DIY - Complete Brake Rebuild F&R

B&W_Evader · 02-08-2016, 10:58 AM

The final steps after installation... Bed your brakes. I have a nice stretch of highway that's usually deserted where I can get mine nice and hot. Make a U-turn and then let them cool for about 10 minutes at highway speed while I drive home. I can do the whole thing without ever having the car come to a complete stop. I think this is optimal.

Finally... Brake fluid will eat your paint! I like to wash and wax after handling brake fluid around the car. Call me paranoid but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

JARblue · 02-08-2016, 11:21 AM

Very nice write up! I am looking to do this in the near future. Thank you

GaleForce · 02-08-2016, 12:23 PM

Thanks for taking the time to share. Rep'd for your hard work.

RN SHARK · 02-08-2016, 12:30 PM

Btw, Carbotech does not recommend using backing plates of any kind on their pads. If in doubt, give em a call. Their number is on the box. And their pads come with specific bedding instructions.

Jsolo · 02-08-2016, 01:47 PM

For bleeding/flushing, i've found the motive power bleeder to be best. It pressurizes the brake reservoir, you then just need to go around each wheel and open the bleeder screw. Wait til new fluid comes out then close, move on to the next.

JARblue · 02-08-2016, 02:29 PM

I love one-man brake jobs with my Motive Power Bleeder

Zbrah · 02-08-2016, 03:41 PM

Thanks for the DIY.

RN SHARK · 02-15-2016, 12:57 AM

How often should you do the caliper seal kit? Replace the rubber boots and whatnot?

B&W_Evader · 02-22-2016, 11:01 AM

If the boots are torn they should be replaced. I see you have carbotech brakes. There's been at least one torn both times I've changed pads. BTW, I run XP8s as a daily driver with occasional canyon runs so they get a lot of miles and do get hot once in a while. You could probably get away with just doing the boots but why take the chance of getting crud in the seal or damaging it.

Knockoutpie · 02-10-2017, 04:28 PM

A+ work. Thanks!

02-08-2016, 11:21 AM	#17 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Very nice write up! I am looking to do this in the near future. Thank you __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

02-08-2016, 12:23 PM	#18 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Thanks for taking the time to share. Rep'd for your hard work. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

02-08-2016, 12:30 PM	#19 (permalink)
RN SHARK Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wake Forest, NC Age: 44 Posts: 618 Drives: 09 370Z, 14 SRT GC Rep Power: 35	Btw, Carbotech does not recommend using backing plates of any kind on their pads. If in doubt, give em a call. Their number is on the box. And their pads come with specific bedding instructions. __________________ ___________ '09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare '14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S Last edited by RN SHARK; 02-08-2016 at 12:33 PM.

02-08-2016, 01:47 PM	#20 (permalink)
Jsolo Track Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: chicago Posts: 783 Drives: '12 G37 6MT Rep Power: 14	For bleeding/flushing, i've found the motive power bleeder to be best. It pressurizes the brake reservoir, you then just need to go around each wheel and open the bleeder screw. Wait til new fluid comes out then close, move on to the next. wideglideleon likes this. __________________ G37S Sedan 6MT, Eibach swaybars, Invidia Exhaust, Weaker Clutch Pedal Spring For sale links

02-08-2016, 02:29 PM	#21 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	I love one-man brake jobs with my Motive Power Bleeder __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

02-08-2016, 03:41 PM	#22 (permalink)
Zbrah A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: The370Z.com Posts: 4,956 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 5452	Thanks for the DIY. __________________

02-15-2016, 12:57 AM	#23 (permalink)
RN SHARK Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Wake Forest, NC Age: 44 Posts: 618 Drives: 09 370Z, 14 SRT GC Rep Power: 35	How often should you do the caliper seal kit? Replace the rubber boots and whatnot? __________________ ___________ '09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare '14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S

02-22-2016, 11:01 AM	#24 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 387	If the boots are torn they should be replaced. I see you have carbotech brakes. There's been at least one torn both times I've changed pads. BTW, I run XP8s as a daily driver with occasional canyon runs so they get a lot of miles and do get hot once in a while. You could probably get away with just doing the boots but why take the chance of getting crud in the seal or damaging it. __________________ \|RIP\|6spd-sport\|OSG-LSD\|XP8\|RBF600\|Eibach Sways\|RE-71R\|FI-34Row\|Gen3-CAI\|Yaw P.S.\|

02-10-2017, 04:28 PM	#25 (permalink)
Knockoutpie Base Member Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Gilbert Arizona Posts: 93 Drives: 2013 370z Sport Rep Power: 9	A+ work. Thanks!

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