DIY: ** Rear 20mm stud replacement spacers

wheee! · 10-30-2010, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thispecialk

Hey I'm looking at ichiba version 2 spacers anyone have problems with them. So far I heard from my friend it's no good

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Therefore, stud replacement is always better IMO. Less chance of nuts coming loose, etc. The stud replacement is easy and I believe the more solid spacer is stronger than the V2 spacer with twice the drilled holes. Your wheels are now mounted to the car via the spacer, not the hub... think about that!

Paul_S · 11-07-2010, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee!

Do you mean to disassemble the rotor from the emergency brake shoes or to install the studs? I had to remove the assembly to insert the studs on mine...? Did I miss something! lol

I know that most people should be able to remove the rotor without backing off the emergency brake assembly, but some will have to loosen it to remove the rotor...

I fitted mine today (+1 rep for this guide)

I didn't need to take the handbrake assembly off to get new studs for my 15mm spacers in. See below (you need to turn the hub as you line up the stud but it's simple to do):

I hope that helps

wheee! · 11-17-2010, 02:30 PM

Looks good! I don't know if the studs are longer on the rear 20mm spacers or not, but I found that removing the brake assembly was quick and painless anyways....

Nice to see Z's in the UK! My family is from Derbyshire....

LMBmikeZ · 01-01-2011, 07:06 PM

so I guess in the end everyone (majority anyway) agree that the H&R DRS are the best bet, it makes sense to me why not to go with the DRM spacers............

rtrono · 01-01-2011, 07:56 PM

H&R DRS 15/20 done today. No problems at all. I haven't had a car I cared to work on in ages. I love this thing.

djpathfinder · 01-01-2011, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LMBmikeZ

so I guess in the end everyone (majority anyway) agree that the H&R DRS are the best bet, it makes sense to me why not to go with the DRM spacers............

Yup, less to worry about with the DRS (replacement studs). In fact on our cars we can't use the DRM for the fronts.

LinPark · 01-02-2011, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtrono

H&R DRS 15/20 done today. No problems at all. I haven't had a car I cared to work on in ages. I love this thing.

Man, I wish you'd stop by my house then - I'm still stuck trying to get the first rotor off the front passenger side. I think the assembly folks mistakenly used Lock-Tite instead of Anti-Seize on just about every single part of my car.

rtrono · 01-02-2011, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinPark

Man, I wish you'd stop by my house then - I'm still stuck trying to get the first rotor off the front passenger side. I think the assembly folks mistakenly used Lock-Tite instead of Anti-Seize on just about every single part of my car.

I had to give mine a pretty good whack to break it loose but no problem.

LinPark · 01-02-2011, 02:49 PM

Well, I gave up on the front one until the Aerokroil arrives next week - moved to the rear set and can't manage to get the two 19mm bolts holding the brake in place to loosen up - not only did they use Lock-Tite, but I think the Incredible Hulk was doing a seminar on the assembly line that day. Sheesh! I might be getting on the phone tomorrow to get quotes on having this done!

rtrono · 01-02-2011, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinPark

Well, I gave up on the front one until the Aerokroil arrives next week - moved to the rear set and can't manage to get the two 19mm bolts holding the brake in place to loosen up - not only did they use Lock-Tite, but I think the Incredible Hulk was doing a seminar on the assembly line that day. Sheesh! I might be getting on the phone tomorrow to get quotes on having this done!

I had to give all the bolts a pretty good whack too. It will all come loose given enough force. Just be careful. I made very sure the car was lifted up real solid and climbed into the wheel well and just beat on it a little. Hold the wrench tight so it doesnt get away and damage anything.
You can do it.

ChrisSlicks · 01-02-2011, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinPark

Well, I gave up on the front one until the Aerokroil arrives next week - moved to the rear set and can't manage to get the two 19mm bolts holding the brake in place to loosen up - not only did they use Lock-Tite, but I think the Incredible Hulk was doing a seminar on the assembly line that day. Sheesh! I might be getting on the phone tomorrow to get quotes on having this done!

You're going to have to muscle it. Didn't have too much trouble with a 6-pt 1/2" socket and 18" ratchet. Definitely had to lean on it a little.

If it is anything like my car half the bolts on the drivers side were either cross-threaded or over torqued where as the passenger side was fine.

LinPark · 01-02-2011, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

You're going to have to muscle it. Didn't have too much trouble with a 6-pt 1/2" socket and 18" ratchet. Definitely had to lean on it a little.

If it is anything like my car half the bolts on the drivers side were either cross-threaded or over torqued where as the passenger side was fine.

Bolts weren't a problem in the front because I could turn the rotors - have a nice 1/2" socket breaker bar (like 18") so plenty of leverage there - I can't seem to fit anything into the rear wheel well that gives me enough leverage not to mention one of the 19mm bolts in the rear has some cross arm blocking it so I can't really use a socket - stuck with a 19mm flare nut wrench for that one. I figured getting the rear ones off would be easy but torquing them back to 98 ft/lbs in that little space was going to be the challenge - boy was I wrong.

ChrisSlicks · 01-02-2011, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LinPark

Bolts weren't a problem in the front because I could turn the rotors - have a nice 1/2" socket breaker bar (like 18") so plenty of leverage there - I can't seem to fit anything into the rear wheel well that gives me enough leverage not to mention one of the 19mm bolts in the rear has some cross arm blocking it so I can't really use a socket - stuck with a 19mm flare nut wrench for that one. I figured getting the rear ones off would be easy but torquing them back to 98 ft/lbs in that little space was going to be the challenge - boy was I wrong.

Hmm, think maybe I used a long 19mm box wrench on that one.

wheee! · 01-06-2011, 02:26 PM

Wow.... I really had no issues doing mine. The car was really quite new though and had only 700kms on it... that might have helped. Box wrenches are best for the rear and give them a slight tap with a mallet if you need to get them moving.

LinPark · 01-06-2011, 09:42 PM

Ok, progress is being made - had some spare time this evening and was able to get the front passenger side completely done. I'll need something like a 19mm XL GearWrench for the rears because the only reason I can get the front brake bolts loose is that I can turn the wheel and get plenty of leverage on it. By the time I get this done the exhaust should be here!

11-17-2010, 02:30 PM	#63 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 57 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	Looks good! I don't know if the studs are longer on the rear 20mm spacers or not, but I found that removing the brake assembly was quick and painless anyways.... Nice to see Z's in the UK! My family is from Derbyshire.... __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal

01-06-2011, 02:26 PM	#74 (permalink)
wheee! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mod Capital of Canada Age: 57 Posts: 7,354 Drives: cars. lots of cars. Rep Power: 40182	Wow.... I really had no issues doing mine. The car was really quite new though and had only 700kms on it... that might have helped. Box wrenches are best for the rear and give them a slight tap with a mallet if you need to get them moving. __________________ H&R / Stillen / Berk / HKS / Swift / Michelin / UpRev / SPC / Amuse Rep / Seibon / Fringe XVO / TWM / more... My Journal

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01-01-2011, 07:06 PM	#64 (permalink)
LMBmikeZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 12,237 Drives: 40th Rep Power: 10350	so I guess in the end everyone (majority anyway) agree that the H&R DRS are the best bet, it makes sense to me why not to go with the DRM spacers............

01-01-2011, 07:56 PM	#65 (permalink)
rtrono Base Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Camarillo, Ca Posts: 70 Drives: 2010 370Z 40th Rep Power: 15	H&R DRS 15/20 done today. No problems at all. I haven't had a car I cared to work on in ages. I love this thing.

01-02-2011, 02:49 PM	#69 (permalink)
LinPark A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 1,077 Drives: '17 Camaro 2SS A8 Rep Power: 23	Well, I gave up on the front one until the Aerokroil arrives next week - moved to the rear set and can't manage to get the two 19mm bolts holding the brake in place to loosen up - not only did they use Lock-Tite, but I think the Incredible Hulk was doing a seminar on the assembly line that day. Sheesh! I might be getting on the phone tomorrow to get quotes on having this done!

01-06-2011, 09:42 PM	#75 (permalink)
LinPark A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 1,077 Drives: '17 Camaro 2SS A8 Rep Power: 23	Ok, progress is being made - had some spare time this evening and was able to get the front passenger side completely done. I'll need something like a 19mm XL GearWrench for the rears because the only reason I can get the front brake bolts loose is that I can turn the wheel and get plenty of leverage on it. By the time I get this done the exhaust should be here!