I bought a salvage Z. Airbag was blown, seller had stripped the bolts. I tried all the suggestions in this thread to no avail. A few things I also tried
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09-20-2017, 06:10 PM | #91 (permalink) |
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I bought a salvage Z. Airbag was blown, seller had stripped the bolts. I tried all the suggestions in this thread to no avail. A few things I also tried unsuccessfully but not, I think, in this thread:
1. Use next size up torx, t35 security and pound in with hammer. 2. Increase friction with any of the following; valve grinding compound, rubber band, duct tape, green scrubber material from back of sponge, steel wool. So I was at the point of drilling them out but decided to see what my local shop said. Their mechanic with 25 yrs experience got them out. He did a lot of picking at them from what I could see and got the intended bit to finally grab. Well worth the 50 bucks to keep me from screwing it up further. I was having nightmares about how to hold the drill steady and how it would interact with the small security pin in the middle of the bolt. To the guy who got it out with needlenose visegrips, you dah man, I tried several and no way could I get them in there... |
01-27-2018, 04:08 AM | #92 (permalink) | |
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No 4: Manual says to just lift up the locking tabs on the tops of the clockspring connectors of the airbag rather than remove them. It says once the tabs are lifted each clock spring connector can be removed. No 5 & 9 Is the small hook removeable or do you have to bend it to release the airbag harnesses? |
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01-29-2018, 12:23 PM | #93 (permalink) |
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No. 4 - use your own judgement on how to remove it. If you have a manual, use those instructions as they are straight from the maker. Be careful with those connectors as they are special and can be hard and expensive to source. They can be hard to pull up if the right spots are not pinched. Probably meant to be like that so they don't jiggle loose.
No. 9 - loop is open at the bottom cables can just be move out of loop. Do what makes practical sense. If it's not going smoothly, don't force it but progressive force may need to be used in some situations like any DIY install.
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01-29-2018, 02:36 PM | #94 (permalink) | |
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The information for No. 4 comes from the Nissan service manual but I am not looking forward to tackling those connectors. |
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02-15-2018, 01:17 PM | #95 (permalink) |
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As an update I fitted my new steering wheel today and I was surprised to find that a 2017 base model only has one airbag connector that was indeed removable by raising the black portion of the clockspring connector with a small screwdriver.
Biggest problem was my factory wheel had a counterweight/anti vibration plate? fitted at 12 oclock on the centre hub. My replacement remodelled OEM Juke /370Z steering wheel had partial holes that were not threaded. I had to drill the holes and tap the threads. Despite trying two different spline positions I think I will have to get the tracking done as the mark on the steering wheel is off. |
01-21-2019, 05:19 AM | #97 (permalink) |
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No puller was required when I changed my steering wheel. I just unscrewed the retaining nut a fair way then pulled on the steering wheel which released very easily.
My biggest problem was unscrewing the two airbag retaining bolts as its easy to round off the Torx heads due to excess Loctite . I obtained replacements in advance from the Nissan Dealership. |
01-21-2019, 07:02 AM | #98 (permalink) | |
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01-14-2021, 08:41 PM | #99 (permalink) | |
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Horn won’t beep
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01-16-2021, 07:29 AM | #100 (permalink) |
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New wheel probably didn't come with the little, round, copper horn contact points. (2) Mine didn't and I had to complain and get some sent to me, which took another 2 months.
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02-01-2021, 12:03 AM | #101 (permalink) |
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While you might be correct, I am learning towards this being an issue with the connection of the grey plug that sits to the left of the airbag. My reasoning behind this is due to my pick up/end call button no longer working after this install, in addition to the horn. Do you have any pictures of the copper pieces? I purchased my wheel from @Jaliscos_carbonfiber on Instagram, and he didn't mention anything like that. If I remember correctly, when I first installed the wheel, the red racing line was like 5-10 degrees off center. This led to me removing the wheel two or three times in total in an attempt to get it center (this was fixed when I got my alignment). I also had an EXTREMELY hard time (every time I removed the wheel) disconnecting the grey plug due to my fingers being too large to reach the release for the grey harness. As a result, I had to use numerous random objects such as skewers, and long screwdrivers in order to push the clip down.
Last edited by Horizon; 02-03-2021 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Made it clearer to understand. |
02-01-2021, 01:44 PM | #102 (permalink) | |
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02-03-2021, 11:26 AM | #103 (permalink) | |
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Horn and Buttons won’t work after install
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Side note: I don’t really know how to use this site well, is there a way to get a notification that you responded to my comment? I don’t really like having to come back to this page and check for updates every few days. |
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02-03-2021, 08:52 PM | #104 (permalink) |
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After doing some more research today about how a clock spring works, I think you might be right. While I don't exactly remember purposely spinning the spring, I do recall it moving, and I can totally see myself getting bored and just spinning it for fun.
Last edited by Horizon; 02-20-2021 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Spelling. |
06-19-2021, 10:52 AM | #105 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the guide easiest install ever once I found a wrench big enough to give me some leverage with security bolts gosh Nissan why so much loctite!
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