It's pretty common in Europe to have 10,000km (10 Mm?) between oil changes. I think perhaps they are trying to keep up with the Jones's.
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05-15-2009, 09:30 AM | #47 (permalink) |
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Most likely, with the recommended oils, both values are within reason, and the difference comes down to differing green politics in the two regions. Europe is probably more sensitive from a price per quart and 'save the resources' standpoint and demands longer recommended change intervals as a result.
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05-15-2009, 02:31 PM | #48 (permalink) |
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ya sorry i missed the manuals part of the forum, i'm new here so forgive me i'll look next time. thats weird nissan would do that, they are the same cars and probably gonna be driven the same way there would be no reason to change the oil change intervals other than wstar's and ChrisSlicks' explanations
Last edited by Lyndo; 05-15-2009 at 02:34 PM. |
05-15-2009, 04:59 PM | #49 (permalink) | |
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05-19-2009, 07:02 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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I need a quick answer. please. I am in the middle of an oil change, in has gone 6 quarts of oil, but it looks like there is room for another 4 or so, the dipstick says half way. Am I missing something here?/ please advise, before autozone closes.
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05-19-2009, 07:11 PM | #52 (permalink) |
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STOP! Even with a new oil filter the capacity is only 5 1/8 quarts. Overfilling an engine can be harmful! You should have run the engine BEFORE checking the dipstick.
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05-19-2009, 07:12 PM | #53 (permalink) |
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oh snap, so now I need to remove some oil, cool. I knew something had to go wrong or I just would not be happy.
thanks dude.
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05-19-2009, 07:15 PM | #54 (permalink) |
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Yes. Do you have an Oil Evacuator (example)?
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05-19-2009, 08:12 PM | #57 (permalink) |
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First off Thank you Socal 370.
So I have never changed the oil on one of my cars, never had the need to. But I decided to do it in this, which almost ended in me breaking something. I took pics, so if there are other out there like me, who have never done this, hopefully it can help them. First off, READ INSTRUCTIONS!!! if it says 5 1/8 quarts do that, not 6. so some tools: some rhino ramps, these things suck. they slipped in my garage and had to do everything outside. Mind you it was a nice rainy day. Oil and filter, and crush washer. I got the washer from nissan, as no other store seemed to carry it. So first step take of the bottom plate. Its a pain but nothing to worry about. The three pins in the center pull out, so with your nail just pull them out, and you can remove the plate. Pic of the clip. (My camera sucks) Once this is done, you need to drain the oil. You can see the oil filter and the drain pan screw right next to it. The oil filter was welded on, and the tool I bought was not meant for it, so I ended up using the screwdriver through the filter trick. (the engine was hot, so that did not help) The cap of the engine to pour the oil can be seen here: remove the old crush washer with a knife and put the new one on the screw, make sure to clean it off then just put the filter back on, and the screw back in, make sure its all tight, and begin to pour the oil. once done run engine and make sure its all good, and bolt the bottom plate back on, remember to put he three pins back. then just set your computer to warn you when your next change will be required: so yeah there it is. Not very painful, and if you do your homework first it will be painless. Hope this helps someone here.
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05-19-2009, 08:21 PM | #58 (permalink) |
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looks good /\
Here's my version: DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside Kinda weird how both of us did the change on same day... Btw, it was bright and sunny today here in the jersey!
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05-19-2009, 08:46 PM | #60 (permalink) |
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Are you asking me or Chupacabra? My synthetic IS ester based but I don't see any problem running other oils( like Royal Purple, Amsoil etc) . I felt a lot quieter idling with my engine but it can simply be my imagination.
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