DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>.

cab83_750 · 04-22-2010, 03:21 PM

Jim,

did you do the socketless? How many miles so far since the install?

JimZ · 04-22-2010, 04:57 PM

No, stainless steel AQP (Aeroquip). Only 300+ miles since install and reinspected last night....everything intact. I used 3/4 heater hose split with clamps at all contact points. The cooler is a Setrab series 6, 24 row. I dont track the car and drive pretty conservatively but easily run 20-25 deg cooler....will see this summer as temp here are still pretty mild. I have read most of the comments about the hose failures and I too am concerned...not with my fittings or hose but with the amount of slack that may need to be required....when you do this install you will see that there just isnt that much room to play with. I routed my hose according to Vipors technique with no problems. However, the gap between the sandwich fittings and the bottom panel is essentially nonexistent. I wanted to use straight fitting off the sandwich, and actually purchased these, but the sway just wont allow it. My saving grace is probably the fact that I just dont 'get on it' much and consequently motor movement is low.

cab83_750 · 04-23-2010, 04:01 PM

This 'slack issue' appears to be the unknown and the biggest concern. What is unknown, at least to me, is the direction of the pull against the hose. In other words, is the motor pulling, pushing....? Coupled with the sway bar movement, is the hose being pulled up and/or down?

My hoses were routed in an 'S' shape form to allow for left/right/up/down/forward/back movements of the motor and sway bar. This of course, is my non-engineering guess/solution. I will post pictures soon and will welcome any type of input/flame.

So far, I do not have any issues with the socketless setup. I do plan on removing the 'collars' where the hoses end. I believe they are there for aesthetic purposes. Once removed, I will use one (just 1) small clamp or zip-tie. I do not think having once clamp at the very end of the hose will Not destroy the inner lining of the hose.

Billy830 · 04-24-2010, 10:54 AM

From a previous post from Modshack I believe he said not to use any ties or clamps on socket less hose ends. Also the collar on the socket hose ends are not there for looks they help hold the hose onto the fittings, I don't think it would be a good idea to remove them, they are there for a purpose.

If you get your hose lengths correct ( measure once, measure twice) an inch or 2 longer can't hurt. You can have both hoses made with crimp on fittings for $120 including shipping. Hosemachine.com.

I have said this before routing and clamping is the main focus on these lines.
I have not installed mine yet. I have the parts but not the hoses and I am certainlly going to use crimp ons. But I want to look at all possibilities for the install.

On all the posts the hoses are at the bottom of the mocal sanwich plate. Has anyone looked at other positions for the mocal plate. The bottom looks like its easy but is it the best position.

cab83_750 · 04-24-2010, 02:14 PM

Those collars do NOT hold the hoses. They are there just to have a clean finish look.

JimZ · 04-24-2010, 10:56 PM

Billy,
I had planned to use straight Aeroquip fittings off the Mocal plate directed to the front of the car...approx 90 deg from the "bottom" position but found this was just not possible due to other engine componets/sway bar. You can play with it but I think you too will find it not to be an option. Good luck

Boosted Josh · 05-10-2010, 04:01 PM

Just ordered everything to put this cooler together. Thanks Mod.

I hope building the lines won't be a problem. I don't see how it could be that hard but that means it'll end up taking 3x longer than it should.

scruffydog · 05-10-2010, 04:05 PM

I just ordered everything, except the Sandwich plate it back ordered. hopefully I'll get it before the end of June cuz I wanna track with an oil cooler. Thanks Modshack for the helpful info though.

Boosted Josh · 05-12-2010, 09:07 AM

A couple of parts are on back order from RPW. Evidently they have been delayed because of the volcano.

dejavu1611 · 06-16-2010, 04:33 PM

Hi Modshack, I was going over your DIY and decided to do it myself but I just now noticed that your fotki album is PW protected. Can you post/PM the PW or make it public? I recall a lot of useful pictures there. Thanks.

Billy830 · 06-25-2010, 06:35 PM

Oil cooler results
Well I finally took the car one a little ride here in S Fl total 120 miles, Fl Turnpike and I95.
Port Saint Lucie to DelRay Beach and back.

To DelRay Outside Air Temp 93 cruising at 80-90 oil temps were at 210. Before oil cooler 220+
Back to PSL Outside Air Temp 86 cruising at 80-90 oil temps 195. Before oil cooler 220+.

Works good for me

cab83_750 · 07-07-2010, 02:40 AM

Here are pics of my hose routing. Right, wrong, or indifferent, it was my way of taking into account the motor flexing right, left, up, down, etc. Oh, and I do realize the ties at the end are not recommended; however, I am keeping them anyway as they are only at the very end. So far so good:

Cjanik · 07-07-2010, 08:07 AM

^^ very good idea for those worried about flex. tons of slack there!

spearfish25 · 07-10-2010, 10:59 PM

I just installed mine and noticed a potential issue, though I'm hoping it's minor.

Look at Cab83's 3rd and 4th pictures (and see my pic). The sway bar is just above the lines and is unloaded while on jack stands. When we drop the car to the ground, the ends of the sway bar move up while the middle portion pivots down. This will push down on the lines, depending on your configuration. I'm hoping that loading the suspension in corners or braking doesn't move the sway enough to work the lines loose. The closer you run the lines to the sway hinge, the better off you'll be.

***A huge thanks to Modshack for all of his help with this. Made it a very simple install***

cossie1600 · 07-11-2010, 04:15 PM

I didn't like how low the lines were sitting under the sway bar, I ended up running the lines over it by using the left side to run the inlet and right side of the bumper to run the outlet of the oil cooler

04-22-2010, 03:21 PM	#1 (permalink)
cab83_750 Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Posts: 887 Drives: 09 NISSAN 370Z Rep Power: 417	Jim, did you do the socketless? How many miles so far since the install? Donnydark likes this.

04-23-2010, 04:01 PM	#3 (permalink)
cab83_750 Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Posts: 887 Drives: 09 NISSAN 370Z Rep Power: 417	This 'slack issue' appears to be the unknown and the biggest concern. What is unknown, at least to me, is the direction of the pull against the hose. In other words, is the motor pulling, pushing....? Coupled with the sway bar movement, is the hose being pulled up and/or down? My hoses were routed in an 'S' shape form to allow for left/right/up/down/forward/back movements of the motor and sway bar. This of course, is my non-engineering guess/solution. I will post pictures soon and will welcome any type of input/flame. So far, I do not have any issues with the socketless setup. I do plan on removing the 'collars' where the hoses end. I believe they are there for aesthetic purposes. Once removed, I will use one (just 1) small clamp or zip-tie. I do not think having once clamp at the very end of the hose will Not destroy the inner lining of the hose. Last edited by cab83_750; 04-26-2010 at 07:00 AM.

04-24-2010, 10:54 AM	#4 (permalink)
Billy830 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl. Age: 78 Posts: 31 Drives: 370Z Mag Black 6sp m Rep Power: 16	Oil cooler lines From a previous post from Modshack I believe he said not to use any ties or clamps on socket less hose ends. Also the collar on the socket hose ends are not there for looks they help hold the hose onto the fittings, I don't think it would be a good idea to remove them, they are there for a purpose. If you get your hose lengths correct ( measure once, measure twice) an inch or 2 longer can't hurt. You can have both hoses made with crimp on fittings for $120 including shipping. Hosemachine.com. I have said this before routing and clamping is the main focus on these lines. I have not installed mine yet. I have the parts but not the hoses and I am certainlly going to use crimp ons. But I want to look at all possibilities for the install. On all the posts the hoses are at the bottom of the mocal sanwich plate. Has anyone looked at other positions for the mocal plate. The bottom looks like its easy but is it the best position.

07-11-2010, 04:15 PM	#15 (permalink)
cossie1600 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: californee way Posts: 5,380 Drives: 370, Leaf Rep Power: 30	I didn't like how low the lines were sitting under the sway bar, I ended up running the lines over it by using the left side to run the inlet and right side of the bumper to run the outlet of the oil cooler Last edited by cossie1600; 07-11-2010 at 11:27 PM.

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04-22-2010, 04:57 PM	#2 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 16	No, stainless steel AQP (Aeroquip). Only 300+ miles since install and reinspected last night....everything intact. I used 3/4 heater hose split with clamps at all contact points. The cooler is a Setrab series 6, 24 row. I dont track the car and drive pretty conservatively but easily run 20-25 deg cooler....will see this summer as temp here are still pretty mild. I have read most of the comments about the hose failures and I too am concerned...not with my fittings or hose but with the amount of slack that may need to be required....when you do this install you will see that there just isnt that much room to play with. I routed my hose according to Vipors technique with no problems. However, the gap between the sandwich fittings and the bottom panel is essentially nonexistent. I wanted to use straight fitting off the sandwich, and actually purchased these, but the sway just wont allow it. My saving grace is probably the fact that I just dont 'get on it' much and consequently motor movement is low.

04-24-2010, 02:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
cab83_750 Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Posts: 887 Drives: 09 NISSAN 370Z Rep Power: 417	Those collars do NOT hold the hoses. They are there just to have a clean finish look.

04-24-2010, 10:56 PM	#6 (permalink)
JimZ Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Ft. Worth, TX Posts: 20 Drives: 2009 370Z NISMO 0357 Rep Power: 16	Billy, I had planned to use straight Aeroquip fittings off the Mocal plate directed to the front of the car...approx 90 deg from the "bottom" position but found this was just not possible due to other engine componets/sway bar. You can play with it but I think you too will find it not to be an option. Good luck

05-10-2010, 04:01 PM	#7 (permalink)
Boosted Josh Base Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 85 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 15	Just ordered everything to put this cooler together. Thanks Mod. I hope building the lines won't be a problem. I don't see how it could be that hard but that means it'll end up taking 3x longer than it should.

05-10-2010, 04:05 PM	#8 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 718	I just ordered everything, except the Sandwich plate it back ordered. hopefully I'll get it before the end of June cuz I wanna track with an oil cooler. Thanks Modshack for the helpful info though.

05-12-2010, 09:07 AM	#9 (permalink)
Boosted Josh Base Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 85 Drives: 09 370Z Rep Power: 15	A couple of parts are on back order from RPW. Evidently they have been delayed because of the volcano.

06-16-2010, 04:33 PM	#10 (permalink)
dejavu1611 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Houston Posts: 7 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z PG A7 Rep Power: 16	Hi Modshack, I was going over your DIY and decided to do it myself but I just now noticed that your fotki album is PW protected. Can you post/PM the PW or make it public? I recall a lot of useful pictures there. Thanks.

06-25-2010, 06:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
Billy830 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl. Age: 78 Posts: 31 Drives: 370Z Mag Black 6sp m Rep Power: 16	Oil cooler results Well I finally took the car one a little ride here in S Fl total 120 miles, Fl Turnpike and I95. Port Saint Lucie to DelRay Beach and back. To DelRay Outside Air Temp 93 cruising at 80-90 oil temps were at 210. Before oil cooler 220+ Back to PSL Outside Air Temp 86 cruising at 80-90 oil temps 195. Before oil cooler 220+. Works good for me

07-07-2010, 08:07 AM	#13 (permalink)
Cjanik Track Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 578 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 17	^^ very good idea for those worried about flex. tons of slack there!