Wstar, I will let you know. Should have it installed this week.
I have a Fumoto on my modified jeep tj (and grand cherokee), 60k plus hard offroad and highway miles later never leaked as much as a drop. Fumotos are quality built and super convenient for anyone doing their own oil changes, plus no stripped oil pan. Got one for the Armada as well

Billarf, I have updated post 1 with the new "crush washer" instruction. I wasn't 100% but I never had any issues using the washer the way I did. But since you've mentioned that your way is the correct way, I'll stand corrected.

So, I have been really busy and haven't posted my 6th oil change. Everything is basically the same. Drive the car, bring the temp up to 210+, get oil sample, change the oil, new oil filter/oil etc. Here are some pics:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05101.jpg
Safety first. ALWAYS wear goggles.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05103.jpg
As you can see it's been a while! Car had Blizzaks and there's snow outside.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05106.jpg
Draining

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05107.jpg
Iron particles trapped on the magnet.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05110.jpg
The filter is fully lubricated with oil and it's 1/4 -1/2 filled with oil to prevent dry start.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05114.jpg
Installed.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05118.jpg
lol I'm still waiting for the Advertisement check from Aquafina! :icon17:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC05121.jpg

My Z actually has 35xxx miles now. So, I put about 31,500+ miles on the Z with Redline oil. I experience has been nothing but fantastic. Hopefully it continues this way. :tup:

snipe regarding Fumoto oil drain valve use:

Yes, just about everything in life will fail at some point. In regard to the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, over 7 million are out there in use. You can scour the internet and play hard at finding a reported failure of the Fumoto valve though a couple have been reported in the last few years. For you to say valves "always" fail is overstating things though. Yes, they can fail but not "always"..

Per Fumoto Engineering, In the United States, the Engine Oil Drain Valve is being installed at the factory level on some of the vehicles/equipment made by Ford, Kohler, Freightliner, Caterpillar, JLG, GEHL, Ingersoll-Rand, Sullair, Toyota, Case, Magnetek, Timberjack, Lincoln Electric, Vermeer, Baldor, Terex, Deutz, Phaser Marine Generator and etc.. The Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve has been tested and granted "Genuine Parts" status by 6 major motor vehicle manufacturers in Japan, including Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Subaru and Isuzu.

So, like anything, this valve could possibly fail but changes are extremely remote. As for accidental opening of the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve... Yes, dependent on the application (farm tractor with low ground clearance, etc. ) this could happen and that is why Fumoto Engineering suggests you use a ring clip to secure the valves release lever.
http://www.fumotousa.com/images/valvewithclip_150.jpghttp://www.fumotousa.com/images/hoseclip_100.jpg


In closing to each his own whether you would use a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve.
Over 7 million have been installed so a few million people do trust the valve.

snipe:
Scenarios like this are good Fumoto Oil Drain Valve ad content. Once you install a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, oil pan draining is lets say a breeze. For example with the Z..
You do just remove the four rearward bolts and lower the access flap rather than going thru the hassle of the full belly pan removal. Now, with access flap open you just attach tubing to the Fumoto valve's nipple, (some owner's leave tubing attached on the valve) place the other end of the tubing in a jug and then open the Fumoto drain valve lever. Drain oil and change the oil filter. Oil filters can be changed with a minimum of mess even on a 370 Z. After new oil filter is in place, be sure valve is closed and then replenish oil. Virtually no fuss or mess and little to clean up afterwards as the oil is in a jug and no messy catch pans to deal with. Just cap the jug and transport to a recycle drop off point when you have time.

Along with easy, clean oil changes thanks to the Fumoto, you also no longer need to use crush washers. You aren't removing the drain plug so there is no longer worries about losing the oil drain plug, over tightening/stripping of threads, wearing out threads, etc.. IF you are one that does not want to change your own oil and filter (or lets others change your oil on occasion) but rather you use oil change places to change your oil then there is another advantage of the valve.. You tell your oil change guy/gal how to open and close the Fumoto valve and not to remove it. They change your oil and filter and you are free of worry whether they changed the crush washer, overtightened/stripped the oil drain plug, etc.. Oh, forgot to mention if you ever want to grab say a between oil change oil sample for testing, this is very easy if you have a Fumoto valve.

In closing, no the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve is not for everyone but it there are some compelling reasons to have one installed on your vehicle. For some, just the satisfaction of the oil change guy not fooling with your oil drain plug is compelling reason enough. As for me, quick, clean, easy and no fooling with a drain plug are my compelling reasons.

No, I do not own stock in Fumoto Engineering. :tiphat:

Yep, plenty of room. The 350Z also had a HOLE that was big enough for you to get the oil drained and filter out with your hand. No need to remove the whole tray. Eventually those bolts will not thread well for removing it all the time.

Once the 4 bolts are removed from that access door, use a bunchy cord (elasticized) cord to hold the flap open while you are working. With the access door open and the access door out of your way there is plenty enough room there to work. :tiphat:

My exact thoughts, steel magnectis drain plugs. Read the data on the linky... Dimple magnet is stronger than any hard drive magnets. Check out the videos.

Yeh, that sounds about right for when I was using the aluminum magnetic drain plain w/nissan crush washer. :tup:

Since then I am using Dimple Steel Magnetic drain plug with its own washer.

Dimple Steel Magnetic drain plug...Click here...TOYOTA/LEXUS NISSAN/ INFINITI

.

Just did my first oil change on the car yesterday and these instructions made it extremely easy! I went with the dimple magnetic plug and just wanted to clarify, like the poster above me says, it does not need the nissan crush washer. It has a rubber washer built in. :tup:

That is correct, and above I had mentioned when I was using the alumunim magentic plug (Titek brand) which then would use the nissan crush washer.

The Dimple STEEL magnetic plug uses a rubber washer instead of nissan copper crush washer. :tiphat:

Hi all.

I just completed the second oil change (first was done by dealership). Following this write up made the process very easy. I work on a military base and was able to utilize the auto hobby shop's car lift. $7.50 for an hour was very reasonable. In any event, I went with the Nissan Ester oil, stock filter & magnetic drain plug. I'm just over 7700 miles after 14 months of driving. I just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice and comments. I'll be doing my own oil changes from now on.

AK, you have converted me as well. Have shopped together all required components, including my first REAL toolset ;-), and will do this probably tomorrow.

Just a question in terms of the magnetic drain plug and the crush washer:

1) When tightening the drain plug (Exedium) using the crush washer (Nissan) - how tight do I need to screw it? Is it 1.5x after initial resistance? Several posters have mentioned things - am a little confused now...
2) Exedium drain plugs come with their own washer - do I discard that, use them both or....?

Pic is attached showing Exedium drain plug with washer versus Nissan crush washer.



Thanks very much.

EDIT: It's all done. Wasn't too hard either. Thanks for the great manual you have created!

I have been running RP since I have had my car. It has 15k miles now and I am wanting to switch to Red Line. So any advice on the switch?

Just do it.:tup:

Okay cool thanks for the go ahead.:tiphat: