Switch panel garage door opener
 

Edit: Image were doing some serious margin rape so the album is here but is in reverse order

So I hate having switch blanks so I picked up three switches to fill them. A side effect of this is now I had to figure out what to switch on and off.
I decided to relocate my garage door opener. I am also going to skip over stuff that has been covered else where such as how to remove the cup holder and switch panel (hint: pull hard and remove the screws)
Tools:
Flat screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Soldering iron
Solder
assorted lengths of wire... or like a foot of 20 aug wire
DMM (digital multi-meter) volt-ohm meter will work also
Electrical engineering degree (optional)


Step one: Open garage door opener and remove circuit board


Step Two:Remove dummy switches and insert new switches I used these for this project you will need a momentary single pole single throw PN: 7700003


Step Three:
Figure out how the board works, specifically the switch. My one board switch was a double pole single throw switch (four leads but one switch), so I had to do some creative wiring (read: shorting) to make my single pole single throw switch work. Enter the assorted lengths of wire...


In the next picture you will see a jumper and the wires going to the switch, You will also see a terrible soldering job because all I had was huge solder and didn't feel like taking it in to work tomorrow so I just made it work.


Step Four: Solder leads to switch


Step 4.1: Test

Step Five: Reinstall (protip: I wrapped the board in electrical tape just to be safe but it probably would be fine without it... probably)


It really isn't difficult if you have basic soldering skills and are careful not to short anything that you do not mean to short. Enjoy, and if you blow up your garage door opener it is not my fault.

pics?

Pics are in the album linked at the top. I can't get them to post without issue so rather than have it look like crap I just kept it in the album.

Edit: I attached them for those who enjoy thumbnails and clicking.

Exactly something I want to do when I get my car!

Will look better, and save me from buying and installing a Homelink Mirror.

THANKS!!!! :tup:

So are you still battery powered? If not I'm assuming you have a 12V powered garage door opener direct wired.

Still battery powered. When this battery runs out I may build something so that it runs off of 12V but for now all that is different is the switch.

nice, saw this on ebay and there's a few like it
NEW OEM ACESSORY AUTO DIMMING, COMPASS, HOMELINK MIRROR 2008-2011 MAZDA CX9, CX7 | eBay

Homelink in my car FTW but very nice usage of otherwise worthless space.

Is there something that makes the Mazda connection special? Looks like a regular homelink mirror to me. Good price.

But thanks for bringing up this thread again, I've already bought the switches to convert my 3 armrest switches.

only reason is because it is so cheap. There are a few gentex cheap mirrors.
I actually offered $15 for one of these, we'll see if they accept. What I was going to do is go ahead and paint it black and put it behind the rear view mirror so you can't see it.

LAND RANGE ROVER HOMELINK | eBay

no go, seller wants $37. I will probably pick up one of these.
Amazon.com: LiftMaster Garage Door Opener Three-Button 315 MHz Mini Remote Control model 370LM/956D: Home Improvement

Here is a link to my go at this mod.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ml#post1728931

Thanks jagodago!!!!

I picked up an oem gentex mirror off craigslist brand new with all install hardware for $200!!!

Heh, I haven't been on here in a while and took a look today and was surprised to see my thread in bold, Glad I can help and I must admit you took more care and time than I did.

that's pretty cool. considering a garage door opener's battery lasts like 4-5yrs, that should be fine! :tup: