DIY: Illuminated Kick Plates

ejrives · 06-05-2009, 04:59 AM

Hey all, finally got my kick plates in and decided to write up a DIY since I didn't see one on here. Sorry about the lighting in some of the pics.

I'd give this project an overall difficulty of 2 out of 5. It took me about an hour or so to install.

Tools:

Scissors, clip removal tool or similar screwdriver, towel and rubbing alcohol.

Parts included in kit

Removing inner trim-piece

another shot of inner trim.

To remove this , gently pull up , from the top, between the weather stripping , closest to you..., NOT from the floor up. There's a part in the trim towards the middle and the floor that looks like a handle, do not pull up that way!
Work your fingers between the weather stripping and the trim and gently pry up. Start in the middle and work your way to the edges, there are 5 pawls connecting this to the car.

Next, remove outer kick-plate

You'll see the colors, red is a clip , requiring a clip removal tool or a standard screwdriver ( if using the screwdriver, wrap in a towel or something to protect your paint ) ; Yellow is a pawl , you can remove these without a tool.

The outer has 4 total items holding it on , 2 pawls in the center and 2 clips on the ends. Work your screwdriver, fingers, or removal tool in the middle and gently pull up, the 2 center pawls come up really easy. Now get your tool or screwdriver and push in on each end clip , releasing it and pulling the kick plate up and out.

Remove the inner, upper kick plate by unscrewing this "push nut" ( little black thing above foot rest ) and by gently pulling the piece out , towards the center console. This was really easy to remove, no force at all. There are two pawls, no tools required

piece removed.

Now remove passenger side pieces from your car with the same procedures as above...Pic included of passenger side "push nut" on the inner upper kick-plate. The passenger side is a little harder than the driver side, in my opinion.

Now that you have the passenger side apart, we're ready to start installing the T-Harness and routing the wires. On the passenger side, you'll notice the BCM , with numerous harnesses plugged into it. You need to pull the one outlined in blue. NOTE: I recommend getting a small screwdriver and prying this plug gently out from the side closest to you. The lock is on the bottom and there's a perfect little leverage area that works perfect. If you have small hands --disregard.

Plug the T harness ( female end) into the male end you just removed. Then plug the male end on the harness into where the factory one was at.Now get your urethane tape ( 4 pieces ) ready and zip ties ( one big and two small ) .
Cover the inline fuse with two pieces of tape and the t-harness connection that you plugged in. The next pic is how it should look taped and zip tied. Cut the zip tie ends off too. I left them on in the pic to demonstrate.

The inline fuse gets zip-tied to the wiring conduit too ( upper right of the harness) . Use the big tie for the harness plug. Use the other small tied closer to the door, There's another smaller conduit there.Time to run the wires. Longer wire goes to the driver side.

Remove another pushnut behind the passenger carpet, it's in the middle and about one inch down, then pull the carpet back and use four pieces of tape to secure this. Run the passenger wire too. I forgot to take pics of running the wire up the sides , but it's not too bad.

You can see in the below pics, that the carpet is hooked within the clips that hold the trim in. Pull this out gently ( carpet ) , revealing the conduit running down the car and the clips fully. You have to run the passenger wire down and connect these with a half piece of tape at the bottom of the clips, on the outside, facing the center console. make sure you don't cover the bottom part of the clip, otherwise the trim wont click back in right.

Remove the middle push nut on the drive side floor, towards the firewall and pull the carpet back towards you and get ready to route the incoming wire under the accelerator mounting bracket, under the carpet!
Here's where the fish tape comes in handy, you can do it by hand too.

You have to run the driver side wire behind the dash, from the passenger side. I used the spot behind the floor vents, they're about in the same spot on both sides and there's a slight gap there. Once it's routed though, run it under the accelerator bracket and under the foam footrest and tape like below. Use the same process for running the wire down the side after you have it secured on the floor. Use two zip ties , securing similar to the other side. Almost there.

now it's time to test the fruit of your labor. Plug them in and test while everything is still apart. If it's good, start re-installing everything in reverse order. Carpet, pushnuts, and inner upper kick plates and illuminated kick plates. Remove a clip from the bag and insert into the kick plate bottom, Notice that sticky tape has taken the spot of on of the clips on each side. Clean the paint over where the kick goes with alcohol before you snap this piece in, remember to remove the brown strip covering the tape. Install the same way you removed and press down firmly over the tape part. Almost done

you need to split another piece of provided tape in half, remove the weather stripping , by pulling up and taping the flange or ridge in the middle and running the wire over the tape and taping again . After the wire is over on the inside of the car now, use a full piece of tape on the harness and neatly bunch the wires and zip tie and put the weather stripping back on

Now all you have to do is put the inner trim back on and you're done.

Junior370z · 06-05-2009, 09:54 AM

Nice write up! Hoping to get mine soon. I will definately be using this D.I.Y.

LUN-TAI-0 · 06-25-2009, 09:04 PM

Do you know what type of light bulb is it. I wanted to change the color of it....

SoCal 370Z · 06-25-2009, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUN-TAI-0

Do you know what type of light bulb is it. I wanted to change the color of it....

They are LED lighting.

Cjanik · 06-26-2009, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUN-TAI-0

Do you know what type of light bulb is it. I wanted to change the color of it....

DIY: illuminated kick plates color change

Cjanik · 07-19-2009, 12:16 PM

If any of you wanted White, nows your chance to get the ones I made without the work:

Ebay ID # 120449831784
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/370Z-...Q5fAccessories

grebnasticle · 07-24-2009, 07:46 PM

Thanks much for the DIY - I had my laptop out in the garage for some quick references and it was really helpful. The kick plates look really good installed...especially at night. Good stuff

jookiyaya · 08-29-2009, 05:14 PM

took me about 3 and a half hours. just being extremely careful.
i felt so bad for getting these kick plates for free because on the "how much did you pay for your z i had reduced the salesman to shambles..." forum ... well long story.. anyways i installed them.
looks great! awesome thread!!!

the hardest part was removing the connector from the passenger side, and then trying to pull the carpet back without tearing the glue sticking to the styrofoam padding. couldnt tape the wires but wedged them very securely and still routed them to the driver's side. ^_^

i was contemplating the frosty white Z led but the thin aluminum i had to take apart was too much for me; didnt want to take the risk. once i had that done... FLAWLESS!

the orange isnt bad... i just reized the pics and cut side by side.

as for the old kickplates i noticed the Z is very similar to the same Z logo on the back, its a tiny bit bigger, but would be great with the fairlady logo if those are looking to mod that....it can be taken off easily and even used as an alternate Z logo for the hamburger logo perhaps? still thinking on what it can apply to but if anyone wants to buy the standard kickplates let me know =)

my old kickplates on my baby ^_^

bigaudiofanat · 08-29-2009, 11:00 PM

Nice but Jook I have to ask aren't those seats like... sticking out like a sore thumb I mean orange in a white z.

simota1 · 08-30-2009, 10:22 PM

nice one jook!!! imam get my sills also... when i save up mwahahhaha

jookiyaya · 09-12-2009, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Nice but Jook I have to ask aren't those seats like... sticking out like a sore thumb I mean orange in a white z.

lol thats exactly what my girlfriend says, she thinks it looks like a big 'clown'.
I think it looks like my new gf ^_^ haha j/k. but shes sexy!!!

mikeyt750 · 09-13-2009, 07:36 PM

I just used the DIY. Thanks man, mine came out great on my Nismo. Got a question though. The little red lenses on the door dont light up anymore. (Can't remember if they did before), if so Is that normal?

2theextreme · 09-13-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyt750

I just used the DIY. Thanks man, mine came out great on my Nismo. Got a question though. The little red lenses on the door dont light up anymore. (Can't remember if they did before), if so Is that normal?

I noticed this today for the first time.....not sure about the NISMO but the 370Z "lights" on the doors are only reflectors. I thought I had broke something after replacing my map lights and license plate lights.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong....but no lights in the doors on the Z?

Cjanik · 09-15-2009, 01:55 AM

there's no lights on the doors

I just checked.

2theextreme · 09-15-2009, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cjanik

there's no lights on the doors

I just checked.

Whew...good! Thought I might have messed something up. Hmmm....I wonder....could the reflectors be replaced lights? Say......BLUE ones?

06-05-2009, 04:59 AM	#1 (permalink)
ejrives A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Illinois Posts: 1,449 Drives: 09-6MT-T/S/N Rep Power: 18	DIY: Illuminated Kick Plates Hey all, finally got my kick plates in and decided to write up a DIY since I didn't see one on here. Sorry about the lighting in some of the pics. I'd give this project an overall difficulty of 2 out of 5. It took me about an hour or so to install. Tools: Scissors, clip removal tool or similar screwdriver, towel and rubbing alcohol. Parts included in kit Removing inner trim-piece another shot of inner trim. To remove this , gently pull up , from the top, between the weather stripping , closest to you..., NOT from the floor up. There's a part in the trim towards the middle and the floor that looks like a handle, do not pull up that way! Work your fingers between the weather stripping and the trim and gently pry up. Start in the middle and work your way to the edges, there are 5 pawls connecting this to the car. Next, remove outer kick-plate You'll see the colors, red is a clip , requiring a clip removal tool or a standard screwdriver ( if using the screwdriver, wrap in a towel or something to protect your paint ) ; Yellow is a pawl , you can remove these without a tool. The outer has 4 total items holding it on , 2 pawls in the center and 2 clips on the ends. Work your screwdriver, fingers, or removal tool in the middle and gently pull up, the 2 center pawls come up really easy. Now get your tool or screwdriver and push in on each end clip , releasing it and pulling the kick plate up and out. Remove the inner, upper kick plate by unscrewing this "push nut" ( little black thing above foot rest ) and by gently pulling the piece out , towards the center console. This was really easy to remove, no force at all. There are two pawls, no tools required piece removed. Now remove passenger side pieces from your car with the same procedures as above...Pic included of passenger side "push nut" on the inner upper kick-plate. The passenger side is a little harder than the driver side, in my opinion. Now that you have the passenger side apart, we're ready to start installing the T-Harness and routing the wires. On the passenger side, you'll notice the BCM , with numerous harnesses plugged into it. You need to pull the one outlined in blue. NOTE: I recommend getting a small screwdriver and prying this plug gently out from the side closest to you. The lock is on the bottom and there's a perfect little leverage area that works perfect. If you have small hands --disregard. Plug the T harness ( female end) into the male end you just removed. Then plug the male end on the harness into where the factory one was at.Now get your urethane tape ( 4 pieces ) ready and zip ties ( one big and two small ) . Cover the inline fuse with two pieces of tape and the t-harness connection that you plugged in. The next pic is how it should look taped and zip tied. Cut the zip tie ends off too. I left them on in the pic to demonstrate. The inline fuse gets zip-tied to the wiring conduit too ( upper right of the harness) . Use the big tie for the harness plug. Use the other small tied closer to the door, There's another smaller conduit there.Time to run the wires. Longer wire goes to the driver side. Remove another pushnut behind the passenger carpet, it's in the middle and about one inch down, then pull the carpet back and use four pieces of tape to secure this. Run the passenger wire too. I forgot to take pics of running the wire up the sides , but it's not too bad. You can see in the below pics, that the carpet is hooked within the clips that hold the trim in. Pull this out gently ( carpet ) , revealing the conduit running down the car and the clips fully. You have to run the passenger wire down and connect these with a half piece of tape at the bottom of the clips, on the outside, facing the center console. make sure you don't cover the bottom part of the clip, otherwise the trim wont click back in right. Remove the middle push nut on the drive side floor, towards the firewall and pull the carpet back towards you and get ready to route the incoming wire under the accelerator mounting bracket, under the carpet! Here's where the fish tape comes in handy, you can do it by hand too. You have to run the driver side wire behind the dash, from the passenger side. I used the spot behind the floor vents, they're about in the same spot on both sides and there's a slight gap there. Once it's routed though, run it under the accelerator bracket and under the foam footrest and tape like below. Use the same process for running the wire down the side after you have it secured on the floor. Use two zip ties , securing similar to the other side. Almost there. now it's time to test the fruit of your labor. Plug them in and test while everything is still apart. If it's good, start re-installing everything in reverse order. Carpet, pushnuts, and inner upper kick plates and illuminated kick plates. Remove a clip from the bag and insert into the kick plate bottom, Notice that sticky tape has taken the spot of on of the clips on each side. Clean the paint over where the kick goes with alcohol before you snap this piece in, remember to remove the brown strip covering the tape. Install the same way you removed and press down firmly over the tape part. Almost done you need to split another piece of provided tape in half, remove the weather stripping , by pulling up and taping the flange or ridge in the middle and running the wire over the tape and taping again . After the wire is over on the inside of the car now, use a full piece of tape on the harness and neatly bunch the wires and zip tie and put the weather stripping back on Now all you have to do is put the inner trim back on and you're done. cames4, xxAGAVExx, Corsairprime and 2 others like this. __________________ "In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." Stillen G3 CAI \|\| 35% tints \|\| FI CBE coming soon...

06-05-2009, 09:54 AM	#2 (permalink)
Junior370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Las Vegas Age: 50 Posts: 1,024 Drives: over the speed limit Rep Power: 293	Nice write up! Hoping to get mine soon. I will definately be using this D.I.Y. __________________ DON'T DO IT! ( Click to show/hide ) Stillen CBECAI-U/D PulleyGround KitSwaysSetrab Oil CoolerIchiba Rear Camber KitAgility CoiloverBerk HFCTechnosquare TuneGT-R ButtonVenaci MeshSP Performance Cross Drilled/Slotted RotorsSPC Toe BoltsBomex LipMud flapsAero Jacket Type III WingSold

08-29-2009, 05:14 PM	#8 (permalink)
jookiyaya Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: maryland Posts: 262 Drives: 2010 40th Z!?!? Rep Power: 16	installed illuminated kick plates finally! took me about 3 and a half hours. just being extremely careful. i felt so bad for getting these kick plates for free because on the "how much did you pay for your z i had reduced the salesman to shambles..." forum ... well long story.. anyways i installed them. looks great! awesome thread!!! the hardest part was removing the connector from the passenger side, and then trying to pull the carpet back without tearing the glue sticking to the styrofoam padding. couldnt tape the wires but wedged them very securely and still routed them to the driver's side. ^_^ i was contemplating the frosty white Z led but the thin aluminum i had to take apart was too much for me; didnt want to take the risk. once i had that done... FLAWLESS! the orange isnt bad... i just reized the pics and cut side by side. as for the old kickplates i noticed the Z is very similar to the same Z logo on the back, its a tiny bit bigger, but would be great with the fairlady logo if those are looking to mod that....it can be taken off easily and even used as an alternate Z logo for the hamburger logo perhaps? still thinking on what it can apply to but if anyone wants to buy the standard kickplates let me know =) my old kickplates on my baby ^_^ __________________ "370z gives you wings!! " Last edited by jookiyaya; 08-29-2009 at 05:19 PM. Reason: update

08-29-2009, 11:00 PM	#9 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 853	Nice but Jook I have to ask aren't those seats like... sticking out like a sore thumb I mean orange in a white z. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

08-30-2009, 10:22 PM	#10 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 405	nice one jook!!! imam get my sills also... when i save up mwahahhaha __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

06-25-2009, 09:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
LUN-TAI-0 Base Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: s f Posts: 24 Drives: g35 Rep Power: 16	Do you know what type of light bulb is it. I wanted to change the color of it....

07-19-2009, 12:16 PM	#6 (permalink)
Cjanik Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 578 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 17	If any of you wanted White, nows your chance to get the ones I made without the work: Ebay ID # 120449831784 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/370Z-...Q5fAccessories

07-24-2009, 07:46 PM	#7 (permalink)
grebnasticle Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Philadelphia Posts: 70 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 16	Thanks much for the DIY - I had my laptop out in the garage for some quick references and it was really helpful. The kick plates look really good installed...especially at night. Good stuff

09-13-2009, 07:36 PM	#12 (permalink)
mikeyt750 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Jacksonville NC Posts: 29 Drives: 09 NISMO Rep Power: 16	I just used the DIY. Thanks man, mine came out great on my Nismo. Got a question though. The little red lenses on the door dont light up anymore. (Can't remember if they did before), if so Is that normal?

09-15-2009, 01:55 AM	#14 (permalink)
Cjanik Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 578 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 17	there's no lights on the doors I just checked.

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