DIY: Removing the high mount Third Brake Light (rattle in rear hatch)

SG4247 · 07-21-2018, 08:25 PM

So, after reading all the WEB has to offer on the removal of the third high mount brake light assembly, and not really having a good grasp on the task from the information available, I decided to tackle this on my own.

My third brake light assembly made an extremely annoying clicking noise that I could no longer tolerate. After several months of trial and error, I decided to just take the whole dang lamp out. Driving the car after removal of the lamp assy, confirmed the rattle/clicking was absent!

My method is VERY EASY, no reason for the average guy not to attempt this.

First step is to remove the interior plastic on the inside of the rear hatch. This is a fairly straight forward effort, that is covered is several other posts. No need to show that again.

Now, I started by placing no-stick plastic tape on the rear hatch as close to the brake light lens edge as possible. Use multiple layers of tape to protect your paint! The lens is sealed onto the rear hatch surface with an adhesive seal. Just like your front windshield, it is glued in. That seal first needs to be broken.

Pic1.jpg

I went to O’Reilly and got a set of plastic wedge interior tools for like $15. These work perfect for this job! They are orange and black.

I used the orange tool as shown to work along the bottom of the lens to penetrate the seal. Once I am satisfied the seal is broken, remove the lamp power connector and the 10mm nut on the stud from the inside of the rear hatch.

Pic2.jpg

Next, I carefully used all four of the wedge tools to disable the five plastic catch points on the lens. You can feel them un-latch with the tools. Gently pry each tool to separate the seal, and unlock each latch. When you see an 1/8" gap between the lens and the hatch surface - it is free.

Pic3.jpg

Then I continue to separate the seal and latch and gently rotate the bottom of the lens "up" as shown.

Pic4.jpg

Pic5.jpg

Now, carefully remove the lens from the rear hatch.

Pic6.jpg

Note the five latch windows on the lens and the black seal material. These are the catch lock windows that we were disabling with the wedge tools. Because we rotated the lens "up", the top five catch windows - were not a factor in the lens removal.

Pic7.jpg

So, now we are left with this: You can see the LEDs and the housing just sitting there waiting...

Pic8.jpg

Do not remove the tape yet, in fact, you might want to add some more tape for the next step!

Next, I took my needle nose pliers and carefully bent the two black metal retainer tabs down/up slightly. There are two tabs on the left and two on the right. These are used to retain the LED housing against the inside of the hatch surface. They will not fit through the hatch lens opening for removal, without being bent inward slightly. This is very easy, bend them all just enough to fit through the opening in the hatch.

Pic10.jpg

Pic9.jpg

Now, with the hatch open, use one hand to push the housing out, and use the other hand to guide the LED housing through the opening. Be careful to negotiate the grey plastic legs on the ends of the housing, out of the opening first.

Pic11.jpg

Once the housing is out, you can celebrate and have a beer (or two)!

Next, I removed the plastic tape and used Turtle Wax "Bug and Tar" remover to remove the residual black tar from the hatch opening.... NOT EVEN A MICROSCOPIC SCRATCH IN THE PAINT!

Pic12.jpg

Do not be tempted to use any metal tools (except for the needle nose pliers) on this job or you will damage the paint.

ALSO, no tabs or damage was found on my lens or housing. I couldn't be happier!

babyzilla · 02-12-2022, 09:42 PM

Thanks for the write up. Just take make sure I understand this....this is what you have to do to replace any burnt bulbs from this third hatch brake light? I just noticed a couple were out today and I had a feeling this was going to be a PITA.

1cleans13 · 10-07-2022, 11:01 AM

my issue with this is that I cant get the lamp to sit flush when reinstalling it. Both corners stick up a bit. Has anyone ever had this issue before?

SeeThruHead · 10-07-2022, 11:11 AM

show a damn picture of the problem ffs

07-21-2018, 08:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
SG4247 Track Member Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: OKC Posts: 786 Drives: 2010 touring Rep Power: 7842	DIY: Removing the high mount Third Brake Light (rattle in rear hatch) So, after reading all the WEB has to offer on the removal of the third high mount brake light assembly, and not really having a good grasp on the task from the information available, I decided to tackle this on my own. My third brake light assembly made an extremely annoying clicking noise that I could no longer tolerate. After several months of trial and error, I decided to just take the whole dang lamp out. Driving the car after removal of the lamp assy, confirmed the rattle/clicking was absent! My method is VERY EASY, no reason for the average guy not to attempt this. First step is to remove the interior plastic on the inside of the rear hatch. This is a fairly straight forward effort, that is covered is several other posts. No need to show that again. Now, I started by placing no-stick plastic tape on the rear hatch as close to the brake light lens edge as possible. Use multiple layers of tape to protect your paint! The lens is sealed onto the rear hatch surface with an adhesive seal. Just like your front windshield, it is glued in. That seal first needs to be broken. Pic1.jpg I went to O’Reilly and got a set of plastic wedge interior tools for like $15. These work perfect for this job! They are orange and black. I used the orange tool as shown to work along the bottom of the lens to penetrate the seal. Once I am satisfied the seal is broken, remove the lamp power connector and the 10mm nut on the stud from the inside of the rear hatch. Pic2.jpg Next, I carefully used all four of the wedge tools to disable the five plastic catch points on the lens. You can feel them un-latch with the tools. Gently pry each tool to separate the seal, and unlock each latch. When you see an 1/8" gap between the lens and the hatch surface - it is free. Pic3.jpg Then I continue to separate the seal and latch and gently rotate the bottom of the lens "up" as shown. Pic4.jpg Pic5.jpg Now, carefully remove the lens from the rear hatch. Pic6.jpg Note the five latch windows on the lens and the black seal material. These are the catch lock windows that we were disabling with the wedge tools. Because we rotated the lens "up", the top five catch windows - were not a factor in the lens removal. Pic7.jpg So, now we are left with this: You can see the LEDs and the housing just sitting there waiting... Pic8.jpg Do not remove the tape yet, in fact, you might want to add some more tape for the next step! Next, I took my needle nose pliers and carefully bent the two black metal retainer tabs down/up slightly. There are two tabs on the left and two on the right. These are used to retain the LED housing against the inside of the hatch surface. They will not fit through the hatch lens opening for removal, without being bent inward slightly. This is very easy, bend them all just enough to fit through the opening in the hatch. Pic10.jpg Pic9.jpg Now, with the hatch open, use one hand to push the housing out, and use the other hand to guide the LED housing through the opening. Be careful to negotiate the grey plastic legs on the ends of the housing, out of the opening first. Pic11.jpg Once the housing is out, you can celebrate and have a beer (or two)! Next, I removed the plastic tape and used Turtle Wax "Bug and Tar" remover to remove the residual black tar from the hatch opening.... NOT EVEN A MICROSCOPIC SCRATCH IN THE PAINT! Pic12.jpg Do not be tempted to use any metal tools (except for the needle nose pliers) on this job or you will damage the paint. ALSO, no tabs or damage was found on my lens or housing. I couldn't be happier! Last edited by SG4247; 07-24-2018 at 06:58 PM.

10-07-2022, 11:01 AM	#3 (permalink)
1cleans13 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Flow-Ridah Posts: 182 Drives: 11 NISMO/15 GX460 Rep Power: 2050	my issue with this is that I cant get the lamp to sit flush when reinstalling it. Both corners stick up a bit. Has anyone ever had this issue before? __________________ _____________________________________________ *2011 NISMO 370Z (PW)* 50% Llumar tint- LED bulbs everywhere- JDM emblem- Phillips LED DRL- 6K HID- NISMO TI shift knob - SWIFT SPEC R - H&R spacers

10-07-2022, 11:11 AM	#4 (permalink)
SeeThruHead Track Member Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: Toronto Posts: 716 Drives: Red '18 Sport Manual Rep Power: 23498	show a damn picture of the problem ffs __________________ My Build thread STH Build Plan Thread Images too big fix here

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02-12-2022, 09:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
babyzilla Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Maryland Posts: 487 Drives: 15 Nismo Tech 6MT Rep Power: 23631	Thanks for the write up. Just take make sure I understand this....this is what you have to do to replace any burnt bulbs from this third hatch brake light? I just noticed a couple were out today and I had a feeling this was going to be a PITA.