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This was a great reference for installing my new steering wheel.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Thanks so much for the DIY, was a very easy process when done carefully with the proper tools. Just had to reset the windows to open/close properly when opening/closing the doors after reconnecting battery.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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No 4: Manual says to just lift up the locking tabs on the tops of the clockspring connectors of the airbag rather than remove them. It says once the tabs are lifted each clock spring connector can be removed. No 5 & 9 Is the small hook removeable or do you have to bend it to release the airbag harnesses? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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No. 4 - use your own judgement on how to remove it. If you have a manual, use those instructions as they are straight from the maker. Be careful with those connectors as they are special and can be hard and expensive to source. They can be hard to pull up if the right spots are not pinched. Probably meant to be like that so they don't jiggle loose.
No. 9 - loop is open at the bottom cables can just be move out of loop. Do what makes practical sense. If it's not going smoothly, don't force it but progressive force may need to be used in some situations like any DIY install.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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The information for No. 4 comes from the Nissan service manual but I am not looking forward to tackling those connectors. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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As an update I fitted my new steering wheel today and I was surprised to find that a 2017 base model only has one airbag connector that was indeed removable by raising the black portion of the clockspring connector with a small screwdriver.
Biggest problem was my factory wheel had a counterweight/anti vibration plate? fitted at 12 oclock on the centre hub. My replacement remodelled OEM Juke /370Z steering wheel had partial holes that were not threaded. I had to drill the holes and tap the threads. Despite trying two different spline positions I think I will have to get the tracking done as the mark on the steering wheel is off. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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I bought a salvage Z. Airbag was blown, seller had stripped the bolts. I tried all the suggestions in this thread to no avail. A few things I also tried unsuccessfully but not, I think, in this thread:
1. Use next size up torx, t35 security and pound in with hammer. 2. Increase friction with any of the following; valve grinding compound, rubber band, duct tape, green scrubber material from back of sponge, steel wool. So I was at the point of drilling them out but decided to see what my local shop said. Their mechanic with 25 yrs experience got them out. He did a lot of picking at them from what I could see and got the intended bit to finally grab. Well worth the 50 bucks to keep me from screwing it up further. I was having nightmares about how to hold the drill steady and how it would interact with the small security pin in the middle of the bolt. To the guy who got it out with needlenose visegrips, you dah man, I tried several and no way could I get them in there... |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the guide easiest install ever once I found a wrench big enough to give me some leverage with security bolts gosh Nissan why so much loctite!
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#10 (permalink) | |
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