DIY: Oil Cooler Installation on a Nismo (Damper Included!) - vipor

Baer383

If you are talking to me then it doesn't really matter but you must get either a pusher fan or a puller, pusher goes in front puller goes in the back.

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

Dustin@Z1

Depending on how you position the core, you will most likely have to do a "Pusher" style fan. Keep in mind, the small the fan diameter (for the most part) the thicker the fan.

martin82

Dustin, can you email me the new installation manual for a 2012 with stock cooler? Thanks! martin.ccpi@gmail.com

Calvin

What did you end up doing instead of zip tieing the hoses?

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Dustin@Z1

Zip tieing seems to be the most cost efficient method. However, a few companies do make special billet aluminum brackets that help to space oil cooler lines apart evenly. I cannot find any at the moment, but they do exist. They use allen head style bolts to secure the brackets to the lines. They can be expensive, but are much nicer and make for a much cleaner install.

Calvin

ooo thank you! haha if you do find where I can get these brackets please lmk!

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spearfish25

Unless you're really worried about showing off your car from underneath or with the front fascia removed, I strongly suggest you just wrap the lines in heater hose and zip tie. Spend your hard earned money on more meaningful things.

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2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

Calvin

well mine is currently zip tied near the front sway bars, and i was worried about it hitting. then again i just raised up my car so it shouldn't be a problem, was just worried of it smacking back and fourth on the ground cause of the height of my car -__- .

lol thanks xP

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Compdoc777

Thanks for the write up, I'll be installing mine this weekend I got the 24 row, but found a used 34 row for $90 Setrab. Going to send the $238 buggar back!

Can't believe they don't have these standard.

anhdat503

i will do it one next thank for sharing it

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Injen Intakes*HKS Hi-Power Ti Exhaust*Tein Lowering*Stillen Sway Bars*SPC Front & Rear*Black Door Handle*BlackOut TailLights*Nismo CF Shift Knob*CF Hood Struts*CF Cubby Door*CF Shifter Trim*CF Radiator Cover*CF Brake Fluid Cover & Battery Cover

olddudesrule

Just finished the install of the Z1 Motorsports oil cooler kit (25 row Setrab w/ Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate). Overall, the install took me @ 4 hours start to finish, but I'm new to the car, and I generally read and reread the instructions. I didn't take any pictures because it pretty much mirrored the DYI already on here.

Went pretty smoothly, and per the DYI's I've seen, with just a couple of minor issues, specifically related to the 2012's and their factory oil cooler sandwich plate. The instructions from Z1 cover the difference in sandwich plate orientation (fittings come out @ 7:00 vice 10:00 when mounted), but in just a small section. I actually had to have my cooler line come in from two different angles (still merging at 7:00 on the plate) so that I could get the filter in there. Also, I chose to use the smaller (stock sized) filter, as opposed to the newer Purolater L14610 (stock sized in the L14612) because there just wasn't enough room for the larger filter. With the new factory oil cooler (water cooled), and the Mocal sandwich plate on there, there is little room for the bigger filter. I think I could have squeezed it in there, with the end of the bigger filter about 1/4" from the frame rail, but said "**** it" and went with the smaller filter.

Other than that issue, the only dig on the instructions is that the cooler line routing pics are from an older model, and with the 2012+, you'll have to find the best way to run yours. I ended up cutting a small piece of the hard plastic plate just under and right of the coolant bottle to run the lines up and over the frame rail, and down to the sandwich plate.

Lastly, since I have a Nismo, I needed to flip the front damper rod, but I also added the extra step of flipping the mounting plates too, so the writing on the damper sticker is face up. The kit came with four 1/8" washers to push the damper out forward a bit to clear the cooler, but I needed to add another 1/8"-1/4" to get sufficient clearance. Just to be safe, I also added some rubber fuel hose, two 1" sections, around the damper bar at the edges of the cooler to ensure the bar remains off the cooler fins.

Oh yea, the cooler mounting holes at the bottom, the right one specifically, needed to be elongated to allow me to get to the bolt hole. No biggie, but another mod needing attention.

Overall, I'm pleased so far. Have just started it and let it run a couple of times to check for leaks before I put the under tray back on. No leaks, but you are adding another five points of failure to the oil cooling system (two connections at the cooler, two at the Mocal sandwich plate, and the Mocal sandwich plate against the factory plate. This makes me leary, and I'll be keeping an eye on it.

I'll add a post after I've gotten a chance to see the difference in oil temps. We're already hovering @ 100+ here in Phoenix, so it's gonna be needed....