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I'll take a straight harness without a switch. I don't see the need for a switch while parking. If I want to reactivate the lock function for example, if I were to trade in or sell the car, I would reconnect the original plug. And probably leave the harness in the glovebox with a note on what it is and how to install, at the owner's risk. My '09 model's warranty expires in September and my biggest fear is that the lock will fail stranding me somewhere. Put me down for one as soon as they are available and the functioning is verified to be problem free.
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I have been monitoring the threads relating to the failed steering locks for some time now and am definitely interested in some form of bypass mechanism. With or without the switch, I want one.
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C U T T H E W I R E !
Problem solved PERIOD |
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I can't bear reading through 10 pages so I'm just going to post. Why not just cut the brown wire, strip the ends with some length on them and leave them taped off? If you actually need to prove the lock works for some random inspection, just remove the tape and twist the stripped wires together.
If you want a switch on it, just use some telephone wire taps from Radioshack on each end of the severed wire. |
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It should work, we're just waiting for someone else to cut up their harness first. If my warranty was expired I would do the wire mod. :tup: |
Bdl99 will have his harness ready for the few testers he has pre-arranged a beta for with his harness. As soon as these are tested everyone will know if cutting the wire works or not because it will be simulating that exact same electrical signal as if you did the cut wire method. So this will tell everyone if it does or does not work! I would wait until after this before any one does any unnecessary cutting just to safe them from possible problems. Then if it does work you can make your decision on whether to cut the wire or spend a lil $ and get the harness!?!?!?........
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I think I have an automotive connector pin removal tool somewhere in the garage, shouldn't it be possible just to remove the pin in question from the connector body and then reconnect with it out effectively "cutting" the wire?
Then when the test is done just re-insert the pin and everything is back to normal with no evidence of tampering for warranty etc. Just need to find my removal tool..... |
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