DIY: Sway bar installation (front)

ChrisSlicks · 05-30-2009, 10:45 PM

This DIY describes replacing the front sway bar (stabilizer bar).
For the rear sway bar see here.

Tools required:
Jack stands
10mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
Torque wrench

Jack front of car and support securely with jack stands. It is not necessary to remove the wheels but you do get better access.

Remove undertray bolts using a 10mm socket (with optional electric driver). Remove plastic clips by popping center out with small flat screwdriver or finger nails.

Locate the end of the sway bar and loosen the end links with a 17mm socket or wrench. Leave loosely attached for now.

Remove the sway bar clamps with a 14mm socket.

Let the sway bar swing down. Disconnect the end links and remove the bar.

Preparing new bar by greasing the bushings.

Slide rubber bushing over bar and then add the clamp.

Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.
- Attach end-links loosely
- Swing bar up and mount clamps to body
- Tighten clamps to 38 ft/lbs
- Tighten end-links to 62 ft/lbs (hold link with 17mm open wrench)

- Reattach under tray with 10mm socket

nogoodname · 05-30-2009, 10:49 PM

nice DIY, have any pics to illustrate this better??

ChrisSlicks · 05-30-2009, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nogoodname007

nice DIY, have any pics to illustrate this better??

You don't see pics? Oops. The pics are there for me, I'll see if I can fix.

Edit: should be fixed now.

nogoodname · 05-30-2009, 10:52 PM

fixed.........i see them now......nice job

how does the ride feel now?? more stable at taking corners??

have you tried a hard turn with it on??

Musashi · 05-30-2009, 10:56 PM

The stiffer sway bars make a HUGE difference. I strongly recommend to all to enjoy anything from nice back roads to track time.

azn370z · 05-30-2009, 10:57 PM

Any chance you got the weight of the new versus old? Are you planning to replace the one in the rear?

ChrisSlicks · 05-30-2009, 10:58 PM

It feels a lot flatter in the corners. There is a down side however, it is now harder to load a corner of the car which may result in some unexpected turn in understeer. I'll be putting it to the test tomorrow with an auto-cross session.

nogoodname · 05-30-2009, 10:58 PM

thanks for the pic, i wasn't sure where to put the jacks exactly

ChrisSlicks · 05-30-2009, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by azn370z

Any chance you got the weight of the new versus old? Are you planning to replace the one in the rear?

I didn't measure them, but the new one is significantly heavier by probably 50%. I would guess that the old front was about 15 pounds, and the new front is around 23.

Rear install is complete, guide coming up.

miguez · 05-31-2009, 10:21 AM

Thank you Chris. Hotchkis?

ChrisSlicks · 05-31-2009, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miguez

Thank you Chris. Hotchkis?

Yes, these are the Hotchkis.

Got to test them out today at the auto-cross so I can give you guys some feedback.

The car feels a lot flatter in the corners but now has a little more turn-in understeer. Honestly I think the front bar is a little too large, something inbetween this and the stock is probably what we really want, at least for auto-cross style driving. At the track I think the bar setup might be okay as you usually don't have to aggressively transfer weight to the front corner. The car did feel more settled in higher speed slaloms. They really need to come out with a front bar designed for the Z rather than just assuming that the G37 will work good enough.

miguez · 05-31-2009, 07:10 PM

Alright, thanks for the feedback, hopefully they'll come out with a specific one soon! Anyone knows if the Stillen one is different from their G37 one? Their PDF instructions still say G35 on them.

g96818 · 05-31-2009, 11:10 PM

Nice DIY. I suggest you guys wait on Hotchkis to develop better sways or buy another brand who doesn't have that stopper welded on the bar. That weld joint creates a high stress concentration and possibly small cracks which could fail due to creep, which was exactly what happened to my last pair of Hotchkis.

wstar · 06-19-2009, 10:11 PM

Nice DIY again, just did mine. Only discrepancy: I don't think both sides of the end-link are 17mm, at least they weren't on my car. The nut you remove is 17, but the rear part you hold with an open wrench is larger, probably 19mm. I only had up to 18mm in open wrenches (at least that I could find), which also didn't fit over it, so I just opted for an adjustable wrench.

MursePaolo · 06-20-2009, 02:31 AM

how much did you pay for the set? if you don't mind. they look great btw.

05-30-2009, 10:45 PM	#1 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	DIY: Sway bar installation (front) This DIY describes replacing the front sway bar (stabilizer bar). For the rear sway bar see here. Tools required: Jack stands 10mm socket 14mm socket 17mm socket Torque wrench Jack front of car and support securely with jack stands. It is not necessary to remove the wheels but you do get better access. Remove undertray bolts using a 10mm socket (with optional electric driver). Remove plastic clips by popping center out with small flat screwdriver or finger nails. Locate the end of the sway bar and loosen the end links with a 17mm socket or wrench. Leave loosely attached for now. Remove the sway bar clamps with a 14mm socket. Let the sway bar swing down. Disconnect the end links and remove the bar. Preparing new bar by greasing the bushings. Slide rubber bushing over bar and then add the clamp. Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure. - Attach end-links loosely - Swing bar up and mount clamps to body - Tighten clamps to 38 ft/lbs - Tighten end-links to 62 ft/lbs (hold link with 17mm open wrench) - Reattach under tray with 10mm socket kenchan, njustidokite, rhd and 5 others like this. Last edited by ChrisSlicks; 06-01-2009 at 09:01 PM.

05-30-2009, 10:56 PM	#5 (permalink)
Musashi Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: New Jersey Posts: 357 Drives: 09 370Z 6speed Rep Power: 606	The stiffer sway bars make a HUGE difference. I strongly recommend to all to enjoy anything from nice back roads to track time. carlitos_370z likes this.

05-30-2009, 10:57 PM	#6 (permalink)
azn370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Seattle Posts: 1,722 Drives: z34 - R1 Rep Power: 490	Any chance you got the weight of the new versus old? Are you planning to replace the one in the rear? __________________ 2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts

06-19-2009, 10:11 PM	#14 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Nice DIY again, just did mine. Only discrepancy: I don't think both sides of the end-link are 17mm, at least they weren't on my car. The nut you remove is 17, but the rear part you hold with an open wrench is larger, probably 19mm. I only had up to 18mm in open wrenches (at least that I could find), which also didn't fit over it, so I just opted for an adjustable wrench. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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05-30-2009, 10:49 PM	#2 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1765	nice DIY, have any pics to illustrate this better??

05-30-2009, 10:52 PM	#4 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1765	fixed.........i see them now......nice job how does the ride feel now?? more stable at taking corners?? have you tried a hard turn with it on??

05-30-2009, 10:58 PM	#7 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	It feels a lot flatter in the corners. There is a down side however, it is now harder to load a corner of the car which may result in some unexpected turn in understeer. I'll be putting it to the test tomorrow with an auto-cross session.

05-30-2009, 10:58 PM	#8 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1765	thanks for the pic, i wasn't sure where to put the jacks exactly

05-31-2009, 10:21 AM	#10 (permalink)
miguez Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 359 Drives: '04 Cavalier Rep Power: 181	Thank you Chris. Hotchkis?

05-31-2009, 07:10 PM	#12 (permalink)
miguez Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 359 Drives: '04 Cavalier Rep Power: 181	Alright, thanks for the feedback, hopefully they'll come out with a specific one soon! Anyone knows if the Stillen one is different from their G37 one? Their PDF instructions still say G35 on them.

05-31-2009, 11:10 PM	#13 (permalink)
g96818 Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: A rock in a big pond Posts: 681 Drives: 2009 370Z, 2012 M56 Rep Power: 3394	Nice DIY. I suggest you guys wait on Hotchkis to develop better sways or buy another brand who doesn't have that stopper welded on the bar. That weld joint creates a high stress concentration and possibly small cracks which could fail due to creep, which was exactly what happened to my last pair of Hotchkis.

06-20-2009, 02:31 AM	#15 (permalink)
MursePaolo Base Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Glendale, CA Posts: 34 Drives: 98 Integra GS-R Rep Power: 16	how much did you pay for the set? if you don't mind. they look great btw.