DIY coilover install

tjlazer

Do you really need to remove the three green bolts at all from the first pic to do this job? Seems it is not needed. I stripped one of those bolts.

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

azn370z

Yes you do need to remove the 3 bolts but they're not on very tight.

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2010 k23
H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts

djpathfinder

Yeah the 19 mm and 3 smaller bolts weren't too hard to loosen. Sorry, I have to ask to be thorough...you were torquing the nuts counterclockwise to loosen, right...and not the other way? As for the one with rounded head, go get yourself a damaged bolt removal socket or wrench (14 mm or whatever the size of that one is) at your local hardware store. Good luck.

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2012 GT-R Black Edition Jet Black
2010 370Z 40th Anniversary // SOLD

tjlazer

Yeah I was torquing the correct way trust me. I was using a 12 point socket, that was my mistake. The nuts are not stripped though. It's the one 14mm that I ended up stripping, and having a hard time getting a replacement from Nissan (as its part of the whole suspention and not sold seperately) so I need to go to a store to get a replacement bolt now.

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

tjlazer

6 point sockets saved the day. All is good!

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2009 370Z Monterey Blue,Nismo Conversion,RE-11's, K&N Typhoon intakes,Blue Kickplates,Homelink,FI 18" CBE,ERZ HFCs,Hotchkis sways, Swift Spec-R, EVO-R Highwing, UPREV

Sidz

Thank you OP for this post. Printed it . Followed it. 4-5 hours later- SITTING ON COILOVERS!

This could not have been more to the point and easy to follow. I had no idea what the suspension looked like in detail prior to this and after doing the fronts the back were self explanatory per this DIY.

THANK YOU!

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No fairlady here

VincentLe

how the hell do i get that 19mm bolt off in the front... tried many things it is on super tight

Alkatraz

Breaker Bar?

VincentLe

yeah tried, i had an 18in one.. i think that shoulda been good enough.. are u suppose to hold the nut behind that bolt to get it loosen? or can u just loosen it without having to hold behind it?

jcosta79

PB Blaster. Spray it on and go eat a sandwich. Then try again.

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2012 PW NISMO #0559 - GT Spec Brace Kit - Swift Springs - ARK TP & Invidia CBE K&N Intake - UpRev Tune - 15mm Z1 Spacers & Studs - StopTech Slotted Rotors & SS Lines - ZSpeed CMAK with Stage 2 Clutch and Lightweight Flywheel

azn370z

You don't need to hold the bolt but it doesn't hurt to place a wrench over it. If you have a pipe, slide it over the breaker bar. I placed my floor jack handle over my breaker bar.

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2010 k23
H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts

VincentLe

going to try again later this week, and are the coilovers have the right preload from factory alredy? or do u need to do it yourself?

damian_mb

Got my coils in and for the life of my I could not get my front end links to come loose from the strut. Had to remove the sway bar support brackets and voila it dropped like a dead bird from the sky and the bolt slide right out from the strut.

Suggestion to remove the sway bar and you can skip the endlink nut removal and the bolt should slide right out. My cordless impact worked like a champ!

Rears took my about an hour because I was being anal about it, easy as cake!

NFSZ86

That's nice il be doing this pretty soon =)

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2010 Nissan 370Z Touring, Sport Pkg 6MT Navi,

TreeSemdyZee

I installed Nismo S-Tune fronts and SPL Pro link endlinks and now I'm getting a lot of squeaking and some banging also.

Any ideas what it could be? Pre-load on the end links?

I spent all day yesterday doing this and now it sounds like butt.

Hopefully someone has some insight.


Update: YEAHHHHH! Before I left for church this morning, I sprayed some penetrating oil on one of the end links. Squeak went away. As I drove around the clunking got worse. Once I got home I put it on ramps and saw that one of the end links was badly crooked. Enough that there probably wasn't much movement possible. I also saw that the link on the other side was quite crooked against the sway bar, so I pulled that one out and extended it so it was parallel. Clunk and squeaking are now gone.