Accessing inner door panel for Dynamat

Pat C.

Just wanted to see what any of you know about removing the gray inner door panel to where I can install Dynamat to the inside of the outer door skin. Have the door panel and power window motor off for both doors. Have (without being too forceful) tried to remove the inner gray panel, but have not had any luck. Also, do you have to destroy the wiring holders on the door panel? Not seen how they actually release.
Getting somewhat frustrated with the entire operation. Unable to download the video that SlikNik has for us regarding door panel/ molex removal....Hope someone has a few easy steps to where I can proceed without becoming any more frustrated...
Pat

TreeSemdyZee

You shouldn't have to download his video. You can just watch in online.
It's not very hard to do.
There are three bolts to remove with covered by two plastic plugs. The door switch panels just pop up and there are wire connectors that can be unplugged. I'd suggest getting plastic body tools to use for popping everything up. They'll save your fingers and a lot of the mounting pins/plugs.
If you can't view the video, let me know and I'll take some pictures tomorrow. I've had my panels off 10+ times.

Go to 1:48 in the video for panel removal. Also, you won't need to touch the Molex just to do Dynamat.
Video #2 Audio Install in a 2009 370Z on Vimeo

Pat C.

Tree, I have the interior panel off of both doors, that was super easy to do. Had bought some nice tools to help. However, what I'm wanting to gain access to is, the inner skin of the exterior sheet metal(if door glass were down, you'd be looking at the sheet metal "behind" the glass. Don't think you'll gain much with just applying Dynamat to the first layer below the interior trim panel. I'm wanting to be able to tap on the outside metal and hear the dull thud of having deadened that part of our cars.
I have the time to run this down. Wish I had some sort of hand held camera, I'd video and show everyone how I think we should be attacking this noise problem correctly!!
Let me know if you have any other info. Think I'll post a new question under the chat section....Guess I'm looking at having to remove the actual glass???
Pat C.

TreeSemdyZee

Oh. Gotcha. I've never really looked that deeply. Thought about it, but never really went that far.

Pat C.

Am feeling really satisfied at this point. Just came in from having completed the passenger side door. Had asked my wife to see what she saw while I pulled on the panel. Turns out there are 2 aluminum rivets that hold the panel to some inner rails. Drilled the rivets out and shazzam, the panel came right off!! A much better way to deaden the noise from the doors. Just need to order up the wire retainers I cut out of the way along with figuring out a way to hold a backup washer while I re-rivet the panels back in place. Nissan must attach this inner panel to the tracks "before" they put the glass in. Anyway, am absolutely jazzed about how much more I had access to for installing the Dynamat. Just need to order up a few more sheets before I open up the driver's door.
If anyone is contemplating doing their doors, this is the only way to do it...
Pat...

VQStryker

Do any of you know where you get the tools that were used in the video for removing the plastic pieces?

Austexan

walmart
Walmart.com: Scosche 12 Volt Tool Kit: Auto Electronics

VQStryker

oh....thank you

370ZilverZ

Another set of tools for trim removal. This is what I am using. More assortment for trim types and location.
4 Piece Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit

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BMW Z4

InsanO

Reviving this thread rather than starting a new one...

Similar to Pat C. above, I am also trying to remove the inner grey door panel which lies under the trim to dynamat. Plan is to dynamat both skins of each door.

I've taken off the door trim by removing all those screws you see on the ground, but can't seem to get that inner grey panel off. Above it was mentioned that some rivets need to be removed, are the ones highlighted in my pics the ones being referred to?

If so, how do I remove them? Drill into the center off them and they'll pop off?

Also do I need to take off anything else - including that white mechanism which I suspect to be the power window control?
Edit: That mechanism has some sort of star-shaped heads... Hoping I don't have to remove them but if I do, how would I go about it?

Thanks in advance.

Attached Images

	01_door_skin.jpg (676.2 KB, 266 views)
	02_screws.jpg (879.5 KB, 100 views)
	03_rivet_one.JPG (629.3 KB, 144 views)
	04_rivet_two.JPG (627.1 KB, 122 views)
	05_remaining.jpg (571.2 KB, 94 views)

37Z

Pics would be helpful. Any issues with the window alignment after drilling out the rivets?

RonRizz

this is how i did mine. you will have to remove the window motor as well by removing the 3 torx screws, then simply drill out the center of the rivits. i replaced mine with some short self tapping screws, and have had no issues with it at all.

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InsanO

RonRizz cheers for the info. Was the window motor hard to take off / put back on? I wouldn't want to mess up my power windows in doing so..

Also, how much dynamat did you use on the area under that grey panel?

Mike

you know you can just remove the glass first, then remove the whole regulator assembly without having to drill out any rivets?

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1...wregulator.pdf

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RonRizz

i obviously did not know that. seems like a bit much, though, as opposed to drilling 2 rivits out, but to each his own. a little new knowledge never hurt anyone.
anyway, i put 2 layers of dynamat on the inner panel, and replaced the panel, and then a layer on that. i also added some to the back of the plastic trim panel wherever i could.

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P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals