DIY - Brake Cooling Ducts

FL 4Motion · 10-19-2011, 08:34 PM

the mystery deepens. Well, I hope it's correct. If so, I might just have to buy the new oem parts and swap them to my car.

b1adesofcha0s · 10-19-2011, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FL 4Motion

the mystery deepens. Well, I hope it's correct. If so, I might just have to buy the new oem parts and swap them to my car.

All we can do is wait and see.....

Dustin@Z1 · 10-19-2011, 10:10 PM

Most likely the 2012's oil cooler is going to be what is already been installed on the Middle Eastern and Austrailian spec 370Z's. It just makes sense that Nissan would expand a product, that they already produce for two markets, to the rest of the world. It is extremely unlikely that Nissan would develop a true air to oil oil cooler setup like what is offered by us, GTM, Stillen and Nissan Motorsports.

This oil to water style oil cooler is what was installed from the factory on the 350Z and G35 VQ35DE engines. I have been shocked from day 1 as to why Nissan did not keep that style of oil cooler on the Vq35HR and VQ37VHR engines.

These parts are already available for the most part, just no in the US.

ResIpsa · 10-25-2011, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1

In reality you do want the brake duct aimed at the center of the disc, not a single disc face. You concerns are correct here.

The idea of a brake duct is so that the air is channeled into the middle of the disc, scooped up by the internal vane design (between the disc faces), passed between the disc faces and out around the perimeter of the disc. As the air passes between the disc faces it extracts heat evenly from both faces. If you cool the brake pads unevenly, it can cause the brake pads to be less effective.

In addition, having the duct aimed properly will also help keep the wheel bearings cool and hopefully prolong their service life.

Something to also pay attenion to is the rotation direction of your rotors. You want it so that it scoops air from the inside and expells it outward. If you have this backwards it will prevent the ducts from doing their job as effectively. Stock 370Z rotors are not directional, but this is something to pay attenion to if you ever upgrade to a BBK or aftermarket set of rotors with directional vanes.

The big problem I had ducting the air to the center of the rotor is the design of our front suspension. Our cars have a massive aluminum spindle taking up all the space in the center of the rotor.

My design does route some air at the face of the rotor but the majority of the duct is inside the rotor.

And yes, my rotors are backward. However, they are not directional. I noticed this after I had already installed everything and was just too lazy to take everything apart again.

ResIpsa · 10-25-2011, 08:38 AM

A couple of weeks after installing my new ducts I noticed that my ABS warning lot was coming on intermittently. After taking the wheels off I discovered what was going on.

The metal zip tie I used to secure the brake hose to the duct on the rotor was rubbing against the ABS line. It was starting to slowly cut through the line. Luckily, I noticed this before actually cutting through the insulation.

Although this picture is not the best angle, you can see how the line runs next the duct. I had to drill out the rivets on the passenger side duct (very easy to do) and move the duct about ½ inch away from the ABS sensor. It should be pretty obvious when you do the install. Just make sure that no part of the brake hose or clamp touches the ABS line or sensor.

Also, it would be a good time to remove the ABS sensor (10mm socket) and clean it off. Mine was covered in brake dust.

Dustin@Z1 · 10-26-2011, 12:50 PM

The orientation of the slots on the face does not matter. You should be fine here.

What are you using to secure the ducting to the chassis???

On my Z32 Slicktop I used various size Worm Clamps and drilled a hole in them. I used the hole to attach the clamps to the chassis/suspension as needed. I then tightened down the worm clamps to secure the duct piping.

ResIpsa · 10-26-2011, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustin@Z1

The orientation of the slots on the face does not matter. You should be fine here.

What are you using to secure the ducting to the chassis???

On my Z32 Slicktop I used various size Worm Clamps and drilled a hole in them. I used the hole to attach the clamps to the chassis/suspension as needed. I then tightened down the worm clamps to secure the duct piping.

Just a zip tie around the lower section of the shock absorber. So far there have been no issues. But I will monitor the brake ducting for any potential issues.

This is why I like to daily drive my mods for a couple thousand miles before I take them to the track. Fingers crossed...

KevinB · 10-29-2011, 06:30 PM

reslpsa: any updates on your ducts? Happy with it so far?

ResIpsa · 10-30-2011, 10:44 AM

The ABS warning light problem has been 100% fixed. Everything else seems to be fine.

RoshDawg · 04-03-2012, 02:06 PM

Sorry for the age old bump,
But do you guys think it's possible to do similar type of ducting but instead of routing air from the fangs, route air from the undertray?

Edit: maybe with something like this: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...46/Naca_Ducts2

axio · 04-03-2012, 02:19 PM

I was wondering the same as well as I don't think there is enough space for me to do this with all the plumbing from the GTM Stg2 SC intercooler and oil cooler.

RoshDawg · 04-03-2012, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axio

I was wondering the same as well as I don't think there is enough space for me to do this with all the plumbing from the GTM Stg2 SC intercooler and oil cooler.

If routing air from the undertray, a lot less tubing needs to be used it just goes from the control arm area to the brakes, effectively bypassing the inter cooler and oil cooler locations.

Check out: Brake Cooling Options

And pay close attention to the 'Scoop mounted to control arm'. You can route a hose to under the control arm, and on track days when you do not have to worry about clearance, you can simply attach the huge scoop (to make up for the low pressure area) to the pre-installed hoses.

scruffydog · 05-29-2012, 11:03 AM

Great write up, I am in the middle of trying install a brake duct kit for my 370z as I'm gonna track it at Laguna Seca next month. Where did you get the Aluminum Flange at? Most of the ones I found has 2 rivot flanges that extends out of the circular shape. Link

I don't know if the brake dust shield will have enough room for this particular shape.

ResIpsa · 05-29-2012, 11:42 AM

Aircraft spruce aviation supply company.

scruffydog · 06-07-2012, 06:41 PM

I'm in the process of doing the same thing...
DIY - Brake Cooling Duct Installation

My DIY is more of just plain pictures but I'll update you guys when I'm done. I decided to go with 3" Diameter...a little overkill, in fact now i'm a little worried because more cool air will get exposed to the surface than the inner hub of the rotor. Oh well...maybe I'll design something else like a tray funnel style one day.

Also, have you taken any temperature? Stillen's website (essentially the exact same thing) claims 25% drop in temp, but I noticed they put a Stoptech brake setup. Who knows if that claim is really true.

10-25-2011, 08:38 AM	#35 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 338	very important note A couple of weeks after installing my new ducts I noticed that my ABS warning lot was coming on intermittently. After taking the wheels off I discovered what was going on. The metal zip tie I used to secure the brake hose to the duct on the rotor was rubbing against the ABS line. It was starting to slowly cut through the line. Luckily, I noticed this before actually cutting through the insulation. Although this picture is not the best angle, you can see how the line runs next the duct. I had to drill out the rivets on the passenger side duct (very easy to do) and move the duct about ½ inch away from the ABS sensor. It should be pretty obvious when you do the install. Just make sure that no part of the brake hose or clamp touches the ABS line or sensor. Also, it would be a good time to remove the ABS sensor (10mm socket) and clean it off. Mine was covered in brake dust. __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

10-29-2011, 06:30 PM	#38 (permalink)
KevinB Base Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Louisiana Age: 53 Posts: 75 Drives: 09 370z blk m6 Rep Power: 14	reslpsa: any updates on your ducts? Happy with it so far? __________________ 09 6MT MB: Int/Ext LEDs, Stillen G3 + FI test pipes + FI cat back + Stillen sways + Clutch Helper Spring

10-30-2011, 10:44 AM	#39 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 338	The ABS warning light problem has been 100% fixed. Everything else seems to be fine. __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

04-03-2012, 02:06 PM	#40 (permalink)
RoshDawg Track Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: NM / CA Posts: 981 Drives: '13 911 C2S Rep Power: 15	Sorry for the age old bump, But do you guys think it's possible to do similar type of ducting but instead of routing air from the fangs, route air from the undertray? Edit: maybe with something like this: http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...46/Naca_Ducts2 __________________ \| EVO X MR \| '11 WRX STI \| 370Z SPRT \| 911 (991) C2S \| Last edited by RoshDawg; 04-03-2012 at 02:08 PM.

04-03-2012, 02:19 PM	#41 (permalink)
axio Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 271 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 16	I was wondering the same as well as I don't think there is enough space for me to do this with all the plumbing from the GTM Stg2 SC intercooler and oil cooler. __________________ GTM Stg II SC w/ Aquamist methanol injection, GTM oil cooler, Berk HFC, Stillen CBE, BC ER coilovers, Hotchkis sways, TWM short shifter, Clutch spring mod, CarboTech XP8s

10-19-2011, 08:34 PM	#31 (permalink)
FL 4Motion A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: FL Posts: 4,776 Drives: Baby Shark Rep Power: 701615	the mystery deepens. Well, I hope it's correct. If so, I might just have to buy the new oem parts and swap them to my car.

10-19-2011, 10:10 PM	#33 (permalink)
Dustin@Z1 The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NLA Posts: 1,313 Drives: NLA Rep Power: 18	Most likely the 2012's oil cooler is going to be what is already been installed on the Middle Eastern and Austrailian spec 370Z's. It just makes sense that Nissan would expand a product, that they already produce for two markets, to the rest of the world. It is extremely unlikely that Nissan would develop a true air to oil oil cooler setup like what is offered by us, GTM, Stillen and Nissan Motorsports. This oil to water style oil cooler is what was installed from the factory on the 350Z and G35 VQ35DE engines. I have been shocked from day 1 as to why Nissan did not keep that style of oil cooler on the Vq35HR and VQ37VHR engines. These parts are already available for the most part, just no in the US.

10-26-2011, 12:50 PM	#36 (permalink)
Dustin@Z1 The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NLA Posts: 1,313 Drives: NLA Rep Power: 18	The orientation of the slots on the face does not matter. You should be fine here. What are you using to secure the ducting to the chassis??? On my Z32 Slicktop I used various size Worm Clamps and drilled a hole in them. I used the hole to attach the clamps to the chassis/suspension as needed. I then tightened down the worm clamps to secure the duct piping.

05-29-2012, 11:03 AM	#43 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 717	Great write up, I am in the middle of trying install a brake duct kit for my 370z as I'm gonna track it at Laguna Seca next month. Where did you get the Aluminum Flange at? Most of the ones I found has 2 rivot flanges that extends out of the circular shape. Link I don't know if the brake dust shield will have enough room for this particular shape.

05-29-2012, 11:42 AM	#44 (permalink)
ResIpsa Track Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Virginia Posts: 564 Drives: 09 RACING HEN Rep Power: 338	Aircraft spruce aviation supply company. __________________ The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

06-07-2012, 06:41 PM	#45 (permalink)
scruffydog A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,113 Drives: with his eyes close Rep Power: 717	I'm in the process of doing the same thing... DIY - Brake Cooling Duct Installation My DIY is more of just plain pictures but I'll update you guys when I'm done. I decided to go with 3" Diameter...a little overkill, in fact now i'm a little worried because more cool air will get exposed to the surface than the inner hub of the rotor. Oh well...maybe I'll design something else like a tray funnel style one day. Also, have you taken any temperature? Stillen's website (essentially the exact same thing) claims 25% drop in temp, but I noticed they put a Stoptech brake setup. Who knows if that claim is really true.

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