Originally Posted by semtex I honestly can't remember if he even used one. I remember him using an air ratchet, and I think he may have just set the torque
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12-18-2010, 05:42 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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u cant set torque on a air rachet, inless its an electric one from canadain tire haahha.. well atleast everyone ive owned u cant, theres settings like 1-2-3-4 but its not accurate, inless he knows what torque each setting is. but i highly doubt that.
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08-11-2013, 03:52 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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To revive this a bit i appreciate the thread and ill throw you some rep! I tackled these this weekend and had an issue like some with the header studs stripping out. Luckily i was able to chase the threads with a tap and die set however it was nearly a bust. I found that my secret weapon here was my other half who is a mechanic as well. Her arms can get down behind the headers and she did a lot of the confined space work.
Here you can see the thread tool as i chase the threads on the block. ...and here you can see the smoke rising from the headers thanks to the DEI wrap. I actually had people trying to get me out of the car at a stop light on the way home because they thought the engine was on fire. Sorry for the pics being sideways....im too lazy to go back and rotate them then re-upload.
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07-01-2014, 12:36 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the DIY!
I got some long tubes in the other day. A ratcheting 14mm wrench is a god send. The Kobalt that I bought from Lowes was able to withstand the abuse. I was surprised when it was able to stand up to some of these bolts. I thought for sure it would break once I put some torque into it. Also, I had no issues removing the front o2 sensors. A little twist from a 22mm wrench is all it took to break them loose. After that, they just spun right off. I'd say it was about the same as the rear o2s. Those heat shields though... The front bolt on those was a PITA. I swear, whomever put those on did it wrong. The drivers side snapped off and I had to cut the passenger off once I stripped the bolt.
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Competition Clutch|Fast Intentions|Maxbore|NST|Setrab|Stillen|Tomei|Uprev| Z1 Avant Garde|SPC|Stance|Whiteline Aerojacket|Seibon|Tanabe|TRS|TWM Last edited by aszyd; 07-01-2014 at 12:39 PM. |
08-09-2014, 04:19 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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If you guys ever remove your radiator, whether you're installing an aftermarket one or for whatever reason... It makes header removal/install a piece of cake. I had mine out, along with the support bracket/fans and I was able to pull the drivers side header out from the front. And I was able to get to each stud relatively easy. Alittle extra work involved obviously and now I have to recharge my A/C... But believe me it wasn't as hard as what people make it out to be. Just thought I would share.
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08-09-2014, 05:07 AM | #36 (permalink) |
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^ Totally agree. I'd even argue that if you're going to do headers yourself, you should pull the radiator regardless. It's worth the time investment just to make the header job easier, and then you might as well upgrade the radiator while you have it out.
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01-21-2016, 10:38 AM | #38 (permalink) |
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Did you guys ever have any issue with the drivers side collector hitting the steering shaft when bank the car RT( On/off ramps hyw) I have an issue with mine. The clearance looks good .
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01-05-2017, 08:01 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Did wrapping the headers rot them yet...I've bought the wrap and just about to do it...but now I'm worried they may rot. I work in an industry that wraps steam lines and when they pull the wrap off...the pipe is pitted really bad...and that's much thicker piping.
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316whp/262tq 12.38 @ 110mph on 3.91 gears 336whp/273tq Didn't push it hard enough. Turbo Time |
01-10-2017, 05:29 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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I wrapped mine, took about 4 hours...yours turned out really nice
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316whp/262tq 12.38 @ 110mph on 3.91 gears 336whp/273tq Didn't push it hard enough. Turbo Time |
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