DIY: Battery Relo

wstar · 09-29-2012, 02:06 PM

Removing the AC blower is a little tricky. Putting it back in is a total PITA. I ran my cable on the outside by the door, just under the carpet alongside where the existing wire loom runs. Also, while I drilled through for mine, another option I've seen people use is just to go through the big rubber grommet you can't miss in the upper passenger corner of the engine bay that carries a ton of small ECU-bound wires through (assuming your cable is flexible enough for that route).

O&G · 01-16-2013, 03:15 PM

reped guys, awesome thread. I'll be doing this very soon. Great write up WSTAR. I'll PM you when I start this little project, maybe you can swing by the shop and coach! Looking forward to getting the Z on the track this year!

wstar · 10-22-2013, 02:11 PM

The car is off at the cage builder right now, so I can't snap pics. TBH, you don't really need to drill that hole anyways, it's just what I did because it was expedient at the time to stop thinking and just do something

You can always run the cable the way travis did, up through the rubber grommet that carries a bunch of ECU wiring through the upper corner there near the battery tray / AC blower. Or if you're doing an all-out race car conversion and killing the AC anyways, there are multiple leftover AC-related holes to reuse.

I ended up unrelocating my battery at the end of the day. What's far simpler than relocating any battery is to put a ultra-super-light battery in the stock location. This 3.5lb battery works fine on our car: Batteries - Ballistic Performance Components , and you can buy them from several places if you google around. The downside is ~$200+, and it's very risky to drain them (basically, you risk ruining the expensive battery permanently if you let residual drain take it below 8V, which isn't hard to do if anything's running without the engine). But honestly, that's worth not doing the battery relocate work, and this battery weighs about as much as the wiring and circuit protection for a relocate job, much less the (larger) relocated battery itself.

Another interesting option is this thing: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10410

It's 8.4 lbs, same internals as my tiny battery (but even more capacity than mine, and mine starts the engine fine), and they've built the battery manager into the unit so that it can't be killed by draining and always charges optimally. If you're more concerned about draining and battery ruin, it might be worth the 5lbs extra weight and $600 more to have a battery that will really last and doesn't have to be babied, but is still light enough that it makes sense to retain the stock location.

markthomas69 · 10-25-2013, 05:50 PM

Cool,

Thank you for the information. What are your thoughts about the Odyssey batter?

wstar · 10-25-2013, 09:05 PM

I had a couple of Odyssey's PC680's in the car (meaning one eventually went bad after a long time, then I put in another) before I switched to the little Evo2. They work great in this car, and they're considerably lighter than stock no matter where you put them. TBH, you're getting most of the benefit just putting a PC680 in the stock location. Everything beyond that (relocation and/or smaller and more-expensive battery) is just hyper-optimizing for smaller gains. I mean, I do it, but that doesn't mean sane people should do it

markthomas69 · 10-27-2013, 12:10 PM

I am going to go with the PC680 trunk mount. I have the cables (free) and battery mount (also free). I will only need to purchase the battery so why not. Thanks for all the tips and advice.

SunsetZ · 11-16-2013, 11:57 AM

How do these smaller "race" batteries compare to the stocker with respect to cold cranking amps, lifespan, and reliability?

wstar · 11-16-2013, 02:19 PM

It's hard to directly compare on the numbers, the numbers all mean different things for different battery technologies. The PC680 is pretty much universally fine on this car, though, assuming you're don't have a huge stereo and/or leave anything electrical on with the engine off for extended periods. The little LiFePo4 ones, though, are pretty marginal - fine for a racecar, but probably not a reliable DD option. They struggle in the cold (it does warm itself with each start attempt though, so it usually catches by the 2nd or 3rd try even in near-freezing temps) - and it's easy to destroy them by over-draining them.

josemartinrea · 02-07-2017, 11:41 PM

Would it be okay to use a 4 gauge wire instead of the 1/0? Also, am I able to use the same kind of wire people use to power amplifiers for sound systems or does it need to be a specific kind?

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SouthArk370Z · 02-08-2017, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by josemartinrea

Would it be okay to use a 4 gauge wire instead of the 1/0? Also, am I able to use the same kind of wire people use to power amplifiers for sound systems or does it need to be a specific kind?

I wouldn't recommend it. 4 AWG wire is only rated for about 90 Amps while 1/0 AWG is rated for about 170 Amps. The voltage drop (and heat generated) will be greater at high loads (eg, starting).

The conductor material is not important but you will have to use a larger conductor if you use aluminum instead of copper. The total resistance of the wiring run is the critical factor - bigger wire has less resistance per foot. You can use "exotic" stereo wiring, but it's expensive and not cost-effective for the minuscule gains.

The more strands in the conductor, the more flexible the wire will be (assuming the same insulation). 1/0 AWG with a solid conductor is VERY stiff and difficult to install; 1/0 AWG welding cable (~1000 strands) is down right limp.

josemartinrea · 02-08-2017, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

I wouldn't recommend it. 4 AWG wire is only rated for about 90 Amps while 1/0 AWG is rated for about 170 Amps. The voltage drop (and heat generated) will be greater at high loads (eg, starting).

The conductor material is not important but you will have to use a larger conductor if you use aluminum instead of copper. The total resistance of the wiring run is the critical factor - bigger wire has less resistance per foot. You can use "exotic" stereo wiring, but it's expensive and not cost-effective for the minuscule gains.

The more strands in the conductor, the more flexible the wire will be (assuming the same insulation). 1/0 AWG with a solid conductor is VERY stiff and difficult to install; 1/0 AWG welding cable (~1000 strands) is down right limp.

Thanks for the info. So definitely 1/0 AWG.

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josemartinrea · 02-09-2017, 10:33 AM

https://m.lowes.com/pd/1-0-AWG-Stran...-Foot/50101588 would this work?

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Rid3_FaM0uS · 02-09-2017, 12:42 PM

i would go more strands than that. thats like a commercial/industrial installation 1-0 check local electrical suppliers more so than lowes/home depot etc. they will be able to access a much more in depth selection of wiring for you. aside from this wire being extremely uncooperative to run through a car then you also have to deal with crimping lugs on, or sourcing a heavy duty lug to terminate the wire to the battery. To simply put this is overkill" for a car. like Ark said you can always check local stereo install shops for wiring. while this stuff is usually around the 12-20$/ft mark it is plenty stranded and tends to have a nice protective gel coating perfect for installations such as this.
Good luck with your hunting man!

josemartinrea · 02-09-2017, 12:45 PM

Thanks man! I've called a few stereo shops and it seems that's it's something they don't carry in stock. It sure is a hunt! I'm also having trouble looking for a battery box so I'm thinking I'll have to make one.

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Rid3_FaM0uS · 02-09-2017, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by josemartinrea

Thanks man! I've called a few stereo shops and it seems that's it's something they don't carry in stock. It sure is a hunt! I'm also having trouble looking for a battery box so I'm thinking I'll have to make one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

they honest to god are'nt really tough to fab up yourself if you have a vice and a drill with a good set of bits. The wiring you're trying to source is pretty install specific so I'm not surprised you're having some troubles there. I did as well until an actual sound competition shop moved in locally to me, and they tend to have that stuff ready at all times in case they need to build/change a system on a whim.

09-29-2012, 02:06 PM	#1 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Removing the AC blower is a little tricky. Putting it back in is a total PITA. I ran my cable on the outside by the door, just under the carpet alongside where the existing wire loom runs. Also, while I drilled through for mine, another option I've seen people use is just to go through the big rubber grommet you can't miss in the upper passenger corner of the engine bay that carries a ton of small ECU-bound wires through (assuming your cable is flexible enough for that route). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-16-2013, 03:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	reped guys, awesome thread. I'll be doing this very soon. Great write up WSTAR. I'll PM you when I start this little project, maybe you can swing by the shop and coach! Looking forward to getting the Z on the track this year! __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal

10-22-2013, 02:11 PM	#3 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	The car is off at the cage builder right now, so I can't snap pics. TBH, you don't really need to drill that hole anyways, it's just what I did because it was expedient at the time to stop thinking and just do something You can always run the cable the way travis did, up through the rubber grommet that carries a bunch of ECU wiring through the upper corner there near the battery tray / AC blower. Or if you're doing an all-out race car conversion and killing the AC anyways, there are multiple leftover AC-related holes to reuse. I ended up unrelocating my battery at the end of the day. What's far simpler than relocating any battery is to put a ultra-super-light battery in the stock location. This 3.5lb battery works fine on our car: Batteries - Ballistic Performance Components , and you can buy them from several places if you google around. The downside is ~$200+, and it's very risky to drain them (basically, you risk ruining the expensive battery permanently if you let residual drain take it below 8V, which isn't hard to do if anything's running without the engine). But honestly, that's worth not doing the battery relocate work, and this battery weighs about as much as the wiring and circuit protection for a relocate job, much less the (larger) relocated battery itself. Another interesting option is this thing: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10410 It's 8.4 lbs, same internals as my tiny battery (but even more capacity than mine, and mine starts the engine fine), and they've built the battery manager into the unit so that it can't be killed by draining and always charges optimally. If you're more concerned about draining and battery ruin, it might be worth the 5lbs extra weight and $600 more to have a battery that will really last and doesn't have to be babied, but is still light enough that it makes sense to retain the stock location. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

10-25-2013, 05:50 PM	#4 (permalink)
markthomas69 Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Little Elm, TX Posts: 66 Drives: 2010 370Z Red, auto Rep Power: 13	Cool, Thank you for the information. What are your thoughts about the Odyssey batter? __________________ Beluga catback exhaust and Y-Pipe. Sport brakes upgrade. 24 row oil cooler. Battery relocated to the trunk.

10-25-2013, 09:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	I had a couple of Odyssey's PC680's in the car (meaning one eventually went bad after a long time, then I put in another) before I switched to the little Evo2. They work great in this car, and they're considerably lighter than stock no matter where you put them. TBH, you're getting most of the benefit just putting a PC680 in the stock location. Everything beyond that (relocation and/or smaller and more-expensive battery) is just hyper-optimizing for smaller gains. I mean, I do it, but that doesn't mean sane people should do it __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

10-27-2013, 12:10 PM	#6 (permalink)
markthomas69 Base Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Little Elm, TX Posts: 66 Drives: 2010 370Z Red, auto Rep Power: 13	I am going to go with the PC680 trunk mount. I have the cables (free) and battery mount (also free). I will only need to purchase the battery so why not. Thanks for all the tips and advice. __________________ Beluga catback exhaust and Y-Pipe. Sport brakes upgrade. 24 row oil cooler. Battery relocated to the trunk.

11-16-2013, 11:57 AM	#7 (permalink)
SunsetZ Base Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Orlando Posts: 70 Drives: on the edge Rep Power: 12	How do these smaller "race" batteries compare to the stocker with respect to cold cranking amps, lifespan, and reliability?

11-16-2013, 02:19 PM	#8 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	It's hard to directly compare on the numbers, the numbers all mean different things for different battery technologies. The PC680 is pretty much universally fine on this car, though, assuming you're don't have a huge stereo and/or leave anything electrical on with the engine off for extended periods. The little LiFePo4 ones, though, are pretty marginal - fine for a racecar, but probably not a reliable DD option. They struggle in the cold (it does warm itself with each start attempt though, so it usually catches by the 2nd or 3rd try even in near-freezing temps) - and it's easy to destroy them by over-draining them. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

02-07-2017, 11:41 PM	#9 (permalink)
josemartinrea Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 81 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Would it be okay to use a 4 gauge wire instead of the 1/0? Also, am I able to use the same kind of wire people use to power amplifiers for sound systems or does it need to be a specific kind? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-09-2017, 10:33 AM	#12 (permalink)
josemartinrea Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 81 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 12	https://m.lowes.com/pd/1-0-AWG-Stran...-Foot/50101588 would this work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-09-2017, 12:42 PM	#13 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	i would go more strands than that. thats like a commercial/industrial installation 1-0 check local electrical suppliers more so than lowes/home depot etc. they will be able to access a much more in depth selection of wiring for you. aside from this wire being extremely uncooperative to run through a car then you also have to deal with crimping lugs on, or sourcing a heavy duty lug to terminate the wire to the battery. To simply put this is overkill" for a car. like Ark said you can always check local stereo install shops for wiring. while this stuff is usually around the 12-20$/ft mark it is plenty stranded and tends to have a nice protective gel coating perfect for installations such as this. Good luck with your hunting man! __________________ Always under construction. . .

02-09-2017, 12:45 PM	#14 (permalink)
josemartinrea Base Member Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Texas Posts: 81 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Thanks man! I've called a few stereo shops and it seems that's it's something they don't carry in stock. It sure is a hunt! I'm also having trouble looking for a battery box so I'm thinking I'll have to make one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Rid3_FaM0uS likes this.

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