DIY: Steering Wheel Removal

Mr&Mrs

Disclaimer: You will be working with an air bag during this process I am not responsible for any damages to yourself or property. I am not a mechanic nor do I imply that I am, this is simply a guide I made for installing a CF Element Wheel Ring.

Member aszyd purchased this to help with his removal:DEWALT 1 in. Torx Security Drill Bit Tip Set (7-Piece)-DWA1TS-7 at The Home Depot

Now since that has been said lets get on with it.

Tools Needed:

Cordless Drill
1/2 inch or 3/4 ratchet with extension
T30 Tamper Proof Torx Head (I suggest one that will fit in an electric drill)
Six point 19mm Socket
10mm Socket
3 inch extension
Needle Nose Pliers

Removal:

This is very simple if you have the right tools, I did not so I had to run out and pick something up. That was the Tamper Proof Torx Head (it has a hole in it, not flat like a normal Torx). Without this you cant continue so go get one.

!!!DO NOT BEGIN REMOVAL WITHOUT DISCONNECTING BOTH BATTERY CABLES!!!

First, remove both battery cables with a 10mm socket. Now wait at least 3 minutes before going to step two, to insure power is gone.

Second, remove the two plastic caps on both sides of the steering wheel.


I only pictured one side, do the same on both.

Third, remove the two T30 size Tamper Proof screws holding in the air bag. (They are located behind the caps you removed.) These have way to much loctite on them I could not get them to budge with the Torx Screw Driver. Luckily I also got one that would fit in the drill with an adapter.

Fourth, once the two T30 screws have been removed you can slide the air bag out. Pull gently straight towards you. Do not pull it out to far there are three cords that need to be removed. In the picture below you will notice a yellow, and an orange clip. use the needles nose pliers and push in on the black sides, then pull straight out. The other harness is just like all the others out there so I didn't picture it.


Set the air bag off to the side, do not bump or drop it.

Fifth, remove the center bolt holding on the wheel using a 19mm six point socket with 3" extension. I used a 3/4 ratchet but it would probably be easier with a 1/2 inch.


Sixth, grab both sides of the wheel and pull towards your body, it should come off with little effort.


Seventh, remove the plastic shroud from the back of the wheel to be used on the new wheel. It just snaps on and off.

Now just put it back the way you took it off, very simple. Here is an installed photo.


Thanks for looking +rep if you liked, or used this DIY.

If you have any other question shoot me a PM.

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Carbon_z

awesome dyi

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Full Carbon Fiber Nissan 370z "400zTT" Fully Built 4.0L Twin Turbo 1300hp, 1100whp. Follow me on Instagram at http://www.instagram.com/carbonz.

Carbon Fiber Element

Perfect...thanx for the DIY man!

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AllForTheCash

Any "Air Bag error lights" once the battery was reconnected?

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2010 370z Brilliant Silver/Frost - Touring - Sport - Navigation - 6MT

spearfish25

If you disconnect the battery, there shouldn't be any SES lights when you have it all back together and reconnect the battery. The car will never know you had the airbag disconnected.

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2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

Mr&Mrs

This is correct, just make sure you do not re connect the battery until completed everything is fine.

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kkruel55

About how long did it take? Did it take long to reinstall?

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2010 Magnetic Black Coupe 6 speed-- Powerhouse Amuse//AP Racing//Volk Racing//Stillen//Tein//SPC//Hotchkis//INGS+1//MRWorks//Fast Intentions

Mr&Mrs

Once I had everything I needed, no more then an hour. Having done it now, 20 minutes if I were to help someone else.

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370zFORme!!

Has anyone in Socal done this and if so would you be willing to meet up to help me out? Thanks guys!

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87' Honda Civic Hatchback: Kaput @ 288,000 miles, 90' Toyota Celica: Kaput @ 175,000 miles, 93' Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4: Kaput @ 138,000 miles, 06' Scion Tc: Traded in @ 64,000 miles, 10' Nissan 370z: Traded in @ 25,000 miles, 12' Subaru Impreza Sti: Current.

kellyefields

Robert you will need to bring that tamper hex to me and help me. I pulled the trigger on the red carbon fiber one. +1 becasue I will be using your help and DIY.

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370zFORme!!

You wont be disappointed.

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87' Honda Civic Hatchback: Kaput @ 288,000 miles, 90' Toyota Celica: Kaput @ 175,000 miles, 93' Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4: Kaput @ 138,000 miles, 06' Scion Tc: Traded in @ 64,000 miles, 10' Nissan 370z: Traded in @ 25,000 miles, 12' Subaru Impreza Sti: Current.

Mr&Mrs

Kelly give me a call today so we can set up a day to do this before I leave for vacation. That red wheel is going to look so awesome!

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Fly1 Motorsports

So I got to the point where I'm removing the two torx bolts on either side of the wheel, but hit a snag. One side came out OK, but the other wouldn't budge a bit. I tried a drill, screwdriver, etc. - and finally it looks like I stripped the torx bolt. Grrrrreat. FML

Anyone else have this problem? Figure out a way to get it out?? Helllllp...

Mr&Mrs

Oh man I'm sorry! They have way to much loctite on them I couldn't get them to budge with out a drill. I pressed as hard as I could then bumped the drill on the max torque. That got them loose enough to finish by hand.

Sounds like your going to need to try and drill into the head a little then find the right size easy out to remove it. If that does not work get a real high quality bit and drill it all the way out and re-thread it.

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Mr&Mrs

Also I see you called them a torx. You did buy a tamper proof torx right? It has a small hole on the bottom of the torx head. If not you may still be able to get it out with the proper bit. Again I'm not real clear if you were using a tamper torx or not because the regular torx even the correct size will not work.

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