DIY: Sway bar installation (rear)

ChrisSlicks · 05-30-2009, 10:14 PM

This DIY describes the removal/installation of the rear sway bar.
For the front sway bar see here.

Tools required:
Jack stands
Torque wrench
12mm socket
14mm socket

Securely block front wheels, jack rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands. It is not necessary to remove the wheels but it does make access easier.

Loosen end links with 14mm socket but don't disconnect.

Disconnect rear exhaust from muffler, let the exhaust drop down gently.

Unbolt 4-point rear brace. Try to keep the 2 front bolts of the brace loosely connected to make reinstallation easier.

Remove sway bar clamps.

Disconnect end links. You should now be able to maneuver out the rear sway bar over the exhaust and rear brace. It is a fairly tight fit.

Grease bushings of new bar and install on bar.

Installation
- Slide in new bar
- Loosely connect end links in selected hole setting. Outer hole is softest setting, inner hole it tightest setting.
- Bolt clamps to chassis and tighten to 33 ft/lb
- Tighten end links to 41 ft/lb
- Reconnect rear exhaust and tighten bolts to 43 ft/lb

miguez · 05-31-2009, 09:22 AM

Thanks Chris!

It might be a good idea to place a link to the other sway bar install DIY post you made from this one and vice-versa?

g96818 · 05-31-2009, 10:12 PM

Nice DIY. I suggest you guys wait on Hotchkis to develop better sways or buy another brand who doesn't have that stopper welded on the bar. That weld joint creates a high stress concentration and possibly small cracks which could fail due to creep, which was exactly what happened to my last pair of Hotchkis.

miguez · 06-01-2009, 05:09 AM

Interesting feedback, g96818, thanks!

ChrisSlicks · 06-01-2009, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g96818

Nice DIY. I suggest you guys wait on Hotchkis to develop better sways or buy another brand who doesn't have that stopper welded on the bar. That weld joint creates a high stress concentration and possibly small cracks which could fail due to creep, which was exactly what happened to my last pair of Hotchkis.

Interesting point. I noticed the stock bar has a crimped on stopper.

shabarivas · 06-01-2009, 10:48 AM

+1 for torque specs

g96818 · 06-03-2009, 01:20 AM

it's crimped? well that might be a little better, but we'll see. i can't believe they are still making sways with that stopper. let us know if anything happens, hopefully they relieved the stresses.

sry if it seems like i'm bashing hotchkis, but great DIY write up

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Interesting point. I noticed the stock bar has a crimped on stopper.

ChrisSlicks · 06-03-2009, 09:10 AM

The stock bar has the stopper crimped. The Hotchkis has the stopper welded but it is only spot welded in 2 places, shouldn't create a large stress point ... hopefully. Time will tell I suppose.

Forrest · 06-06-2009, 02:53 PM

Wow chris. This looks so easy with your instructions i think i can do it my self.

ChrisSlicks · 06-06-2009, 08:09 PM

It really is easy even if you don't have a lot of mechanical experience. The front is a lot easier than the rear, especially if you synchronize it with an oil change as you have to remove the splash guard. After that the front is just a couple of bolts. The rear has the hassle of disconnecting the muffler from the exhaust pipe, but other than that it is a piece of cake. When you do the rear I would recommend that you remove one wheel to give yourself more room for sliding the bar in and out as you still have to get it over the rear brace. When you slide the new one in just make sure it is facing the right way or it wont fit

A torque wrench is definitely recommended, but if you don't have a torque wrench take care not to over-tighten the brackets in particular.

wstar · 06-19-2009, 06:44 PM

Just did the rear with the Stillen exhaust. With the muffler section detached (as above for the stock exhaust) and the rubber hangers disconnected it's barely doable. It's easier to just go ahead and disconnect the single center flange as well to get more play in the exhaust. I went with the medium setting for now. Now on to the front...

pulpz · 07-30-2009, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

It really is easy even if you don't have a lot of mechanical experience. The front is a lot easier than the rear, especially if you synchronize it with an oil change as you have to remove the splash guard. After that the front is just a couple of bolts. The rear has the hassle of disconnecting the muffler from the exhaust pipe, but other than that it is a piece of cake. When you do the rear I would recommend that you remove one wheel to give yourself more room for sliding the bar in and out as you still have to get it over the rear brace. When you slide the new one in just make sure it is facing the right way or it wont fit

A torque wrench is definitely recommended, but if you don't have a torque wrench take care not to over-tighten the brackets in particular.

Agreed. I think sway bar installs are a great way to practice working on your car. If you feel comfortable jacking the car, and changing the oil, then sways and brakes are a great next step in becoming a DIYer. Just take your time and don't get frustrated. Always good to have a second pair of hands around also.

I strongly urge always using a torque wrench. Its very important not to under or over torque. Most service manuals or Forums will have torque specs

boosted180 · 08-17-2009, 11:56 PM

chris, which setting did you use in the rear? how does the balance of the car feel now with both front and rear? at yesterday's auto-x, there was way too much body roll and more understeer than i'd like for auto-x (but for track, the bit of understeer is probably not too bad). sway bars would be a huge help. esp., if they could be adjusted to be a bit stiffer in the rear relative to front compared to stock.

i'm debating b/t hotchkis and stillen. need to decide soon.

thanks.

ChrisSlicks · 10-19-2009, 09:18 PM

Sorry, didn't see your post until now.

I went full stiff on the rear, but unfortunately without correcting the front camber you will actually get more low speed understeer due to the reduced body roll. If you add front camber arms in addition to the sway bars the car turns in amazingly. Adding either rear-sway or camber arms bumps you to BSP though.

I have -2.6 front camber, 0 toe, stock caster.
Rear is -2.0 camber, 0.125 toe-in.

1slow370 · 03-17-2010, 03:41 AM

don't forget to say to unbolt the large rear brace. I see you did it in a pic but didn't see the instruction for doing that there is now way to get that bar off with it still on.

05-30-2009, 10:14 PM	#1 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	DIY: Sway bar installation (rear) This DIY describes the removal/installation of the rear sway bar. For the front sway bar see here. Tools required: Jack stands Torque wrench 12mm socket 14mm socket Securely block front wheels, jack rear of vehicle and support securely on jack stands. It is not necessary to remove the wheels but it does make access easier. Loosen end links with 14mm socket but don't disconnect. Disconnect rear exhaust from muffler, let the exhaust drop down gently. Unbolt 4-point rear brace. Try to keep the 2 front bolts of the brace loosely connected to make reinstallation easier. Remove sway bar clamps. Disconnect end links. You should now be able to maneuver out the rear sway bar over the exhaust and rear brace. It is a fairly tight fit. Grease bushings of new bar and install on bar. Installation - Slide in new bar - Loosely connect end links in selected hole setting. Outer hole is softest setting, inner hole it tightest setting. - Bolt clamps to chassis and tighten to 33 ft/lb - Tighten end links to 41 ft/lb - Reconnect rear exhaust and tighten bolts to 43 ft/lb haitech and Zbrah like this. Last edited by ChrisSlicks; 03-17-2010 at 07:35 AM.

06-19-2009, 06:44 PM	#11 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Just did the rear with the Stillen exhaust. With the muffler section detached (as above for the stock exhaust) and the rubber hangers disconnected it's barely doable. It's easier to just go ahead and disconnect the single center flange as well to get more play in the exhaust. I went with the medium setting for now. Now on to the front... __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

03-17-2010, 03:41 AM	#15 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	don't forget to say to unbolt the large rear brace. I see you did it in a pic but didn't see the instruction for doing that there is now way to get that bar off with it still on. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

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05-31-2009, 09:22 AM	#2 (permalink)
miguez Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 359 Drives: '04 Cavalier Rep Power: 182	Thanks Chris! It might be a good idea to place a link to the other sway bar install DIY post you made from this one and vice-versa?

05-31-2009, 10:12 PM	#3 (permalink)
g96818 Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: A rock in a big pond Posts: 681 Drives: 2009 370Z, 2012 M56 Rep Power: 3394	Nice DIY. I suggest you guys wait on Hotchkis to develop better sways or buy another brand who doesn't have that stopper welded on the bar. That weld joint creates a high stress concentration and possibly small cracks which could fail due to creep, which was exactly what happened to my last pair of Hotchkis.

06-01-2009, 05:09 AM	#4 (permalink)
miguez Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 359 Drives: '04 Cavalier Rep Power: 182	Interesting feedback, g96818, thanks!

06-01-2009, 10:48 AM	#6 (permalink)
shabarivas A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 2,188 Drives: 370z MB 6mt Rep Power: 915	+1 for torque specs

06-03-2009, 09:10 AM	#8 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	The stock bar has the stopper crimped. The Hotchkis has the stopper welded but it is only spot welded in 2 places, shouldn't create a large stress point ... hopefully. Time will tell I suppose.

06-06-2009, 02:53 PM	#9 (permalink)
Forrest Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: california 707! Posts: 677 Drives: 09 370z Blk 6mt sprt Rep Power: 259	Wow chris. This looks so easy with your instructions i think i can do it my self.

06-06-2009, 08:09 PM	#10 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	It really is easy even if you don't have a lot of mechanical experience. The front is a lot easier than the rear, especially if you synchronize it with an oil change as you have to remove the splash guard. After that the front is just a couple of bolts. The rear has the hassle of disconnecting the muffler from the exhaust pipe, but other than that it is a piece of cake. When you do the rear I would recommend that you remove one wheel to give yourself more room for sliding the bar in and out as you still have to get it over the rear brace. When you slide the new one in just make sure it is facing the right way or it wont fit A torque wrench is definitely recommended, but if you don't have a torque wrench take care not to over-tighten the brackets in particular.

08-17-2009, 11:56 PM	#13 (permalink)
boosted180 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: long beach Posts: 188 Drives: '09 370z sport 6m Rep Power: 16	chris, which setting did you use in the rear? how does the balance of the car feel now with both front and rear? at yesterday's auto-x, there was way too much body roll and more understeer than i'd like for auto-x (but for track, the bit of understeer is probably not too bad). sway bars would be a huge help. esp., if they could be adjusted to be a bit stiffer in the rear relative to front compared to stock. i'm debating b/t hotchkis and stillen. need to decide soon. thanks.

10-19-2009, 09:18 PM	#14 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Sorry, didn't see your post until now. I went full stiff on the rear, but unfortunately without correcting the front camber you will actually get more low speed understeer due to the reduced body roll. If you add front camber arms in addition to the sway bars the car turns in amazingly. Adding either rear-sway or camber arms bumps you to BSP though. I have -2.6 front camber, 0 toe, stock caster. Rear is -2.0 camber, 0.125 toe-in.