That convinced me to not use OEM (or my dealers free oil changes for life)....

Both Made by Champ
 

K&N and Royal Purple oil filters are both made by Champ. I can't find out if they are different though. Looks like both are excellent filters.

When I picked up a filter and oil today from the dealer, they gave me a different filter than the one they cut open the G37 forums. They cut the 15208-65f0c, I was given a 15208-9e000. From another post on a different G35 forum, they said the 9e000 has metal endcaps. It's an older post, so they may have changed the construction. But what have they gave for you guys, if you know?

I'm going with K&N and willing to give the RP one a try once it's available in my area. I also want more feedback on the RP since it's newly released.

At 25 Micron, there are Superior Filters on the Market..

Take a look at this Conservatively Rated 15 Micron Absolute Filter.

http://bestoil4you.com/files/g2235EAAM_EAOM.pdf

No Other filter will do the job as well.

Why send people to BITOG ? Let's get some oil talk going here.. I would be happy to share my 35 yrs with the group..

And yes, the AMSOIL EA Series Filters are the best you can buy but about $3.00 less than what you have quoted for the best filter on the market is a cheap price to pay. If they weren't worth it, I wouldn't keep putting them on my 350,000 mile van.

Although Champ labs may be the assembly point, the filters are different. Any filter manufacturer has access to about 75 different media and various internal components. Champ also makes $1.50 quick lube filters. I know for a fact they are not the same.

I think you may find part of your answer above..

To the OP..... I believe those filters cross to Mobil 1 M-110 for the longer and M-108 for the shorter.. They are interchangeable... The long would be an AMSOIL EAO-13, the short I would have to look up but it also fits various Kawasaki, Honda, Yamaha and Victory Motorcycles... AMSOIL M/C Filter # is EAOM-103

Doc

Yep, just as I thought.... went and checked... The filters are interchangeable.. the Purolator 612 is a little shorter, same internal specs as the 610

AMSOIL EAO-12 is the Shorter at 2.57" and about the same as the 103 M/C Filter.. EAO-13 is the longer filter at 3.4"

Doc

So Doc, pertaining to the Amsoil filter, I had decided to go with the EAO-12 without realizing I could go with the EAO-13 for increased oil capacity. Anything at all that will help with the oil temps in this Z is a good thing. I understand it's just a bit longer but what kind of capacity increase am I looking at?

P.S. Thanks for chiming in.

Oh my, we have a resident Oil Doc now :) If you know more than the rest of us about oil (which is quite likely), then welcome :) We have lots of threads re Nissan Ester Oil, other synthetics with and without esters and the necessity or lack thereof, engine oil temp issues, breakins, etc that could use your input.

Man, I'm glad I found this thread! The other threads regarding oil for the 370Z in the other forum areas were making my head spin!

So, here's what I'm thinking for my next oil change: Amsoil SAE 5W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil, and an EAO12 filter. Does that sound right, or should I go with the Amsoil Signature Series 0W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil?

And, at what mileage should I do the first oil change on my new 370Z? Seems like most people do it between 1500 - 2000 miles instead of the 3750 that the Service Manual says.

Thanks!

Early oil changes have shown some insolubles and particles so changing around 1000 probably isn't a bad idea. A lot of people also think running a little longer with a dino oil to let the piston rings fully seat is a good idea. I haven't seen this proven one way or the other but it couldn't hurt to play it safe.

My plan is to change at 1000 with Nissan Ester Oil and the Amsoil filter. After that I will change around 4000 with Amsoil full synthetic and Amsoil filter. That's just my plan. Playing it a bit safe with the piston ring seating and then going top quality from there.

EAO-12 vs: EAO-13... You are less than a 1/10th of a qt and probably closer to less than 2 ounces as the filter media is taking that extra space up. I would take a look at either the AMSOIL Filter Relocation Kit or if you have the room, a by-pass kit... Talk about added filtration, more oil capacity and oil cooling. If there is room, right up behind the front bumper is an Excellent spot.

I am all for early oil changes. Only the unknowing (especially at Dealers) will pass what I whileheartedly believe is a vital step.

As far as 'Break-in", it has been shown that there is very little break-in today due to modern machining and materials. That initial change interval is necessary to get machining and casting debris out of the engine.

Although Ester oils are very good (Ester is Synthetic) performance tests show that the PAO w/Esters are better performers. The Esters are necessary to polarize the oil, that is why some less expensive PAO's may not a wise choice. Additives are costly.

Ester based oils seem to attract a little more moisture than PAO's and are more expensive.

Doc

Welcome Doc!

Thanks,

Doc

So Doc - Should I NOT make the switch to Amsoil SAE 5W-30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil at 1000 miles (it would be my first oil change)? In other words, should I stay with dino oil a little longer?

I did my change with the royal purple filter. The g37 uses it, so what the heck, so far no problems.