DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>.

evensen007 · 03-28-2016, 08:52 AM

Glad to know I wasn't the sole person out there that had the issue. At this point it is STUCK. I used vice grips, vice, everything. It's not coming out. The cooler will start to bend at this point before I even get movement on the fitting.

I just can't believe that this isn't mentioned anywhere. Is it the luck of the draw on what 2309 90d fittings you get? Do the oil coolers grab threaded differently? The only thing I can think of is to just use the straight fittings and then a 90 fitting like the one that comes off of the sandwich plate. I need to buy a whole new tru cool now which really annoys me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjlazer

I had issues also and it was a pain in the *** trying to rotate the fitting. You might have to use a vice to try to rotate the whole cooler to move, and you might have to order a new fitting if it's all scratched up like that. Also be careful with the cooler because it is made out of aluminum and it will bend.

tjlazer · 04-03-2016, 12:49 AM

As I was tightening the fittings I noticed one did not turn as much as the other so I had to stop. The other fitting seemed to be able to turn more on the threads. Did you have a hard time threading it on? Yeah the cooler is aluminum so it can bend easy. Sounds like you might be SOL. Might have to order another one. They're not that expensive. Be more careful next time and thread it on slowly. You can also wrap the fitting in a cloth to protect it from damage.

evensen007 · 04-05-2016, 02:28 PM

In my case, both 90's threaded with the same amount of resistance, so it would have been impossible to get them both pointing the same way without doing this damage.

I called RPW and they were really nice. They gave me a break on the replacement oil cooler and also the 90d swivel fittings that I will now be using. I would recommend using the 90 swivel fittings (like the ones at the sandwich plate) so that you don't get yourself into this situation where the 2 90 fittings off of the oil cooler refuse to thread so that they both face the same way. Live and learn.

Bananaz · 04-06-2016, 06:13 PM

Gonna be doing this soon!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

tjlazer · 04-07-2016, 01:26 PM

I had the same issue so I had to make sure they both pointed in the same direction.

chknhawk · 10-25-2016, 12:22 PM

I know this is an old post but I figured I would share my old install pics.. the piece I found to mount the cooler was an actual "tool" I found in home depot. Just drilled for custom mounting. It had a slotted groove on both sides that slid onto the mounting area and the cooler. Then I just drilled and secured with bolts. I also removed the metal "bumper" underneath the bumper for airflow and weight reduction. Say what you will but that metal bar is not stopping something traveling at 60+ mph regardless... might stop the engine from ending up in your lap... just drive correctly and be careful. Thats my disclaimer. Hope this helps.

dts3 · 08-03-2018, 10:40 AM

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my questions are relevant to this particular install.

As some have pointed out, most other kits/instructions suggest mounting the cooler with the fittings on top. I understand the merits of mounting it fittings-down. One thing that the fittings-up method allows for is the "priming" of the cooler with a quart of oil before the sump itself is refilled after the install. Without being able to prime the cooler, what is the correct method to go about the refill? In my mind you would need to turn the car on to begin circulation, then turn off to add more oil once it's made it's way through the cooler. With the thermo. plate will the cooler fill up enough without bringing the car up to 180+ before adding the last quart of oil?

Are there any installs of the 36/48 row coolers? Were there any fitment issues?

My Z is 2017, so I have the oem oil/water cooler, which I believe is just another sandwich plate behind the filter. Do I have to remove that (

) or are able to just stack the two sandwich plates back to back (

)

nuttyApprenti · 08-09-2021, 03:31 AM

Longshot as the thread is so old, but has anyone had issues with seepage from the seal between the mocal sandwich and the OEM sandwich for the small cooler?

It seems the centre threaded fitting doesn't tighten the sandwich down all the way, as if its designed so that the oil filter installation does the final seal compression. With the 1" fitting tightened down the sandwich can still rotate without too much effort. Is this normal or do others find its sealed up tight before the filter is installed?

The seepage starts after a 2 or 3 100km drives only, when I check it I find the sandwich fairly easy to rotate when I move it by grabbing the hose fittings.

Wouldn't mind some comparisons before I remove the OEM cooler and try again with the Mocal installed directly on the block.

04-03-2016, 12:49 AM	#302 (permalink)
tjlazer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tacoma Age: 53 Posts: 2,496 Drives: Z34, R35 Rep Power: 20	DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>. As I was tightening the fittings I noticed one did not turn as much as the other so I had to stop. The other fitting seemed to be able to turn more on the threads. Did you have a hard time threading it on? Yeah the cooler is aluminum so it can bend easy. Sounds like you might be SOL. Might have to order another one. They're not that expensive. Be more careful next time and thread it on slowly. You can also wrap the fitting in a cloth to protect it from damage. __________________ 2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

04-06-2016, 06:13 PM	#304 (permalink)
Bananaz Track Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Central Jersey Posts: 637 Drives: 09 370z 6MT/B+Sport Rep Power: 14	Gonna be doing this soon! Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk __________________ BC - SSR - Evo-R - ViS - SPC - ZSpeed - Beluga - Blox - 35% Tint - Clutch Spring - Fang Forced Air Ducting

04-07-2016, 01:26 PM	#305 (permalink)
tjlazer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Tacoma Age: 53 Posts: 2,496 Drives: Z34, R35 Rep Power: 20	I had the same issue so I had to make sure they both pointed in the same direction. __________________ 2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

08-09-2021, 03:31 AM	#308 (permalink)
nuttyApprenti Base Member Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: abu dhabi Posts: 2 Drives: 370Z GT, 2015, AT7 Rep Power: 8	Sandwich plate leak Longshot as the thread is so old, but has anyone had issues with seepage from the seal between the mocal sandwich and the OEM sandwich for the small cooler? It seems the centre threaded fitting doesn't tighten the sandwich down all the way, as if its designed so that the oil filter installation does the final seal compression. With the 1" fitting tightened down the sandwich can still rotate without too much effort. Is this normal or do others find its sealed up tight before the filter is installed? The seepage starts after a 2 or 3 100km drives only, when I check it I find the sandwich fairly easy to rotate when I move it by grabbing the hose fittings. Wouldn't mind some comparisons before I remove the OEM cooler and try again with the Mocal installed directly on the block.

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04-05-2016, 02:28 PM	#303 (permalink)
evensen007 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Sanford Posts: 150 Drives: defensively Rep Power: 11	In my case, both 90's threaded with the same amount of resistance, so it would have been impossible to get them both pointing the same way without doing this damage. I called RPW and they were really nice. They gave me a break on the replacement oil cooler and also the 90d swivel fittings that I will now be using. I would recommend using the 90 swivel fittings (like the ones at the sandwich plate) so that you don't get yourself into this situation where the 2 90 fittings off of the oil cooler refuse to thread so that they both face the same way. Live and learn.

08-03-2018, 10:40 AM	#307 (permalink)
dts3 Track Member Join Date: May 2018 Location: Farmington Hills, MI Posts: 599 Drives: 08 Expedition Rep Power: 6765	Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my questions are relevant to this particular install. As some have pointed out, most other kits/instructions suggest mounting the cooler with the fittings on top. I understand the merits of mounting it fittings-down. One thing that the fittings-up method allows for is the "priming" of the cooler with a quart of oil before the sump itself is refilled after the install. Without being able to prime the cooler, what is the correct method to go about the refill? In my mind you would need to turn the car on to begin circulation, then turn off to add more oil once it's made it's way through the cooler. With the thermo. plate will the cooler fill up enough without bringing the car up to 180+ before adding the last quart of oil? Are there any installs of the 36/48 row coolers? Were there any fitment issues? My Z is 2017, so I have the oem oil/water cooler, which I believe is just another sandwich plate behind the filter. Do I have to remove that ( ) or are able to just stack the two sandwich plates back to back ( )