DIY: Blinder installation and radar detector hardwire

Crash · 02-10-2009, 07:36 AM

There's a thread about laser jammers. The blinder does a good job at stopping most lasers, but there are 2 others that are actually better than the blinder. One that stops them all for sure. The blinder gets them, but sometimes falls short at certain ranges.

semtex · 02-10-2009, 08:23 AM

A thread on this forum somewhere?

Crash · 02-10-2009, 10:42 AM

Yeah. Let me find it... I can't recall where it was or what it was called.

Crash · 02-10-2009, 10:45 AM

Here Ye:

Radar Detector

Laser Interceptor is the one that seems to be the best. I looked at the results for the blinder-x and compared it to the test videos I saw on Youtube. They seem to be correct. So I'd assume that the other results on the list are correct as well.

semtex · 02-10-2009, 10:52 AM

Ouch on the prices.

Front only: $700 for the base model and $1400 for the high-powered one.
Front and rear: $1225 for base model and $2450 for high-powered.

http://www.laser-interceptorusa.com/901.html

Crash · 02-10-2009, 11:07 AM

You're right. That's pricey!

LiquidZ · 02-20-2009, 11:35 AM

What happens when the laser is jammed from the perspective of the cop? Does it give him a wacky speed or does no reading appear on his gun?

semtex · 02-20-2009, 11:48 AM

He gets no reading.

Crash · 02-20-2009, 03:15 PM

^^^ Also, sometimes it will give an "error" message. But that's normal as well. It's common for a cop to have to try 2 or even 3 times to get a reading on a car.

Supergoji · 02-21-2009, 03:41 AM

priceyyyy but seriously thats about a years tickets for me lol

wstar · 03-05-2009, 05:04 PM

I'm in the midst of hardwiring my V1 right now. I noticed in the second pic of your last series there (the straight-on view of the mirror+V1) it looks like you've run the V1's wire up to the headliner separate from the mirror. I've found that the little plastic tunnel that hides the mirror's wire will hide the V1 wire as well. Slide the outer sheath down, then snap the whole tunnel off (it has little plastic snap-attachments at the base, just pull it straight up while keeping it against the glass) - and put both wires inside.

Anyways, I have mine through the headliner so far, and I'm looking at the A-pillar. I'm kinda scared to yank on the A-pillar cover. Does it just pop off, or does something else need to be undone first?

ETA: Gave up on yanking on the A-pillar cover for now, since it seems some other things need to be pulled off first. I stuffed the flat V1 wire down into the edge of the A-pillar cover along the windshield glass, and then just ran it along the outside in the grove from the end of that seam down around to where the air duct for the door is. The air duct cover for the door, I was able to snap out and run the wire through the edges of that and into the passenger-side under-dash area. So what's exposed and/or ugly now is a section of wire coming from the top of edge of that duct peice (the one that connects to the door, you can only see it with the door open) running up the seams to the deep corner of the windshield there where the wire goes back under the A-frame cover again.

Any suggestions/solutions for this?

par4bmw · 03-05-2009, 06:47 PM

With the Homelink mirror, it seems a lot easier just to use invisicord. It was $15 and took less then 15 minutes to install. Is there a downside to using invisicord over hardwiring?

semtex · 03-06-2009, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

I'm in the midst of hardwiring my V1 right now. I noticed in the second pic of your last series there (the straight-on view of the mirror+V1) it looks like you've run the V1's wire up to the headliner separate from the mirror. I've found that the little plastic tunnel that hides the mirror's wire will hide the V1 wire as well. Slide the outer sheath down, then snap the whole tunnel off (it has little plastic snap-attachments at the base, just pull it straight up while keeping it against the glass) - and put both wires inside.

Anyways, I have mine through the headliner so far, and I'm looking at the A-pillar. I'm kinda scared to yank on the A-pillar cover. Does it just pop off, or does something else need to be undone first?

ETA: Gave up on yanking on the A-pillar cover for now, since it seems some other things need to be pulled off first. I stuffed the flat V1 wire down into the edge of the A-pillar cover along the windshield glass, and then just ran it along the outside in the grove from the end of that seam down around to where the air duct for the door is. The air duct cover for the door, I was able to snap out and run the wire through the edges of that and into the passenger-side under-dash area. So what's exposed and/or ugly now is a section of wire coming from the top of edge of that duct peice (the one that connects to the door, you can only see it with the door open) running up the seams to the deep corner of the windshield there where the wire goes back under the A-frame cover again.

Any suggestions/solutions for this?

For the A-pillar, take a flat screwdriver and use it to gently pry the top of the cover. It's a little scary at first, but with a little pressure it pops right off. Also, there's no need to pop the cover right off. Just pull it back enough to get the wire behind it. Be careful not to obstruct the airbag that's rolled up in there with the wire. The cover just snaps back in.

wstar · 03-17-2009, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by semtex

For the A-pillar, take a flat screwdriver and use it to gently pry the top of the cover. It's a little scary at first, but with a little pressure it pops right off. Also, there's no need to pop the cover right off. Just pull it back enough to get the wire behind it. Be careful not to obstruct the airbag that's rolled up in there with the wire. The cover just snaps back in.

Forgot to reply earlier, but I did get this to work, thanks. Once you pop the A-pillar loose as noted above, it's pretty easy to drop the wire through and have it come out under the passenger-side dash (I used a bit of stiff wire taped to the cord to push it through initially).

juan05 · 05-16-2009, 09:56 PM

hey have u got a ticket since you intalled it? and how much did the radar jammer cost?

02-10-2009, 07:36 AM	#16 (permalink)
Crash A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,853 Drives: 02 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 590	There's a thread about laser jammers. The blinder does a good job at stopping most lasers, but there are 2 others that are actually better than the blinder. One that stops them all for sure. The blinder gets them, but sometimes falls short at certain ranges. __________________ 2002 Corvette Z06 - Totaled 2003 Corvette Z06 50th Anniversary

02-10-2009, 08:23 AM	#17 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 32	A thread on this forum somewhere? __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

02-10-2009, 10:42 AM	#18 (permalink)
Crash A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,853 Drives: 02 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 590	Yeah. Let me find it... I can't recall where it was or what it was called. __________________ 2002 Corvette Z06 - Totaled 2003 Corvette Z06 50th Anniversary

02-10-2009, 10:45 AM	#19 (permalink)
Crash A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,853 Drives: 02 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 590	Here Ye: Radar Detector Laser Interceptor is the one that seems to be the best. I looked at the results for the blinder-x and compared it to the test videos I saw on Youtube. They seem to be correct. So I'd assume that the other results on the list are correct as well. __________________ 2002 Corvette Z06 - Totaled 2003 Corvette Z06 50th Anniversary

02-10-2009, 10:52 AM	#20 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 32	Ouch on the prices. Front only: $700 for the base model and $1400 for the high-powered one. Front and rear: $1225 for base model and $2450 for high-powered. http://www.laser-interceptorusa.com/901.html __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

02-10-2009, 11:07 AM	#21 (permalink)
Crash A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,853 Drives: 02 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 590	You're right. That's pricey! __________________ 2002 Corvette Z06 - Totaled 2003 Corvette Z06 50th Anniversary

02-20-2009, 11:35 AM	#22 (permalink)
LiquidZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 1,940 Drives: Mag. Black 2009 370Z Rep Power: 705	What happens when the laser is jammed from the perspective of the cop? Does it give him a wacky speed or does no reading appear on his gun?

02-20-2009, 11:48 AM	#23 (permalink)
semtex A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Behind enemy lines Age: 54 Posts: 5,995 Drives: People to drink Rep Power: 32	He gets no reading. __________________ "There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) \| 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

02-20-2009, 03:15 PM	#24 (permalink)
Crash A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,853 Drives: 02 Corvette Z06 Rep Power: 590	^^^ Also, sometimes it will give an "error" message. But that's normal as well. It's common for a cop to have to try 2 or even 3 times to get a reading on a car. __________________ 2002 Corvette Z06 - Totaled 2003 Corvette Z06 50th Anniversary

02-21-2009, 03:41 AM	#25 (permalink)
Supergoji Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Westchester NY Age: 36 Posts: 311 Drives: Z32tt / Supra tt Rep Power: 257	priceyyyy but seriously thats about a years tickets for me lol

03-05-2009, 05:04 PM	#26 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I'm in the midst of hardwiring my V1 right now. I noticed in the second pic of your last series there (the straight-on view of the mirror+V1) it looks like you've run the V1's wire up to the headliner separate from the mirror. I've found that the little plastic tunnel that hides the mirror's wire will hide the V1 wire as well. Slide the outer sheath down, then snap the whole tunnel off (it has little plastic snap-attachments at the base, just pull it straight up while keeping it against the glass) - and put both wires inside. Anyways, I have mine through the headliner so far, and I'm looking at the A-pillar. I'm kinda scared to yank on the A-pillar cover. Does it just pop off, or does something else need to be undone first? ETA: Gave up on yanking on the A-pillar cover for now, since it seems some other things need to be pulled off first. I stuffed the flat V1 wire down into the edge of the A-pillar cover along the windshield glass, and then just ran it along the outside in the grove from the end of that seam down around to where the air duct for the door is. The air duct cover for the door, I was able to snap out and run the wire through the edges of that and into the passenger-side under-dash area. So what's exposed and/or ugly now is a section of wire coming from the top of edge of that duct peice (the one that connects to the door, you can only see it with the door open) running up the seams to the deep corner of the windshield there where the wire goes back under the A-frame cover again. Any suggestions/solutions for this? Last edited by wstar; 03-05-2009 at 05:40 PM.

03-05-2009, 06:47 PM	#27 (permalink)
par4bmw Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Scottsdale, AZ Posts: 267 Drives: 09 370 M6 Touring/Sp Rep Power: 445	With the Homelink mirror, it seems a lot easier just to use invisicord. It was $15 and took less then 15 minutes to install. Is there a downside to using invisicord over hardwiring? __________________ I tellya what, its got this s-mode thing down here...it moveees so incredibly... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7JsL...e=channel_page Last edited by par4bmw; 03-05-2009 at 08:17 PM.

05-16-2009, 09:56 PM	#30 (permalink)
juan05 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: west palm beach Posts: 372 Drives: nismo 370z black. Rep Power: 16	hey have u got a ticket since you intalled it? and how much did the radar jammer cost?

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