i was running a pair of U shaped pipes to bypass the throttle bodies while keeping the hoses as-is to aid reversibility. I wasn't satisfied with the messy hoses and the heat radiating off them onto nearby components such as hard brake lines, throttle bodies etc. I went as far as strapping them to the strut bar.

This weekend i decided to get rid of the contraptions completely. The only part i couldn't remove was the hard line behind the intake manifold as it was welded to the vacuum line beneath. I used 5/16 fuel hose with 8mm stainless bolts jammed and clamped in one end.

Since i had already removed the coolant hoses from the throttle bodies, i did not have to remove any intake components.

The hardest and most painful part was actually the hose connecting the metal pipe on the left of the engine (the one which is almost beneath the intake pipe). It probably would've been less painful if i removed the intake pipes in the way but mine are double wrapped so that was going to be a last resort option.

For the hose connecting at the rear of the engine, there's actually heaps of room compared to other areas of the engine bay. Enough room to get a regular pair of pliers down to release the ring clip. Any stubborn hoses - simply jimmy up with a flat blade screwdriver to encourage it a bit then work it off by hand. I suggest lube-ing the plug/plugged hoses before fitting as the one was the most stubborn to push on.

At first it looks daunting because you can't actually see it from either side but don't be afraid to put your knees up on the radiator core support and pull yourself up using the strut bar. You'll be working in an arse-up position on your fours - or if you like, it's a perfect time to call your other half to help ;)

Put a cushion or gym mat on the core support and also on the intake manifold as you'll be resting your elbow there (remove the decorative covers). Much much easier.

On a side note, my heater started working properly after i did this. Maybe there was trapped air in my U pipes because i mounted them so high.

Happy modding :)

I am cleaning throttle bodies on a couple of Z cars this weekend. While I'm removing the TBs, I figured I'd go head and do this hose delete on my Z. Definitely straightforward, but I'm going to ask for one clarification regarding the bypass hose.

The bypass hose should go from the Heater Pipe (E) located below the driver side TB to the Water Outlet (C) located at the rear of the engine, correct? And my understanding of Synolimit's post is I can leave the hose connected to the Water Outlet (C), disconnect it from the passenger side TB, rotate it around the engine, and connect it to the Heater Pipe (E).

Yes, that all sounds correct. Don't forget to blow out whatever lines remain (or just the TBs and the metal pipe along the rear that end up with open ends, if you're removing the other now-useless rubber hoses) with compressed air or something. Some like to cap them off to keep out dust and bugs as well. The water outlet connection at the rear (C) is hard to see sometimes, but it's in the center of the backside of the engine, and it's a small nipple facing straight upwards.

Thank you, sir :tiphat:

The TBs are coming off completely for cleaning, so those will be easy to blow out. I'll figure out something for the hard line at the rear - I've got a really small can of air that will probably work just fine once I remove the intakes and engine cover. Also, I'm going to pick up some small rubber stoppers that I am hoping will work well to plug all the open lines

They look like the really small ones here:

Could you put a stop-**** (jokes ensue) inline so that you could open it up during winter and close during summer? It would obviously have to be heat and corrosion resistant.

I completed this DIY last night. Very easy. You have been repped :tiphat:

One thing that seemed to make this pretty easy was leaving the hose connected to the Water Outlet (C) and just rotating it around to the Heater Pipe (E) after disconnecting it from the passenger side TB. This avoids the most difficult part of the project, which is disconnecting the hose to the Water Outlet (C).

do you notice any difference with this mod MR Jar???

I know is not a big mod that you are going to get 5+ whp... :tup:

BTW i found this thread too...

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...le-bodies.html

i think its the same but more easy lol!!!

Thanks!!

This mod is not going to translate into noticeable power or anything. I cleaned my TBs at the same time and did the throttle relearn procedure, which accounts for the noticeable difference I experienced.

I just posted in the other link, but that method looks to be a lot more complicated. I think Synolimit's suggestion of using hose #6 to complete the circuit is much easier. It requires removing fewer hoses and the most difficult one to get to is left connected - hose #6 at C. It does not require any modifying or fabricating of hoses. And it leaves the hard line at the back disconnected meaning fewer hot coolant lines in your engine bay.

Just leave hose #6 connected to C and connect the other end to E. Remove the other three hoses. Simple :tup:

Thanks for the review bro :) i think im going to do it :tup: