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DIY: Valentine 1 HardWire (pix heavy)

I know I know, there are 13,000 threads on how to hard wire these things in. This is partially a log for myself, as well as to help anyone who

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Old 03-02-2010, 07:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cool DIY: Valentine 1 HardWire (pix heavy)

I know I know, there are 13,000 threads on how to hard wire these things in. This is partially a log for myself, as well as to help anyone who had to try and find all the information between each of those threads just to get it working right.

So I called v1, asked for a refurb as MANY formus said to do. Unlike others they told me they had a refurb in stock and sent it right away. $370.41 shipped, so ~10% off, not bad.

Parts:
Valentine 1 $370.41
Hardwire kit (included with v1)
Mini Add-A-Line (AutoZone part#: 032416) $7.41
countryjoycrafts Z v1 stationary mount $25.00 (used)
15 mini-fuse < $1.00
Cap Screw Socket (5mm x 20mm) to fix countryjoycrafts 3/4" mount $.66

Tools:
Phillips & Straight screw driver
12mm Socket
#20 star bit (not sure the actual name)
References:
Fuse tap: Easy & Clean Radar Install
AK370Z's Escort Install: DIY:REAR Fog Light install with New harness for US spec 370Z + Radar hardwire w/pics
Semtex's Install: DIY: Blinder installation and radar detector hardwire
jik head's Remove Rear View Mirror: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tallation.html
Install:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
To start, I got the Z mount for the V1 off of another forum for half price. It was from a G37 owner who said it didn't fit his car, but it would a 370z. Well, although I thought that could be wrong, at half price I did it anyways. Well, I was wrong, it didn't fit. But with new bolts (see parts) and a dremel, you can make anything happen. The screws I got were longer, but didn't have the correct thread count. They only went in a little bit, but it was enough to make it work. See picture!

1. Remove the rear-view mirror (see references). This will make running the cable easier.
2. Now with the rear view mirror gone, run the phone cable up to the head liner and to the driver side A pillar.


You want your cable to go PAST the rear view mirror cable (homelink) power cable, and under it.

3. Attach your v1 mount to the rear view mirror. In my case if you bought the one that is too small, some m5 replacements that are longer are ~.66$ at Home Depot. Although there is still a gap, its functional, and no one ever sees back there.



(notice how i dremeled the curve out a little on the bottom, and have longer screws.
4. Re-attach the rear view mirror, and when putting the black plastic cable management piece back on, run your phone cable the same way the homelink cable is.

5. Now, slightly detach your a-pillar, you can do this with your hands, just grab and tug/rock it, you only need a little clearance. Run your cable to the weather stripping.

6. With a flat head, run your cable down the weather stripping to the bottom corner molding.



7. Remove this bottom corner molding, there is a plastic type nut by the clutch, then it has 2 clips that pop off just by tugging. You have to detach the door sill plastic piece from this corner piece to get it free.

8. I mounted my hardwire kit on a piece of white plastic above the fuse box by the feet. There is enough room there so it is out of the way, yet still accessible.

9. Mount the piece, and run your phone cable behind all of the wiring there to the cylinder.

10. Run your ground wire the same way the phone cable is, and there is a bolt that can be used as a ground. You will have to expand the prong on the ground wire, but no biggy. Bolt is a size 12mm.


11. Cut the end off of the red cable from the hardwire kit, it is not needed.

12. With fuse add-a-line kit, put the 2 fuse in the top, section by the wire that comes off, and now crimp the end of the wire to the red wire from the hardwire kit.

13. Remove the 15 mini-fuse from the right side of the fuse box; it should be the 5th down (cigarette lighter). Put in your add-a-line kit so the wire goes to the LEFT.

14. Turn on the car (acc), and your radar should start up. If it doesn't, check your fuse is in, not blown, in the correct spot, and not with the cable going to the clutch.
15. Remove your add-a-line kit, and add put a 15 mini-fuse in the bottom spot of the add-a-line kit. Plug the kit back in, and put everything back on, you’re done!




Finished Product:


Last edited by rarwz; 03-03-2010 at 09:06 AM. Reason: added $ to prices, changed to photobucket to have pix inline
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't think any DIY's are discouraged, nice write up.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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update to use photobucket so the pix are inline and this is *actually* useful.
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the write up! You just made my install real easy...
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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your feet looks like you got like 5 people working in tight space.
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Will this install be useful for Any detector, or is it pretty native to just the V1?
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
your feet looks like you got like 5 people working in tight space.
It was raining out for the 2nd half of the install, and working with that fuse panel area w/ the door closed is pretty difficult.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XwChriswX View Post
Will this install be useful for Any detector, or is it pretty native to just the V1?
Really the only difference between v1 and any other detector when hardwiring is the "inbetween" piece. They always have 1 ground and 1 power that can be connected to the same exact spots, and they always end in something that goes to the detector (rj-11 in most cases). The inbetween in this case was the little cylinder. My last detector was a beltronic, and it had a mute button, so i would have mounted that in an easy accessible place. All the connection points and spots to run cable to hide it are the same though
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:39 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks for the DIY! I used it on my install, and it made it quick and easy
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:42 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarwz View Post
Really the only difference between v1 and any other detector when hardwiring is the "inbetween" piece. They always have 1 ground and 1 power that can be connected to the same exact spots, and they always end in something that goes to the detector (rj-11 in most cases). The inbetween in this case was the little cylinder. My last detector was a beltronic, and it had a mute button, so i would have mounted that in an easy accessible place. All the connection points and spots to run cable to hide it are the same though
Awesome, I'm looking at either the V1 or the 9500xi... Not 100% sure which one to go with yet. So I'll be using this as the basis of whichever install I go with.
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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OP, awesome contribution to the forum and +rep provided. But, why not just use invisicord? Much easier for us touring guys.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:36 AM   #11 (permalink)
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v1 has a 2 (amp?) fuse, and I feel alot safer having a 400$ device on its own fuse from the factory than on whatever the line is coming down teh pipes (5, 15?)
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:25 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Plus I also installed the remote display, so I needed to run the wires anyways.

The only thing I did different was ground it on the bolt that holds the fuse box.
It's a little smaller, so it was an easier fit.
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I know this will benefit 370z non-touring users, but any reason why you didnt tap into the power from the Auto-dimming mirror? (i.e. invisicord?)
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:55 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvinmathew88 View Post
I know this will benefit 370z non-touring users, but any reason why you didnt tap into the power from the Auto-dimming mirror? (i.e. invisicord?)
Both two posts above you just answered that very same question.
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Good lookin out!
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