DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>.

Modshack · 01-29-2010, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipor

Mod's thread, he gets the cred.

Thanks for the assist.....

kevin1985912 · 02-02-2010, 01:50 AM

For those two hoses, you just have to connect them to the cooler and the sandwhich plate right? or is it like the hose that connects to the right side of the cooler has to be connect to the right side of the sandwhich plate?

Modshack · 02-02-2010, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin1985912

For those two hoses, you just have to connect them to the cooler and the sandwhich plate right? or is it like the hose that connects to the right side of the cooler has to be connect to the right side of the sandwhich plate?

Yes. It's just a loop. Matters not which hose goes where..

kevin1985912 · 02-02-2010, 07:08 PM

thanks for your help, but i have another question, I saw there are holes drilled on the bottom of the cooler already, can i just use those holes, or do i have to have a bracket made. I'm asking this because I have never make a bracket before, and if i can just use those holes on the cooler it will make the job a lot easier.

Modshack · 02-03-2010, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevin1985912

thanks for your help, but i have another question, I saw there are holes drilled on the bottom of the cooler already, can i just use those holes, or do i have to have a bracket made. I'm asking this because I have never make a bracket before, and if i can just use those holes on the cooler it will make the job a lot easier.

You need to raise it a bit so the undertray and front bumper will mount without interference. If you choose to put the fittings on the top rather than the bottom you could possibly get away without a bracket. Honestly though, it's a very simple thing to make..

kevin1985912 · 02-03-2010, 11:22 PM

what are the dimensions for that bracket, how thick is it, and what material is it made of? I'm asking this because I can't find any metal plate lying around at my house, so i have to order one.

vipor · 02-04-2010, 09:46 AM

It looks like he just used some aluminum, not sure how thick. Roughly 11x5" (it's as wide as the cooler)

I'm sure something 1/8" or 1/4" thick would be more than enough.

Modshack · 02-04-2010, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipor

I'm sure something 1/8" or 1/4" thick would be more than enough.

Yeah...it's 1/8ths aluminum. Cooler width (11") by 4" ish

kevin1985912 · 02-04-2010, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Yeah...it's 1/8ths aluminum. Cooler width (11") by 4" ish

thank you for your help

m4a1mustang · 02-06-2010, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Modshack

Setrab and Mocal cooler cores are very nicely made. But they are made across the pond, so you are paying a certain extra cost there..

I've had nothing but good experience with the tru-cools. I've put them on 3 cars now and some of the installs are 6-7 years old with absolutely no issues.
It's just a simple heat exchanger. Pay a little or pay a lot....the results end up being the same.. Remember too, the Stillen does not include a thermostat...

So I've been doing more research about the Tru-Cools. Looks like they are manufactured by Long, which is DANA Holding Corporation's automotive thermal cooling division.

I am basically trying to determine if I should spend the $60 on a Tru-Cool or $220 on a Setrab cooler. I can't really find any hard evidence on which one is "better," and can really only make assumptions based on what little I know about both companies.

I know Setrab is highly regarded in the industry, so their brand name carries a bit of weight. They are also produced on a much smaller scale than the DANA/Long built coolers. I think this would be the reason for much of the price discrepancy, but I'm not sure.

I'm willing to pay more for better quality and performance, but my question is... is that really necessary?

I apologize for this nonsense -- just trying to figure out which one I should buy.

Billy830 · 02-07-2010, 11:34 PM

what you need is a remote thermostat that by passes the extra cooler under 200F, 200F and above the thermostat activates and routes the oil through the cooler. They are available. Perma-cool.com don't know the price, but will save a lot of heartache down the road.

Midax · 02-08-2010, 01:45 AM

Has anyone had any problems with the fitting between the elbows and the Tru-Cool oil cooler?

My friend and I did the mod and everything was fine, but after the road test the was some bad leaking around the elbows. We pulled them off and found that the treads were stripped off the elbows. I think that we might have been shipped the wrong size elbows. While he was installing the elbows he complained the they were tight, but he thought it was to prevent leaks. Luckly the oil cooler threading doesn't look damaged.

m4a1mustang · 02-08-2010, 09:40 AM

It looks to me like Modshack used some plumbers tape there to ensure a good seal.

Modshack · 02-09-2010, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Midax

Has anyone had any problems with the fitting between the elbows and the Tru-Cool oil cooler?

My friend and I did the mod and everything was fine, but after the road test the was some bad leaking around the elbows. We pulled them off and found that the treads were stripped off the elbows. I think that we might have been shipped the wrong size elbows. While he was installing the elbows he complained the they were tight, but he thought it was to prevent leaks. Luckly the oil cooler threading doesn't look damaged.

Those are tapered NPT threads. Overtightening them could be a problem with the aluminum fitting. There are steel elbows available too that should be a little sturdier. I did use some sealing tape originally, but had to re-seal one so I used a high temp Loctite sealer on the other...Both work. Do not over tighten after snug and in alignment

Midax · 02-09-2010, 11:45 AM

Thanks for the info. I think he over torqued them. He was cranking on them pretty hard. I should be getting some moe fittings in today.

02-04-2010, 09:46 AM	#112 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 42 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 49	It looks like he just used some aluminum, not sure how thick. Roughly 11x5" (it's as wide as the cooler) I'm sure something 1/8" or 1/4" thick would be more than enough. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

02-08-2010, 09:40 AM	#118 (permalink)
m4a1mustang A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern VA Posts: 55,385 Drives: on two wheels Rep Power: 6962	It looks to me like Modshack used some plumbers tape there to ensure a good seal. __________________ - Steve Zs & Coffee - Saturdays at 10AM in Fairfax, VA and Columbia, MD (Click the banner!) LIKE us on Facebook!

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02-02-2010, 01:50 AM	#107 (permalink)
kevin1985912 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: san diego Age: 39 Posts: 285 Drives: 370zMT touring sport Rep Power: 16	For those two hoses, you just have to connect them to the cooler and the sandwhich plate right? or is it like the hose that connects to the right side of the cooler has to be connect to the right side of the sandwhich plate?

02-02-2010, 07:08 PM	#109 (permalink)
kevin1985912 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: san diego Age: 39 Posts: 285 Drives: 370zMT touring sport Rep Power: 16	thanks for your help, but i have another question, I saw there are holes drilled on the bottom of the cooler already, can i just use those holes, or do i have to have a bracket made. I'm asking this because I have never make a bracket before, and if i can just use those holes on the cooler it will make the job a lot easier.

02-03-2010, 11:22 PM	#111 (permalink)
kevin1985912 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: san diego Age: 39 Posts: 285 Drives: 370zMT touring sport Rep Power: 16	what are the dimensions for that bracket, how thick is it, and what material is it made of? I'm asking this because I can't find any metal plate lying around at my house, so i have to order one.

02-07-2010, 11:34 PM	#116 (permalink)
Billy830 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Port Saint Lucie Fl. Age: 78 Posts: 31 Drives: 370Z Mag Black 6sp m Rep Power: 16	what you need is a remote thermostat that by passes the extra cooler under 200F, 200F and above the thermostat activates and routes the oil through the cooler. They are available. Perma-cool.com don't know the price, but will save a lot of heartache down the road.

02-08-2010, 01:45 AM	#117 (permalink)
Midax Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lawrenceville Posts: 13 Drives: 02 WRX, 09 Nismo Rep Power: 15	Has anyone had any problems with the fitting between the elbows and the Tru-Cool oil cooler? My friend and I did the mod and everything was fine, but after the road test the was some bad leaking around the elbows. We pulled them off and found that the treads were stripped off the elbows. I think that we might have been shipped the wrong size elbows. While he was installing the elbows he complained the they were tight, but he thought it was to prevent leaks. Luckly the oil cooler threading doesn't look damaged.

02-09-2010, 11:45 AM	#120 (permalink)
Midax Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lawrenceville Posts: 13 Drives: 02 WRX, 09 Nismo Rep Power: 15	Thanks for the info. I think he over torqued them. He was cranking on them pretty hard. I should be getting some moe fittings in today.