DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside

370Z Purist · 06-14-2009, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z

Very good question. Nissan USA want you to take your car in for the first oil change at 3750 miles. I personally think that's way too long (for the first oil change). There are simply too many particles flowing around that can damage the internals. So, I did my first oil change at 2000 miles with regular oil at the dealer.

You should wait till at least 3000 miles before switching to synthetic (I switched at 3800 miles). Again some members here switched as early as 1200 miles but it's recommended to wait about 3000 miles.

Here's a discussion you can check out:
Does oil temp affacts to performance?

Thanks for the information. I'll probably look into doing the oil change myself at around 1750-2000 miles. Time to set the alarm interval in the 370Z's dash; I thought that's an awesome idea. Do you recommend changing oil every 3k miles? Mind you, I'll be doing moderate amounts of stop-and-go so I'm thinking every 3k, instead of 5k like most oils last for.

Maybe I'll go with Redline or Royal Purple, but since RP doesn't use ester base... well, Redline will do, even though it costs more than already expensive RP.

I also saw in your DIY oil change that you used magnetic bolts and a filter attachment; should I get those and apply them now? This car is so new I wouldn't be surprised if the oil filter came out with what seems like sand in it. I guess I might use a larger filter as well; experiencing high oil temps (around 220-240, once 250) and I read someone's thread on how his larger filter dropped temperatures dramatically.

VCuomo · 06-15-2009, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370Z Purist

...I also saw in your DIY oil change that you used magnetic bolts and a filter attachment; should I get those and apply them now? This car is so new I wouldn't be surprised if the oil filter came out with what seems like sand in it...

AK used a magnetic drain plug - wait until your first oil and oil filter change and replace the stock (non-magnetic) plug with the magnetic one, and place the filter magnet on the new oil filter.

And you should be VERY surprised "if the oil filter came out with what seems like sand in it" - modern engine manufacturing tolerances are way too tight for that type of thing. If it was normal for that type of debris to be present in a new engine, Nissan would tell you to do the first oil change within the first 500 miles (or probably sooner).

VCuomo · 06-15-2009, 01:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z

Very good question. Nissan USA want you to take your car in for the first oil change at 3750 miles. I personally think that's way too long (for the first oil change). There are simply too many particles flowing around that can damage the internals. So, I did my first oil change at 2000 miles with regular oil at the dealer.

AK, it's really not too long for the first oil change. These days, there are not "too many particles" that break loose in a fresh engine from a major manufacturer - engines are machined to much tighter tolerances today. If there were particles "flowing around that can damage the internals", Nissan wouldn't want the warranty problems (the oil cooler debacle is proof of that) and would tell you to change the oil much sooner.

But you certainly can't do any harm by changing the oil sooner than the recommended 3750 miles!

37Z · 06-15-2009, 09:00 PM

I only have approx. 850 miles on my 370Z and as yet have not changed out the oil yet. I used Mobil 1 5W-30 and Amsoil 0W-30 with OEM oil filter in my previous 350Z without any noticeable oil consumption/oil presssure issues on a daily driven car.

I am curious on other members feedback using Amsoil's EA oil filter or Amsoil's remote by-pass oil filter on their 370Z.

VCuomo · 06-15-2009, 12:48 AM

Yes, you CAN use synthetic oil from the get-go - you do NOT have to wait 3000 miles. Here is some info straight from Mobil (Mobil_Oil_Myths):

Quote:

Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10

One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

Redline recommends waiting 3,000 miles primarily for rebuilt engines - not fresh engines from major manufacturers; here's a quote from Road & Track Technical Correspondence Column (9 years ago, emphasis below added, link is Redline_break-in_link):

Quote:

Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.

Another interesting tidbit from the same link:

Quote:

Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.

It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.

Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1.

BTW, anyone know what type of oil that Nissan puts in at the factory? I'd bet it's synthetic...

semtex · 06-16-2009, 03:52 PM

So AK, have you noticed any perceptible difference running on Redline? I've heard that there's a very noticeable difference with Motul, so I'm wondering if the same holds true for Redline. Some people claim that the VQ doesn't do well on Motul as far as wear goes. So now I'm trying to decide whether to go ahead and use the 3 cans of Motul 300V already sitting in my garage, or give Redline a try instead. Redline is definitely less expensive and easier to get a hold of.

AK370Z · 06-16-2009, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

So AK, have you noticed any perceptible difference running on Redline? I've heard that there's a very noticeable difference with Motul, so I'm wondering if the same holds true for Redline. Some people claim that the VQ doesn't do well on Motul as far as wear goes. So now I'm trying to decide whether to go ahead and use the 3 cans of Motul 300V already sitting in my garage, or give Redline a try instead. Redline is definitely less expensive and easier to get a hold of.

I don't track my Z (I haven't yet) and I have never ran Motul in (any of) my Z. . So, I really can't give you a clear feedback. But it seems to do it's job. I felt the idle was a lot smoother. I say use those Motul cans in your Garage. Once they are finish, give Redline a try. They are both in the same catagory (Group 5). You might not see too much difference.

Forrest · 06-18-2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

So AK, have you noticed any perceptible difference running on Redline? I've heard that there's a very noticeable difference with Motul, so I'm wondering if the same holds true for Redline. Some people claim that the VQ doesn't do well on Motul as far as wear goes. So now I'm trying to decide whether to go ahead and use the 3 cans of Motul 300V already sitting in my garage, or give Redline a try instead. Redline is definitely less expensive and easier to get a hold of.

You should try Motul 300V for a little bit and do the black stone lab test on it.

Free Test Kit

My plan is very simple, i want to test to see how well the nissan ester oil wears on the engine for a few changes then switch it to something else and see if theres less wear.

BUt i need to change my own oil and i am slowly gearing up to do that, but since i am a slow driver i have a few miles to go before oil change, i am also kind of afraid to do it too.

AK you should test your redline also with black labs.

Oh yeah and i was thinking. the magnet on the filter and the drain pan bolt magnet would probably alter the test becuase they would be cleaning the oil for you more so than normal. All that crap that is breaking off, would normaly cause more wear that the magnet stops it from doing. I dunno, you get what i am saying i hope.

Sonic370Z · 06-16-2009, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZzzZz

Why not just remove the 4 bolts at the bottom of the cover. Notice there's that fold/crease about 8 inches up from the bottom? I believe that's what the designers intended that to be.

I just do that instead of removing the entire cover as removing 19 fasteners is overkill.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AK370Z

Removing the 4 bolts doesn't quite give you access to neither oil filter nor drain plug because they are situated a little deeper than that . I'm sure you can try and do it but if you can buy a motorized screwdriver ($10 shipped EBAY), it makes your life a whole lot easier.

???

I took the whole thing off, but as I was putting it back on I thought to myself, "I wonder..." sure enough there is plenty of room. of the section that folds down (requiring you to only remove the 4 bolts) the drain bolt is dead center of that flap and the oil filter just above it. I had plenty of space to change the filter and drain the oil with just the flap down? anyone who goes to change their oil take a look at it first and see if you have room to work (since you have to remove those 4 bolts anyway).

Sonic370Z · 06-16-2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic370Z

just changed the oil for the first time and no matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the damn thing off. screw driver through the middle of the damn thing took it right off.

anyhow, my original oil filter says made in Japan. my local dealer that I purchased 2 replacement oil filters from say made in China. I also noticed that the oil filter they gave me is slightly longer (maybe 1/2 inch) than the OEM one?

part number of the original Nissan filter: 15208-65FOB (Japan)
part number of the Nissan filter the dealer sold me: 15208-9E000 (China)

and from the looks of AK's pictures, his was 15208-65FOC (China)

thoughts?

picture: (and yes, I had to use a damn screw driver because I had already drained the oil, couldn't go to store to get a new tool, lol)

wstar · 06-19-2009, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic370Z

???

I took the whole thing off, but as I was putting it back on I thought to myself, "I wonder..." sure enough there is plenty of room. of the section that folds down (requiring you to only remove the 4 bolts) the drain bolt is dead center of that flap and the oil filter just above it. I had plenty of space to change the filter and drain the oil with just the flap down? anyone who goes to change their oil take a look at it first and see if you have room to work (since you have to remove those 4 bolts anyway).

Just saw this, nice find there. Definitely going to try the "only 4 bolts" method on my next change, which is coming up in about 500 miles (probably end of next week, or middle of the one after).

370z_Sith · 06-20-2009, 07:30 AM

Ok, I made the change to Motul 300v 5w30 with an K&N oil filter at the 2500 mile mark. Now let me ask you all for a recommendation.

I want to send an oil sample to Blackstone. Now even thought I just spent about a hundred bucks between the oil and filter, I'm still going change my oil every 3000 miles..What can I say, either I'm a sucker for wasting money or I just want the best $hit for my car.. So anyway, should I gather an oil sample at my next oil change and send it? (at 5500 miles). Or should I gather a sample at 8500? I guess I'm not sure if the analysis will be accurate after 3000 miles.

So what do ya think?

NIZMOZ · 05-16-2011, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonic370Z

???

I took the whole thing off, but as I was putting it back on I thought to myself, "I wonder..." sure enough there is plenty of room. of the section that folds down (requiring you to only remove the 4 bolts) the drain bolt is dead center of that flap and the oil filter just above it. I had plenty of space to change the filter and drain the oil with just the flap down? anyone who goes to change their oil take a look at it first and see if you have room to work (since you have to remove those 4 bolts anyway).

Yep, plenty of room. The 350Z also had a HOLE that was big enough for you to get the oil drained and filter out with your hand. No need to remove the whole tray. Eventually those bolts will not thread well for removing it all the time.

Billarf · 05-16-2011, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NIZMOZ

Yep, plenty of room. The 350Z also had a HOLE that was big enough for you to get the oil drained and filter out with your hand. No need to remove the whole tray. Eventually those bolts will not thread well for removing it all the time.

Once the 4 bolts are removed from that access door, use a bunchy cord (elasticized) cord to hold the flap open while you are working. With the access door open and the access door out of your way there is plenty enough room there to work.

miguez · 06-16-2009, 08:09 PM

Amazing what we can come up with when necessity presses its head in

Sonic, check this out as far as filters go, just FYI.

06-15-2009, 09:00 PM	#4 (permalink)
37Z Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 476 Drives: 370Z MB 6M -sold Rep Power: 263	oil change intervals/oil brands I only have approx. 850 miles on my 370Z and as yet have not changed out the oil yet. I used Mobil 1 5W-30 and Amsoil 0W-30 with OEM oil filter in my previous 350Z without any noticeable oil consumption/oil presssure issues on a daily driven car. I am curious on other members feedback using Amsoil's EA oil filter or Amsoil's remote by-pass oil filter on their 370Z.

06-16-2009, 03:52 PM	#6 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 33	So AK, have you noticed any perceptible difference running on Redline? I've heard that there's a very noticeable difference with Motul, so I'm wondering if the same holds true for Redline. Some people claim that the VQ doesn't do well on Motul as far as wear goes. So now I'm trying to decide whether to go ahead and use the 3 cans of Motul 300V already sitting in my garage, or give Redline a try instead. Redline is definitely less expensive and easier to get a hold of. __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

06-20-2009, 07:30 AM	#12 (permalink)
370z_Sith Base Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: NYC Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370z Rep Power: 16	After 2500 miles..... Ok, I made the change to Motul 300v 5w30 with an K&N oil filter at the 2500 mile mark. Now let me ask you all for a recommendation. I want to send an oil sample to Blackstone. Now even thought I just spent about a hundred bucks between the oil and filter, I'm still going change my oil every 3000 miles..What can I say, either I'm a sucker for wasting money or I just want the best $hit for my car.. So anyway, should I gather an oil sample at my next oil change and send it? (at 5500 miles). Or should I gather a sample at 8500? I guess I'm not sure if the analysis will be accurate after 3000 miles. So what do ya think?

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06-16-2009, 08:09 PM	#15 (permalink)
miguez Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 359 Drives: '04 Cavalier Rep Power: 182	Amazing what we can come up with when necessity presses its head in Sonic, check this out as far as filters go, just FYI.