical reason for the BDM (et al) to throw a light or give other drama....or I'd not have used my car as a guinea pig.

"A harness addition" at the lock ? AOK and smooth if you need the switch. If not just cut the wire. As an afterthought one could still hire an "electronic kid" to solder in a switch ...
[a switch can go high up on the left ankle (fuse box) panel which is easily removed for drilling or cutting. A switch wire can be neatly taped back on the steering lock harness].

Small warning (though I'm interested!)..Any work further back up the harness could go expensively awry, especially if using the shop manual for information which it will not, and in fact cannot give you on a security matter...think about it...

Fritz

Good words of warning Fritz. Thanks again.

I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill.

Completely agree. Having a switch would be useful for this purpose, but otherwise, can't really think of a reason to use it. I'm also down in case anyone can mock up a few test harnesses.

Exactly. And supposedly the new 2012's don't have the steering lock...

Yeah no lock in the 2012.

it can be a security feature if you park towards a wall, turn your steering wheel and shut the car down so that it would be very difficult to tow out of its spot. of course once can use a lift and wheel dolly..

but yah, most of the lock's feature is geared towards safety.

ChrisSlicks wrote:
I disagree that the steering lock is a security measure in a modern car. The only way to steal a modern car is to either have the key, by-pass the key system by applying power to various bits between the BCM and ECM (tricky and time consuming), or load it onto a flat bed trailer. Gone are the days of ripping wires out under the dash and touching them together (hot wiring). The only useful purpose the lock serves is to hold the wheels steady when parked on a hill. __________________

I agree..and disagree. It's legislators and special interests groups and lobyists who bless us with this apparent rubbish when they have nothing better to do than protect us from ourselves...aided by Nissan and other makers....who have similar problems with similar locks...maybe not as bad,
but on some BMWs you need to renew the whole steeering column.

.....and now they want...strike that.."have managed" to make testing the device a part of a vehicle annual "safety check". (My "B" lock lasted 12,000 miles in "average" cycles almost equating, I guess, to a DD in 16 months.)

As an aside, there's a few articles out there as to how easy it is to steal electronic key information: the right receiver near the car when the key is used can pick up the data....and use it on "you" later.

The new parking brake gizmo (2012?) recognises the electronic lock as ... er.. rubbish, apparently....but it seems a wire cutter might "fix" a hand-brake too !

An open-topped shipping container on a truck with a crane and the car's gone in a minute. It happens.

Fritz

This is very cool. I hope someone can make a harness for us. Someone could also contact Wiring Specialties. They might be interested.

I've already signed up to make the harness and just as an update:

Timing was actually good because I was placing a large order for other connectors from the same series so they will be on their way from Japan soon.

I have only order enough for a few of you to test (see earlier post) and give feedback. Based on what I've seen and the good work done by Fritz and others, for me it really isn't about proving it works but rather things like:

• Length of cable
• To include a switch or not

1. I would include the switch.

2. The harness can be any length. I would say 6-8" would be plenty. The new harness is just an extension of the existing harness with a on/off switch installed.

:happydance:

That is the current thinking, but people actually having samples will help refine the details, for example:
With the switch it was more a case of any particular switch and low long to make those wires. The test harness (for the 3 or 4 testers) will have the wires to easily add the switch without having to play with the car harness but the hope is they will be able to recommend a switch and location that works well etc.

bdl99- for me, i would go without the switch. it defeats the purpose. if i want the steering lock to function i would just let it work the way designed with no attachments.

if i want to disable the steering lock, then plug in your hotwire connector (or watever you will name it) and just forget that my car even had a steering lock. :)

I agree with what kenchan said because from what I can tell if the lock fails in the locked position is when you have the problem. Even if you have a switch if it fails the switch does not do anything for you. what most of us like is knowing we will not be stranded in the woods. I think a simple bypass connector that goes between the harness and the lock is the way to go.

:iagree: For me the bypass connector is what i'd be looking for. Having an 09 with the original rev b lock, i cross my fingers every time i go to start it.

I see no reason for a switch either

Word. Like stated before the switch kind of defeats the purpose of the harness. If I would have seen the earlier post I would have volunteered to be a tester! If you have any extras I will still purchase and be a guinea pig.

Yes, good point. I forgot he was going to make the harness with the #1 wire out of the connector.

Forget the switch.

Dragonbreath wrote
Word. Like stated before the switch kind of defeats the purpose of the harness. If I would have seen the earlier post I would have volunteered to be a tester! If you have any extras I will still purchase and be a guinea pig.

The absolute simplicity of a switch is hard to "get" ...granted. The harness makes it easier to fit ...see previous posts as the original length is "short" (though just OK for
acrobats to work on.
Switch position:
Turned off (disconnected) with lock disengaged = lock cycles reduced to zero...the main objective, as "cycling" increases microswitch and relays silica deposits.
Turned off (no misprint there) with lock engaged = no barstewart can start it unless he knows where the switch is ... If he switches on ... he has the standard Nissan intended problem of stealing the car.
Turned on (whether originally at "lock" or "unlocked") = lock operating normally (it sorts itself out, no prob).

The simplicity? Too good to be true .. but it isn't !

Fritz

bdl99, why not just leave the switch out, but the #1 wire left in the harness (cut or uncut, I don't care). Those of us who wish to use a switch can wire it ourselves, those of us who don't want to use a switch, no extra cost/complication this way. Right?