Okay, they come in packs of 10, not 12. Part no. is 11026-01M02. If I were you I'd go speak to the service manager. Without that washer, there's a greater risk that your oil will leak. The purpose of the washer is to ensure a good seal around the drain hole as it literally compresses (or crushes) when the drain plug is tightened in. What concerns me is that if you have an oil leak, it won't be obvious from the little drips of oil on your driveway or garage floor. Why not? Because our cars have that big undertray that will catch all the drips. So you'll be oblivious, driving along thinking everything is kosher until your next oil change. Then the undertray will come off again, revealing a huge mess of oil that has been dripping down. Ugh! This isn't even my car and it aggravates me.

I was able to pick up 1 copper washer for a buck at the nissan dealership. i guess its true that copper prices are high hehe. oil change this weekend with redline, wee.

Thanks, I will go see them. Is there something I can point to, a service manual, bulletin, etc other than saying, "So I read on the internet that you did this wrong"?

See part no. 14.

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/t...9-102739AM.jpg

It is Engine Oil Change 101 that the drain plug washer is always replaced as once used it loses its compressive strength. Any person who changes oil for a living should know this or they should not be changing oil for a living.

Also, go back to the diagram from the 370Z Service Manual posted by Semtex and note the white "X" within a black circle, this means not to reuse this part and the part is to be replaced with a new part.

:facepalm: That's why I avoid dealers as much as possible.

Seriously, what's this guy doing working at a dealership? He's not even qualified to be working at a Jiffy Lube!

1.0 out of 5 stars Not for use with Synthetic Oil- Tool Topia not returning!, December 13, 2007
By serasbach "serasbach" (AZ) - See all my reviews
I used this on my 2002 BMW and it seemed to work great, but the next time I went to use it- oil started coming out of the T-Handle where air normally is the only thing that escapes. I called the manufacturer, and they advised me that some synthetic oils (Mobil 1 in my case) can cause the seals in the lower part of the canister to degrade and will allow oil to bypass. They informed me that it would be covered under warranty- but Tool Topia is not working with me. When you call the line for returns, they have you leave a message- nobody ever calls you back either. I have called 4 times in the last 6 days- and nothing.

Don't buy this if you use synthetic oil, it won't last long enough for your second oil change.






true http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-L...0232934&sr=1-2

Mine is not the Mityvac, but it looks similar. However, there is clear warning that many do not heed and it that you only pump the handle five times, and every so often afterwards, and not to over pump it as it will blowout the seals. So if Godzilla is pumping the crap out of the bloody thing, it's going to blow something! I've had mine for over a decade and it has seen synthetic of just about every brand and dino too. Still works like the day I bought it. Dollars to donuts that Mr. Bimmer did a Godzilla number on his extractor.

Here is who makes mine (Griot's typically re-boxes most of its items under the Griot's label): Pela Oil Extractor - Large PL650

How To Use: PL-650 Big PELA & PELA Pro 14 Oil Extractors*

*On mine, Griot's put a five pump warning (most likely to keep Godzilla from blowing seals).

where do u buy those?

Simply search the net, or eBay using "Pela Oil 650".

I'm thinking of getting an oil extractor myself, but I'm wondering what happens when you want to send your oil off for UOA. Blackstone's instructions say to take the sample from the middle of drain. In other words, don't take the oil that immediately starts dumping out when you remove the drain plug, and don't wait till it's almost finished draining either. Point being, if I were using an extractor, I don't think I'm supposed to just scoop some oil out of the extractor when I'm finished extracting all of it. So if I have to drain my oil the old fashioned way in order to get a proper oil sample for UOA, then this would be a waste of money for me. SoCal370Z -- any thoughts on this?

I situate my extractor's oil tube (up in the air and through a bike rack I have in my garage) so that oil in the tube is drained back into the hopper until the next oil change so the tube itself is cleared of oil, but surely it has oil residue inside that can contaminate existing oil. I always wipe-down the tube prior to placing it in the engine's dipstick, AND I start pumping immediately as I do not want any of the possible residue inside the tube going into the engine oil (although I'm changing the oil). You will not be able to take a sample from the hopper as effective cleaning of the hopper is impossible, and you would be getting a contaminated sample. The assembly of the pump's mechanism in the hopper makes it impossible not to contaminate any incoming oil with prior oil. The cylinder of the hopper is marked with graduations—in metric—so you can easily discern how much you have extracted. This allows you to leave enough in the oil pan whereby you can open the drain plug and retrieve your sample; afterwards simply place the tube back in and extract the rest. Another benefit from using an oil extractor is that in doing the method I mentioned above to get your oil sample, you do not have to worry about oil rushing out of the drain hole when you remove the oil drain plug; this makes for much cleaner oil change.

Here's a good thread write-up and a photo montage of the Pela Extractor: Oil Extractor Review

just put in redline. drove it for a bit, things seem smoother and much quieter. oil temp seems to be lower too, but that may be due to the early morning cool weather. i'll be driving across town later in warmer weather so we'll see how the temp is...

Amazon.com: Pela Oil Extractor, 6 liter: Sports & Outdoors


this? if this is it im gonna buy and change to red line