Hi ya Rusty,

Wouldn't the Anti-seize be detrimental to even polyurethane? I'm assuming Whiteline and SPL are both poly.

Are you worried about corrosion in the subframe or for eas of install as a lubricant?

Either way, I think White Lithium grease would be safer on the poly and still provide anti-rust properties.

zz

The SPL bushing is solid aluminum. The Whiteline is poly. I haven't seen any reports of anti-seize being bad on poly. I use the anti-seize for installation of the bushings. I know you won't get far trying to install a bushing dry.

Rubber or poly, may want to use dielectric grease...but as Rusty states, haven’t seen issues with anti-seize compound on rubber. :ugh2:

Right. Forgot SPL is solid Al. I would definitely use anti-seize.

I agree, you have to use something. Even Butter, if that's all you got.:rofl2:

:tup:

After having done a few bushings. I would rather do solid bushings then poly bushings. The poly bushings like to squeeze out in the middle when pressing them in.

Are you talking just the diff or all around on suspension where rubber exists?

So my understanding with solid bushings, you will feel and hear the vibrations more pronounced? What's you experience?

zz

The aftermarket poly diff bushings likes to squeeze out.

I really don't notice that much difference with the solid diff bushings until I installed the solid sub-frame bushings. With the rest of the SPL suspension bushings. You pick up a little bit of noise. (I have earing aids) But the suspension works so much better.

Just a heads up for those searching for flapper wheels - they are readily available from Amazon. Lots and lots of vendors. Search for "flap wheels" or "flap wheel sander".

I got a 12 pack of different grits for just over $15. Worth every single penny. And a HUGE thank you to Rusty for this advice in the first instance. After using the flapper wheels (I went through 2), and a decent amount of anti-seize, my solid SPL bushing went in super easy.

Ok so removal complete and Whiteline bushing in.

1. Used the 2" hole saw but started running into the center boss of the OE bushing. I was probably on an angle due to the size of my drill. Punched through a few times with a screwdriver and it came out no problem.

2. Instead of cutting all the way through the outer portion of the OE metal portion of the bushing I did one full depth cut to the subframe bore nd another partial. I then banged a screw driver between the subframe bore and outer portion of the OE bushing which folded making a tab. I was them able to use a screwdriver to collapse (pull in making the diameter smaller) the outer portion and pull out by hand. Think about how a snap ring works, same idea.

3. Used the flap wheel which worked amazing to smooth the subframe bore.

4. Lubed the bore and whiteline bushing with anti-seize and pressed in with an 8 Ton bottle jack from HFT which I already had on hand. It fits perfectly between the bushing and forward section of the subframe. I orientated the base at the bushing and ram toward the subframe. Less than 1 minute to push it in, zero bulging and other wise no drama. I tapped it with an 8 lb. hammer until the front of the bushing was even with the subframe bore. If it needs adjustment it will be easily pulled by the nut connecting it to the differential cover after the front two bolts are in for static orientation.

Thanks to Rusty for the heads up on the deep hole saw and flap wheel.

What a mess using the hole saw which required lube as to not stall my 120V Dewalt drill. Had to stop on several occasions to let the drill cool off as well as the OE bushing as when the rubber heats up, even with lube it begins to grab, stall down the drill and make tons of nasty rubber smelling smoke due to the friction.

My 120v Milwaukee 1/2" Magnum Hole Shooter chews right through the bushing. :D

Did the bushing squirt at you when you started to cut? :rofl2:

I think part of the problem was the angle my drill was out due to working room. It was starting to cut into the center metal bolt hole. :icon14:

No I heeded the advice to drill the bushing before doing any hole sawing. I put rags over the area as well.

Interestingly enough fluid came out of both sections even though I had dried and burnt fluid on the driver side exhaust. No huge staining down the cover like pictures I'd seen though. Even through I have a cover brace the whiteline's further solidified upshift and downshift action so it was worth all the effort. :tup:

Anti-seize = lubricant. For urethane or polyurethane use silicone grease.

Freezing and grease will make the install go smoothly and if need be disassembly if you screw it up.

Just completed this R&R project. My two cents:
1. I used the puller tool from Z1. It is heavy-duty and well designed...but damn that OEM bushing is stubborn! I was using a 20" breaker bar, pushing it with my leg since I lack the upper body strength to develop enough torque. It took me over an hour just to remove the outer race of the OEM bushing. I would push the breaker bar about 30 degrees with my leg then a friend would reposition the socket and I'd push again. Repeat a billion times. Eventually, though the bushing came out. Total tortoise and the hare situation.
2. Rusty is a god for suggesting the flapper wheel. Easy peasy, with awesome results.
3. New Whiteline bushing went in easily using the Z1 tool. Was able to get it in simply with my ratchet wrench. Note that the Whiteline bushing comes with its own lubricant (I think it's silicone). So no need to stress about what kind of "anti-seize" stuff to purchase.
4. I did find that the connectors on the two sensor wires on the diff were going to be a bit balky, and even after disconnecting them you would still have to pry the wire off the frame at two points. I found it was much, much easier to simply pull out the sensors where they meet the diff. Each is held in by one cap bolt. Simple to pull those bolts and remove the sensors, leaving all the wiring in place on the frame.
5. Don't forget to buy a new exhaust gasket for reinstallation of the exhaust assembly.
Cheers!