Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself) (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/)
-   -   DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/4705-diy-nissan-370z-oil-change-ak370z-way-pictures-inside.html)

Dreadnaught 01-03-2016 02:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoneZ (Post 3380213)
Do you notice a lot of ick?
I notice that about after I pour half to 3/4ths of a quart that the oil coming out of the pan is starting to come out as clean oil. So it definitely helps get out old oil.

BoneZ 01-03-2016 09:52 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreadnaught (Post 3380253)
I notice that about after I pour half to 3/4ths of a quart that the oil coming out of the pan is starting to come out as clean oil. So it definitely helps get out old oil.
Cool.

Filipe 02-28-2016 03:28 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 140BPM (Post 3209812)
So I just finished my oil change for the ?th time and as I'm finishing up pouring in the oil I realize that I probably put that stupid crush washer in backwards. Funny how the most simple procedure can slip your mind no matter how many times you perform a task.

Anyone else do this by accident? I've read a few other posts saying it shouldn't be an issue but just curious if anyone here has experience first hand. I did remove the old one FWIW.

I guess I'll run it and check for any seepage in a few days... I'm not about to drain all the oil fresh oil out for a stupid copper washer just yet
how do you know which way is the "proper" way of putting it on?

BoneZ 02-28-2016 03:31 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Filipe (Post 3424843)
how do you know which way is the "proper" way of putting it on?
The part of the washer that has the notch needs to contact the head of the bolt. The more open side of the washer contacts the oil pan.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b39977f469.jpg

Filipe 02-28-2016 04:02 PM
curious as to why - but i'd imagine it's just one of those things "because they say so"

BoneZ 02-28-2016 04:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Filipe (Post 3424847)
curious as to why - but i'd imagine it's just one of those things "because they say so"
The raised part of the notch makes it easier for the bolt to thread into it and also that side has the smaller opening to seal more effectively.

I'd also say because the bolt is tightening into the pan, having the open end on the pan would allow for more even crushing and subsequent better seal.

Filipe 02-28-2016 04:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoneZ (Post 3424851)
The raised part of the notch makes it easier for the bolt to thread into it and also that side has the smaller opening to seal more effectively.

I'd also say because the bolt is tightening into the pan, having the open end on the pan would allow for more even crushing and subsequent better seal.
Thank you- I did some more searching and that is similar to what I read elsewhere....is there any reason to be concerned about not completely draining the oil, since the car is still on the ramps when you tighten the bolt back up?

I've always used jack stands on my 300zx, and lowered the car to drain the oil completely, then jacked it back up to put in the drain plug. What are your thoughts folks?

And thanks for the help. Paid the shop to do the first oil change, as a way to let me get under the lift and take a look at the under carriage. From here on out, I plan to do it myself.

BoneZ 02-28-2016 04:24 PM
I never worry about it. The way I see it, you are never going to completely get every drop of used oil out of the system and just so long as it's refreshed with good oil on a regular basis, I think everything should be fine.

Filipe 02-28-2016 04:26 PM
That's a fair logic to go by, honestly. I don't race the car. I just drive it hard when I get the chance. Plus, I'm not maximizing the milage intervals with Mobil1 anyway. Thank you.

barncobob 03-10-2016 08:15 AM
i always change oil late afternoon, let it drip all night and fill in morning

Darwins Child 04-22-2016 10:01 AM
1 Attachment(s)
Fantastic DIY!

I am about to change the oil on a '14 Touring Sport that my wife and I purchased just a few days ago and I have just two questions.

1. In the photo below, does the red arrow point to the front, center jacking point?

2. If it is even possible with the sport's front spoiler, how difficult is it to get a long, low-profile jack onto that front lift point, and are there any means (angles of view) to make the placing of the jack on that point easier?

Thanks.

JARblue 04-22-2016 10:15 AM
1. Yup :tup:

2. I just drive one front wheel up onto a short piece of 2x12 laid flat to get that little bit of extra clearance I need to reach the front jack point. Other floor jacks may need a little more clearance or not as much. I typically kiss the front chin spoiler with the jack handle on the first few pumps, but I just make sure not to hit it too hard or make it flex too much.

BoneZ 04-22-2016 10:18 AM
So that's the front jack point. I've been kinda wondering about this myself.

Darwins Child 04-22-2016 10:19 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3465501)
1. Yup :tup:

2. I just drive one front wheel up onto a short piece of 2x12 laid flat to get that little bit of extra clearance I need to reach the front jack point. Other floor jacks may need a little more clearance or not as much. I typically kiss the front chin spoiler with the jack handle on the first few pumps, but I just make sure not to hit it too hard or make it flex too much.
Thanks!

barncobob 04-24-2016 04:54 AM
rhino ramps, hell with all that jacking.


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