Originally Posted by bsramzy anyone notice the price on Purolator PL14610 skyrocket?! Amazon sold the 2 packs for around 11 dollars now its 11 dollars for one filter! Advanced Auto
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08-10-2010, 08:01 AM | #406 (permalink) |
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Advanced Auto Parts has then for $6.50 and they often run oil change specials where you can get a Purolator filter basically for free when you buy the advertised oil.
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08-12-2010, 04:51 PM | #408 (permalink) |
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FYI, (AK i dunno if you want to add this to your first post, but) you can get the the Kics magnetic drain plugs here for $5 less: MyNismo.com - PROJECT KICS Magnetic Oil Drain
and the washers for $0.80 here MyNismo.com - NISSAN Oil Drain Plug Washer they are 30 cents less each and you don't need to go to the dealership lower price and no trips to dealership |
08-21-2010, 08:42 PM | #409 (permalink) |
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Thread was helpful, finally tried it myself after postponing the last two oil changes!...
(you mention you remove the oil filter first THEN drain the oil?. . . saw it the other way round in some other manual, don't think its a big deal but was there a specific reason for doing the filter first and not the draining from the bolt first?) |
08-22-2010, 12:28 PM | #410 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
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Hope this helps!
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08-22-2010, 02:04 PM | #411 (permalink) |
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If you have a wide enough catch tray you can remove both at the same time. Order doesn't really matter but you will end up with less on your hands if you do the drain plug first.
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08-23-2010, 04:38 PM | #413 (permalink) | |
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Though now I'm finally getting the warning that I need to change my oil and oil filter. LMAO! |
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08-23-2010, 05:02 PM | #414 (permalink) |
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FWIW, I changed the oil on my NISMO last Friday. Here are a couple things I did different than in the DIY.
1. Starter Ramps--I got a 6' section of 2x12 from a lumber store, cut it in half and then put 45 degree miter cuts along one edge (the 12" side) for each half. I pulled the front onto those and then slid my low-profile jack up to the front cross member jack point. I probably could've gotten away without the mitre cut, but the tires grabbed right away on the wood and nothing slid. 2. Jack Stands vs. Ramps--Rather than jacks or ramps I purchased a single set of 12" 2-piece Race Ramps wheel cribs (RR-WC-12-2). This gave me four 6" halves that each have a lip that cups the wheel when underneath. This gave me 6" of lift at all four corners. 3. Bolts--I removed only the 4 bolts on the rear of the underbody tray and used two bungee cords to keep the flap out of the way. Worked like a charm. The RR cribs worked great. There is still play in the suspension, but the cribs didn't compress at all when the tires were down. Also, when the front tires were on cribs and I went to jack up the rear the front tires didn't move forward in the cup. If you're very low and don't want to use jack stands this is an alternative. Oh, and don't even try getting the OEM filter off by hand. Just have a removal tool ready before you start. |
08-23-2010, 11:48 PM | #416 (permalink) |
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It's the same on all of them. I used a big as* pipe wrench to get it off. It's supposed to be installed at 13 ft-lbs but it was double that.
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08-25-2010, 02:45 PM | #419 (permalink) |
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What was your oil level before and after the change? My first change (at 1300 miles) went from the oil level being perfectly between L and H to being juuuust under H after adding 5 1/8 quarts. Obviously I drained less than that. The car came with the oil half way between L and H. You're probably fine, just keep an eye on the oil level to see if there are any big changes.
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08-26-2010, 09:51 AM | #420 (permalink) |
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I am sure the last time I did the change, we put in exactly 5 and 1/8th. And then while draining, I was storing the oil in the big 5 quart container to return to Walmart and this 5 quart was not entirely full the way it was before opening. So how ever I slice it, I did end up draining less than 5 and 1/8th. Not sure if thats normal...
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