DIY: ** Rear 20mm stud replacement spacers

wheee!

Looks great! Glad the write up helped!

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NS370Z

I just ordered a set of four H&R's 20mm for front and rear from a Canadian distributor. Not cheap. I'm not going to do a whole lot of expensive modding. Funny thing is, I don't even have the car yet hahaha and I'm ordering goodies.

wheee!

Got mine for a good deal thru Josh at Stillen online here....

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LinPark

I could afford ALOT more goodies if I didn't have to pay for the car!

happytheman

Famous last words!

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--Brantly--

NuffZed

This write up is spot on but there are some small variations with a 2012. Nothing that will affect how you do this however. I read through this DIY guide a few times to understand what I was getting into. Luckily for me I have the great fortune to live in the same city as Wheee! who offered to help me with this.

We did 20mm rear and 15mm front in his garage last night on my roadster. By we I mean he did it and I assisted breathing a huge sigh of relief I could watch how its done properly. Could I do it now myself? Yes. But it was nice to watch someone with the know-how to go through it. A little over 2 hours to do the whole thing and the car looks great. Pics to follow in an album.

Thanks Wheee!

wheee!

My pleasure!
The differences I noticed were in the design of the dust shield on the front rotor and I believe the front brake line is routed a little different around the caliper than on my 2010.
Nothing to cause issue with the installation, but subtle changes in design.
Also installed his Gen II CAI from Stillen. Stillen CBE and HFC's to go!

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LinPark

You guys both need to move to Florida so all 3 of us can work on my car.

wheee!

Just come back to Alberta but bring your car this time!!

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bonfire

Just finished the 20mm on the rear. I didn't need to take the parking break assembly off either. I just angled the studs and slowly turned the hub until I could just slide the stud in place. Hopefully I seated them well enough. I'm pretty sure I got them all flush but I sometimes don't trust myself.

I noticed that the driver side was really dirty/greasy and the passenger side was not. Anyone know if I should be worried about the bearings or something of that nature??

I'll have to finish the 15mm front after work tomorrow. I will be sporting the fat rear end on the road tomorrow -

Wheee, thanks for the write up. It was a huge help.... also gave me a reason to buy an impact wrench, I would have been cussing myself had I not.

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| 2010 MB 7AT Touring, Sport | Stillen Gen III CAI | H&R DRS 15/20 | SunTek CXP 20% | Hankook V12 evo | F.I. 18" CBE |

happytheman

Can't imagine doing this job without an impact wrench.

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--Brantly--

wheee!

I have found that it is not necessary to remove the rear brake spring assembly, but that it does make it easier to do. The assembly is really nothing but a spring and a star-wheel expander.

That is strange.... I have never seen a dirty /greasy rear brake assembly on the cars I have serviced, but it may just have been a sloppy grease job from the factory. Just make sure the inner part of the rear brake drum is NOT contaminated with any grease and there is none on the pads either.


On a side note, a friend came over to have his spacers done a while ago and we encountered an issue with wheel studs. He had bought new wheel studs from a parts store and used spacers from a forum friend. The wheel studs he bought were too long and had a slightly longer 'collar' on them that interfered with the seating of the rotors. The spacers were not going to work without the correct size and length of stud, similar to what H&R ships in the package with the spacers.

Bottom line is: Use the correct stud sizes for these installs! Maybe someone that has an uninstalled set can measure the studs for us and post the correct lengths for people that are having to buy them separately.

Definitely an excellent idea to have the impact wrench! And you're welcome
for the write-up! I enjoyed doing it.

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LinPark

Wow, I feel really lucky then because I did all 4 tires without an impact wrench and nothing has gone flying off the car yet. LOL

scruffydog

Has anyone here aside from Rusty have done a rear ARP stud replacement? I believe they're 28 mm and this method doesn't work as the new stud cannot be inserted behind the hub assembly. Any help would be great. I'm having trouble removing the rear hub due to the 17mm socket is interfering with the CV Joint drum.

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Magnetic Black 2010 370z
Scruffydog's Journal

SurfDog

subd. thanks!

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09 6spd Berk CBE, JWT cams, ZSpeed CSC, Stillen (25 row oil, brake cooling, sways, gen3 CAI), Passport (9500ci), Quaife LSD, Z1 400 hp kit, ss lines, pads, rotors, clutch etc, Phunk's pan and fuel starve fix