How long do the berk HFC last before needing to be swapped out ?


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What kind of evil are these bolts. Out of the 6 one ended up snapping but all is good since it was in the cat side. I made up new swear words putting my pipes on. And now I might be doing long tube headers:)

Hi,

Yesterday I started to disassemble my catalysts to replace them by Kinetic HFC.
Unfortunately, after 3hours of labour I had to stop because I was not able to get access to one of the 3 bolts on the front of the catalyst :crying:

http://nsa33.casimages.com/img/2014/...2003248586.jpg

http://nsa34.casimages.com/img/2014/...3332597636.jpg

It was OK to remove the top screw from the engine bay using a long wrench, but for the other bolt I don't know from where and using which tool I can loss it because the access is too tight. Moreover bolts are completely rusty :mad:

Can you please try to explain how to proceed and add pictures of the right tool I should use please ? Thanks for your help !

Fock... We have all been there. When I did mine, one seemed to pop loose, but actually it had slipped and started to eat up the head of the bolt. The whole process took me about 6 hours, but was worth it.
So to get to your question. It's been about 6 month since I did the cats, but you should be able to get 2 on each side from the top. One is visible, but the other is still accessible, but you have just fish around from the top, go where it should be and drop it one the bolt. Another option is to have someone underneath guide it to the right spot. I think I might have used a swivel right after the socket on that one. By the way if it starts to strip the head, the "Irwin" bolt extractors are a must... It bites into the messed up head and saves the day (you did soak them with penetrating spray, yes?). You can also access the bolts from underneath, but you really have to be patient. At first glance you would think no way, but if you use a box wrench with a slight bend on the closed end you can fish it over the bolt and drop it on. Here are some pics of the tools and if all else fails you can take it to a muffler shop, but you can really do it yourself.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/muhejeby.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/use8apu7.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/u5urave2.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/y8uza8ut.jpg

Hi SkipinJupiter

Thanks for this clear explanation and for pictures ;)

Yes, I did use penetrating spray, but it is really rusty...)

I have also ordered a 14mm "Irwin" bolt extractors on Ebay. I hope to get it for Friday because I have booked a "self-garage" where I can use many tools and use a car lifter :rolleyes:

:hello:

One more question... Do I need to unscrew the Y-pipe as well (on the muffler side) to be able to remove the cats :confused:

Deciding...Hmmm
 

I'm leaning towards getting a set of these. I have a different set up presently and really like the sound and performance. I have stock headers & cats into an OEM Nismo H mid-pipe and ending with a Top Speed axle back. Can I assume it would get a bit louder? Would performance increase noticably?

Comments?

:tiphat:

Fock
I had no issue with the Y-pipes and the Berks matched right up on my 2010 370 sport. Good luck Friday.

Pfdaxe
The change I've noticed with the HFC are a nice raspy sound in the mid to upper RPM when you half get into the throttle. If you are real gentle with take off, you hardly notice. I guess my thought is it's just right.
The performance is a bit better (there are stats somewhere to verify the fact). The trade-off in my situation is a loss of about 1 or 2 MPG.

MPG Loss
 

:confused:You should be getting a MPG increase since the HFC's decrease back pressure. Wonder what could be causing your loss. Have you Dyno tuned after installing?

Duke:
No, haven't Dyno tuned. Just an unscientific resetting the average MGP setting a couple of times and watch it drop from 22.5 to 21.
I've seen others say improvement, some say loss. I would agree without remapping for the new HFC the computer might be dumping in more fuel with the improved air flow.
Have you Taken yours in for a Dyno tune? If so, what were the results.
I've read some horror stories of bad Dyno shops... As in getting a call saying Dude, your engine seized up for some reason.

I just ordered mine today and will be installing next week (time permitting). Question is, is this a two man job or one? I installed my stillen gen 3 intake system, but is this another beast or about the same?

DIY: Berk Technology HFC Install
 

Zae757
It's a beast for sure... On your back with tough angles and no space or 4 foot extensions to get to the top bolts from the engine compartment... But it's kind if a one person job unless you want someone to grab sockets rather than slide out from under the car.
If you have your buddy helping and he strips a nut (a real possibility), you might get pissed at him.... Plus it's crowded under there.
All you are unbolting are nuts, the studs are welded to the old cats, so no need to hold the other side. This is not true with the replacements as they are nut/bolt combinations. I did have to get the wife to hold a wrench topside while I got under the car to snug it up as they were both turning. It's all worth it because they sound great.

SkipinJupiter, did your check engine light come on?

It can be done alone. Buy a 14mm impact socket! You are more likely to snap the bolts than round them off. Believe me, after wrestling with the cats, snapping a bolt is a wonderful thing.

Zae757

No check engine light issues at all.