Awesome! Have it on my to do list.

For the record and future reference these three bolts, if I remember correctly, screw into the aluminum knuckle spindle. Since they don't have a specified torque value the standard applies. For specifics see pg 19 of section GI in the service manual.

Check the bolt markings to determine the grade and the appropriate torque value per the chart. Remember - the aluminum threads in the knuckle will strip out before the bolt will. If you're uncertain I suggest finding a middle/lower value and using a thread locker.

Thanks for your write up. Just installed my Swifts, SPC camber/toe kit, and H&R 15mm spacers. Here are a few thoughts:

-The front lower strut bolt has a 19mm nut, not 17mm. The other side (front of the car) can be held with a 21mm wrench to stop it from spinning.

-I didn't have to remove the lower strut mount plate bolts to get the front strut out. Removing the upper steering knuckle bolt was enough for everything to drop down and out of the way for easy strut removal. The upper link even springs up out of the way when this bolt is removed.

-I couldn't figure out how to undo the bolt on the end of the front strut while holding the piston rod tip stationary since the only place to hold it stationary is right on the end where you need to put a wrench. I ended up taking them up to a shop for a quick spring swap.

-The upper rubber part on the back springs can be spun in place. I spun it to align with the edge of the new Swift spring. I think this will reduce settle time. I seem to already have the drop specified by Swift.

-I'm a bit of a newb, but nobody mentioned this in the write ups I've seen. Make sure you transfer over the rubber pieces on the front springs over to the new ones. They slide on around the bottom of the spring to help stop squeaking against the metal of the strut since there isn't a big rubber piece on that side.

Thanks for the write up as well, made the job a breeze. I have been lurking on this forum for about two years now, decided to finally post.

This past week while I was getting my stock rays powder coated and I was already up on jack stands I decided to go ahead with the Swift swap.

Some words of advice fwiw:
-Borrow someones compressor (as large as possible) and impact wrench. I have a 30gal tank and 800ft lb impact and it still took about four tanks of air each to compress and de-compress each spring. I cant imagine doing this job without air tools. The passenger side lower strut bolt would have been almost impossible to remove with just hand tools. Possible, but not fun.
-If you don't know anyone with air tools just go buy them from a big box store, use them, then return them...Unethical, but an option.

I did the entire job over two days, maybe 1.5 hours the first day to get the struts and back springs off the car. Then 5 hours the second day to compress and swap the springs and then install back on the car. The second day would have probably gone faster had I not been waiting on air pressure for so long.

I threw in a pic of pre-20mm spacers and springs for reference.

Thanks again for the DIY! This is one of the most informative forums I've ever read.

So a couple days ago I saw a small puddle of oil under the driver' side of my car. I cleaned it up and waited another day. The next day there was only a tiny spot of oil. I've narrowed it down to the left strut as there's oil residue on the strut and transverse link. The seal must be broken.

Since I removed & installed the strut myself and took them to Nissan to have the springs swapped, I'm assuming Nissan is going to say I messed with it and it's not their fault. Really pissed right now. Especially since I only took it to them because I wanted it done right.

Update #1: Well, I managed to get them to warranty the shock. So, it looks like I'll get this corrected for free, which I did not expect. I'm consistently impressed with how well this dealership treats me.

Update #2: Nissan replaced my driver's side strut. I told them when I took it in that they should inspect the other side. Sure enough, it was leaking as well. So they're fixing that now for free. I just really hope this is the end of it.

Im going to install the Stillen Lowering Springs, 1.5" Front and 1" Rear approx. Wondering now if I wanted to install 20" rims do you think I will have enough clearance in the wheel wells or will I have to stick to 19"?

Thanks for the howto. Certainly helped. A made a couple notes along the way for others if interested.

Loosening the top nut off the "hat" for the front strut. I didn't like the idea of using vice grips on the strut shaft. I used a "crow foot" type open end socket, the kind that reaches around like a pipe wrench. That allowed the top to stay accessible for an 8mm open end wrench to hold the shaft, and a small fat bar wedged between the top 3 bolts on the strut top plate to keep it from twisting. Once the springs were compressed enough to freely move, it wasn't that difficult to break the nut free without gouging the surface of the strut shaft.

Also, when holding the strut in the vice, i would use the vice on the very bottom of the strut where the weld is, you don't want to crush the strut tube where the piston pushes through.

I have air tools, the nut for the bottom of the front strut still wouldn't budge, no issues using a 6 point socket and the breaker bar off my floor jack though.

I used a hand spring compressor, the cheap kind that bolts on and you have to crank down the nuts with an open end wrench. this made the front take about 3 hours per side. The back I did both sides in just over an hour.

Swift springs and Kics spacers (20mm, 25mm) from Kamispeed. Turned out great and was really surprised how good the ride is, not harsh at all, but definitely more planted and a huge improvement in handling..

pic was before a test ride, I'm sure it will settle a bit more..

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r...pscivpwf4w.jpg

All your pics have some photobucket messages, couldn't even see anything...

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I am experiencing this exact problem