DIY: Brake rotor replacement (front)

ChrisSlicks · 06-25-2009, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kannibul

Where did you get the rotor / cost?

Stoptech Rotors, Hawk Pads, CZP Brake Lines, >>

Good service.

spearfish25 · 10-17-2009, 07:13 PM

Have you noticed any improvement in braking performance with the change? I did a track day earlier this year and a dealer had a demo 370 that a pro driver was giving hot lap rides in. The rotors were scored beyond recognition. I'm curious if it's a brake pad issue or a $hitty stock sport package rotor issue.

What do you think?

Mike · 10-17-2009, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spearfish25

Have you noticed any improvement in braking performance with the change? I did a track day earlier this year and a dealer had a demo 370 that a pro driver was giving hot lap rides in. The rotors were scored beyond recognition. I'm curious if it's a brake pad issue or a $hitty stock sport package rotor issue.

What do you think?

I think its the pads, not the rotors. I did the same to my rears with stock pads and had HP+ on the fronts and the front rotors looked brand new, rears were garbage. I have the rotora slotted ones from Z1 motorsports now.

ChrisSlicks · 10-21-2009, 06:27 PM

I think the slotted rotors help resist scoring, any material they gets stuck between the pad and the rotor gets swept away by the slots. There was no improvement in braking performance. To improve track braking performance you need high-temperature pads. The think the stock pads are about right for the street, not too much dust and good grip without being grabby.

LinPark · 04-05-2010, 04:33 PM

Really well done write-up - I'll be using this soon. +1 rep.

LunaZ · 06-05-2010, 09:37 PM

I didn't find it necessary to remove the brake pads.

sajonf · 12-05-2010, 11:05 AM

I am getting ready to replace my rotors. Is it necessary to remove the brake pads or not? Thanks

ChrisSlicks · 12-05-2010, 11:08 AM

If the replacement rotors have an identical or fractionally thinner thickness then it shouldn't be necessary to remove the pads, however it will be a tight fit.

sajonf · 12-05-2010, 11:11 AM

great, thanks for the quick response

LinPark · 01-01-2011, 04:48 PM

Ok, I'm to the point of taking the rotor off and its not budging - was wondering what exactly the bolt is that is circled in red in this picture:

Does that need to be removed to get the rotor off?

Thanks!

ChrisSlicks · 01-01-2011, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinPark

Ok, I'm to the point of taking the rotor off and its not budging - was wondering what exactly the bolt is that is circled in red in this picture:

Does that need to be removed to get the rotor off?

Thanks!

That bolt is just a spacer and is screwed into the rotor. It does not need to be removed or replaced, it is just there to prevent someone from installing a rear wheel on the front.

If it is not budging just try and get a little more aggressive with the rubber mallet. Spray some penetrating spray in between the hub and the rotor.

I worked on an old Ford a few years ago where the rotor had basically welded itself to the hub. I was hitting it with a 20lb sledge hammer (didn't care at that point) and there was no way it was coming off. I tried drilling and tapping the rotor and using bolts to try and push it off, no joy, they just snapped. In the end I had to remove the wheel hub from the spindle (another joy) and throw them both away together.

Yours isn't that old so a few good whacks should do it. Add some high temp anti-seize to the hub face for the new rotor.

LinPark · 01-01-2011, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

That bolt is just a spacer and is screwed into the rotor. It does not need to be removed or replaced, it is just there to prevent someone from installing a rear wheel on the front.

If it is not budging just try and get a little more aggressive with the rubber mallet. Spray some penetrating spray in between the hub and the rotor.

I worked on an old Ford a few years ago where the rotor had basically welded itself to the hub. I was hitting it with a 20lb sledge hammer (didn't care at that point) and there was no way it was coming off. I tried drilling and tapping the rotor and using bolts to try and push it off, no joy, they just snapped. In the end I had to remove the wheel hub from the spindle (another joy) and throw them both away together.

Yours isn't that old so a few good whacks should do it. Add some high temp anti-seize to the hub face for the new rotor.

I'm actually using this write-up to install H&R 15mm spacers on the front - both ModShack and wheee refer to it in their write-ups for spacer installs - that bolt now has me worried because the spacers won't go in with that piece still in place. Are guys just removing that thing completely when they install the new spacers?

I'll hit the rotor with the penetrating spray and let it sit overnight.

Thanks!

ChrisSlicks · 01-01-2011, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinPark

I'm actually using this write-up to install H&R 15mm spacers on the front - both ModShack and wheee refer to it in their write-ups for spacer installs - that bolt now has me worried because the spacers won't go in with that piece still in place. Are guys just removing that thing completely when they install the new spacers?

I'll hit the rotor with the penetrating spray and let it sit overnight.

Thanks!

Yes, just take that thing off, it is useless. I also use the H&R 15mm spacers for the stock wheels.

djpathfinder · 01-01-2011, 06:53 PM

Yup, what he said about the screw and mallet. Really smack the crap out of the rotor, no joke.

370z1 · 02-22-2011, 11:16 PM

Hello ChrisSlicks,
Just wanted to say thanks for your DIY thread, it was very helpful to me when replacing my stock rotors with the stoptech ones. I got the zinc plated because several folks complained about the rust in the rotor vents. Just in case anybody is debating on doing this the only thing I can say it that when you remove the rear rotors don't forget to release the e-brake. I forgot I had it engaged and pulled on the rear rotor and it caused the ABS sensor to move which in turn caused my ABS and stability control lights to come on after I got it all put back together. I have since fixed it but figured others may want to avoid a simple issue like that.

10-17-2009, 07:13 PM	#17 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1856	Have you noticed any improvement in braking performance with the change? I did a track day earlier this year and a dealer had a demo 370 that a pro driver was giving hot lap rides in. The rotors were scored beyond recognition. I'm curious if it's a brake pad issue or a $hitty stock sport package rotor issue. What do you think? __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

06-05-2010, 09:37 PM	#21 (permalink)
LunaZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Vagabond Posts: 6,704 Drives: Project: a white one Rep Power: 512	I didn't find it necessary to remove the brake pads. Smashley likes this. __________________ 2009 370Z Sport/Touring/Navigation \| see my journal for mods facebook: Be my friend... or not.

12-05-2010, 11:08 AM	#23 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	If the replacement rotors have an identical or fractionally thinner thickness then it shouldn't be necessary to remove the pads, however it will be a tight fit. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

01-01-2011, 06:53 PM	#29 (permalink)
djpathfinder A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton, Canada Posts: 12,910 Drives: 2012 GT-R BE Rep Power: 733	Yup, what he said about the screw and mallet. Really smack the crap out of the rotor, no joke. __________________ 2012 GT-R Black Edition Jet Black 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary // SOLD

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10-21-2009, 06:27 PM	#19 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	I think the slotted rotors help resist scoring, any material they gets stuck between the pad and the rotor gets swept away by the slots. There was no improvement in braking performance. To improve track braking performance you need high-temperature pads. The think the stock pads are about right for the street, not too much dust and good grip without being grabby.

04-05-2010, 04:33 PM	#20 (permalink)
LinPark A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 1,077 Drives: '17 Camaro 2SS A8 Rep Power: 23	Really well done write-up - I'll be using this soon. +1 rep.

12-05-2010, 11:05 AM	#22 (permalink)
sajonf Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 97 Drives: 2016 370Z NISMO Rep Power: 16	I am getting ready to replace my rotors. Is it necessary to remove the brake pads or not? Thanks

12-05-2010, 11:11 AM	#24 (permalink)
sajonf Base Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 97 Drives: 2016 370Z NISMO Rep Power: 16	great, thanks for the quick response

01-01-2011, 04:48 PM	#25 (permalink)
LinPark A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 1,077 Drives: '17 Camaro 2SS A8 Rep Power: 23	Ok, I'm to the point of taking the rotor off and its not budging - was wondering what exactly the bolt is that is circled in red in this picture: Does that need to be removed to get the rotor off? Thanks!