DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

Alienpoker

Actually I sourced the $62 part I’m recommending, Nissan had nothing to do with recommending it. I did the research, and happily paid a discount Nissan reseller I trust online for an OEM part that I took a chance on. And it worked, without reprogramming key fobs or any other hassle. Took me < 30mins to fit, put the fuse back and check the car started. It has been working happily ever since, about a month.

I DID notice a starting delay Several Times after I ‘banged on the old box’ and then pulled the fuse to prove the ESCL was my issue.

It’s definitely not an ‘empty box’. The box ‘makes the noise’ and (I assume) still closes the switches. But as it doesn’t move a metal deadbolt every time you get in & out of the car, it should last the life of the car. I have NO startup delays now. I prefer this fix for $62 to others (especially Nissan’s recommended fix) as my car works Exactly as it did before. Plus I won’t be stranded and left banging on a faulty metal box trying to get some switches to close again. Time will tell. I’d be comfortable selling the car with my solution fitted.

OK. So here’s MY rant:

I bought my 370Z Nismo from a Nissan dealer in CA, and until this situation I had always serviced it where I bought it. I complained to Nissan as far up as regional customer service manager and was offered nothing. I complained to the owner of the dealership where I bought the car and was only offered to ‘waive the $140 diagnostic fee’ IF I repaired the ESCL as they recommended. Which is BS as I knew what the problem was because every Altima, Maxima, ..., GTR and 370Z with the early ESCL units are failing. It’s very widespread across the *whole* Nissan range.

For the record this is what my Nissan dealer quoted me to replace the failed part with one that would probably fail again:
Labor 1.5 hours @ $170.00/Hr = $255
Parts needed 48700-9N00B $452
Tax total $36
Total repair charges = $743

... and probably a lot more if they decided thst they needed to ‘reprogram the key fobs’ - Some people have paid for that as well. Totals to over $1,200. Now that IS a ripoff.

Will I ever take my 370Z Nismo to a Nissan dealer again? No. Even for an ester oil change or service? No. Would I buy a new GTR from them or a 400Z when that comes out? No.

Everyone is welcome to modify their 370Z car as they choose. If you find a happy solution, go for it. Luckily you have gravity on your side as the deadbolt is unlikely to move back upwards, if the gears are trashed in your faulty ESCL.

I was just trying to be helpful and offer new alternatives for those like me who are only now having this issue.

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‘It’s like deja vu all over again’
2010 370Z Nismo Magnetic Blk 6MT
‘73 240Z White 2.6L 5MT

g96818

So mine failed while I was driving to work this morning, needless to say, I was stuck with a dead car and wouldn't cycle out of the "LOCK" position. I'm an engineer so when something happens, I hit the FSM and was one of the first few to discover the fuse trick before people started posting about it. I reinstalled the fuse and did the recall as soon as it was announced for the dealership to install P/N 48700-JF00D to replace my original P/N 48700-JF00A. I left the fuse installed since I like the locked steering wheel and the whirling sound it made.

Anyways, I thought something was odd this morning when I saw the yellow light was on before I shut off the car and I didn't hear the whirling sound when I opened the door. Turns out I was right, the damn car turned into a fricking paperweight as I tried to leave work. I was shocked since this wasn't supposed to happen after the stupid Nissan fix! I searched the interwebs and came across all these old posts about banging the lock to start the car, but remembered it didn't lock the steering wheel this morning so I figured why not try the fuse trick again, but i couldn't get the damn car out of "LOCK"

Thank god this was a wide spread issue since that led me to re-find this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLPTNm0xxy4) to trick the car out of "LOCK" to do the fuse trick. But that didn't work, the car still wouldn't start and any attempt would just shut the car off again and I would have to do the trick again.

Then I remembered a great thing about a manual car is that you can do a rolling start and since I was lucky enough for my steering wheel lock to break in the unlocked position, I was able to get the car started and avoided the tow fee to get her home.

In my research tonight, I found P/N 48708-9N00A & 48700-9N00B replaces my current lock, but I thought it looked fake with all that plastic, but then I found this post and Alienpoker's fake looking part to validate that it really does look like a cheap piece of Nissan crap and doesn't really do anything besides act as a relay. I'm going to order this expensive relay and hopefully that solves my paperweight problem since it it's not starting again.

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CZP are lying thieves!

Martijn_b

Question: íf the steering lock mechanism failed - are you still able to get the car to the ON position?

My car wont start, but it does cycle to ACC and ON. Yet instead of starting everything turns off again. Dealer says the BCM cant see if the steering wheel is locked or unlocked and therefor it wont start.

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

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Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

Alienpoker

I replaced the steering wheel lock almost 2yrs ago to fix the ESCL problem and no start / no ACC on my ‘09 370Z Nismo. The fix is: Buy Nissan OEM part. p/n: 48708-9N00A
Interchange part number is 487089N00A I paid about $62.00, and got free shipping. To get that price shop around online- I wouldn’t source it from the dealer parts dept.
Never had a single problem since. No lights on the dash ever- always starts.

__________________
‘It’s like deja vu all over again’
2010 370Z Nismo Magnetic Blk 6MT
‘73 240Z White 2.6L 5MT

Ivary

The only replacement part I can find under $500 is the Doorman solution for $350. The dealer will not stand by the recall. SB-10051829-6628 Ref NTB13-014 Voluntary Service Campaign P3208 they say my VIN is not specifically included. They are requiring me to pay full price for all diagnostic and repair costs. I had it towed home for $100.
I tried the tapping trick, it did not work. The only way I can make it unlock is grounding the pink wire. I grounded the pink wire started the car and cut the brown wire. This did not fix the problem. I grounded the pink wire started the car and pulled the fuse, that did not fix the problem. I am too physically big to do much upside down under the steering wheel. I am hoping not to spend hundreds, I have read all the posts but I am frustrated and giving up.

Ivary

Is there a fix for this where I can pay a mechanic that will not cost $1000? 48708-9N00A is all sold out, no future availability listed. The dorman part is $390 and often requires the dealer to reprogram fobs for over $200 plus paying mechanic fees. I don’t need the lock to lock, I just want the car to start.

JARblue

Beat on the lock under the steering column while repeatedly pressing the start button. If you are lucky, the car will start and you can then pull the ESCL fuse by the battery while the car is running.

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Ivary

I beat on it long and hard while pressing the button. I beat it so long and hard it is now pretty loose. Beating never helped, maybe a bit therapeutic. I just ordered from Amazon for $408 with tax part 48700 9N00B Local mechanics do not want to do the work they are afraid it will trigger a fob reset. I do not think they make the dummie switch anymore 487089N00A everywhere has them sold out and some sites say discontinued item. Stuck with 48708-9N00B if you can still find that one, for $408 with tax.

Ivary

The part came in, it was used, I expected a new part. All the dealers seemed sold out and wanted $600 anyway. I replaced it, put the fuse back in, started the car and removed the fuse. I am back to tearing up the back country roads again.

What I learned:

You can ground the pink wire and drive your car home and avoid a tow fee. This is a temporary fix. I grounded and started the vehicle drove it and cut the brown wire. DO NOT CUT UNLESS IT WILL UNLOCK WITHOUT THE PINK GROUNDED. It was a pain to splice back together.

The replacement part without the locking mechanism the Nissan produced for $70 seems to be a discontinued item 487089N00A

An overpriced used part can fix the problem, just pull the fuse after it is working, the part may fail again if you do not.

Replacement bolts for to replace the tamper resistant ones are 8mm 1.25 (I think) the heads are on the right side of steering column.

chasliss

If I decide to replace the steering lock, do the key fobs have to reprogrammed?

JARblue

No

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chasliss

Thank you!

chasliss

Thank you!

chasliss

I successfully replaced the steering lock on my 2010 370z. I used a pair of 90 degree needle nose pliers to get the bolts out. Thanks for this post to get me through it!

filip00

Just to chime in - I pulled the fuse out before I ever experiences any wheel lock issues and I had no issues whatsoever. The only difference I saw is that once I push the start button, it sometimes takes about 2 seconds before it actually starts.