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DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

Just corrected this problem in my 2010 Nismo. The car was transported to my home from a previous position in NV. During the transport - something happened and this module

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Old 12-01-2012, 12:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: VA
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Post Fixed it + step by step



Just corrected this problem in my 2010 Nismo. The car was transported to my home from a previous position in NV. During the transport - something happened and this module would not operate upon delivery. My guess is that the trailer took a hard up/down shot on the road and that engaged the module. My steps render the module inoperable but except for time, it's a free fix. Local Nissan dealer quoted me $1200-$1300 for the repair.

1. Tools I used: Small wire cutter, needle nose pliers, T-10 Torx bit + driver, Dremel rotary tool with metal cutting disc, straight screwdriver, 10mm wrench, flashlight, shop rag.

2. Put the back of the driver seat at least straight up, push the seat as far back as possible.

3. Lower both windows at least slightly.

4. Disconnect ground connection at battery.

5. Going under dash, the module is located at the bottom of the steering column right next to the lip of the dash. Rectangle box - has some wordage about discarding if dropped.

6. The two security screws are not very tight at all, just snug. Use the needle nose pliers and back them out a bit, finish with your fingers.

7. Caution, there is yellow grease between the box and steering column. Don't get that on your seats or carpet.

8. With the module hanging down, use the pliers to hold the clip in on the connecter and disconnect the box.

9. On your workbench, you will see that at the top of the module there is a rectangle piece that engages the steering box to lock it. This piece will be at the top and for the module to allow the car to go to ACC, ON and Start, the piece should be recessed - you can take the screwdriver and push it down but it's doubtful if that will release it.

10. Next to where this piece is, you will see a metal plate retainer that has a T-10 Torx screw holding it. Remove the screw and the retainer. It has to come straight up a little and then outward. In my case this still did not release the module, it might in your case.

11. If the module has still not released, take a small hammer, plastic preferable or the end of your screwdriver and rap on the bottom of the module, mine released after 4-5 taps.

12. On the backside of the retainer that you removed in Step 10, there is a clip piece with a spring behind it. Use the screwdriver or needle nose pliers and remove the spring, the clip piece can be removed after the spring it out.

13. Replace the retainer plate and torx screw. The module is essentially inoperable at this point.

14. I went one step further and clipped the wire at Terminal # 1 - Brown color. Cover the end with a small piece of electrical tape and turn the wire back underneath the plastic sheathing.

15. Reconnect the module to the plug connecter, just let it hang.

16. Reconnect the ground side of the battery.

17. You should now be able to go to ACC, ON, and Start the engine.

18. You have some choices on bolting the module back in. I chose to put the screws in a vise and cut slots in the screw heads with the Dremel tool. That way I could use the straight screwdriver to reuse them. You could also obtain metric bolts of the same size and length or you could use the screws as is using the long needle pliers.

19. All done except putting your seat back in position - which will probably drive you nuts!
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